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<p>I just bought a Rolleiflex 3.5 Tessar yesterday and the only problem is that there is a notch that resets the film counter and it has worn down so the counter is not reset between each roll. I want to try and sauter a little silver on it so it triggers the counter. Is it possible for anyone to maybe post a photo of the piece so I know roughly how to large to make it? Or if anyone has any other ideas that'd be great too. Thanks!</p>

<p>Hello there,<br>

I shot some Efke 25 speed film in my epic stylus and as the range begins at iso 50 so I was wondering what the camera would have defaulted to? I am hoping ISO 50 so I don't have to push the film too much, but if anyone knows let me know.<br>

Thanks!<br>

Tom</p>

<p>Any older TLR wide open will do some funky things. I had a Super Ricoh for a while, 30 or 40 USD, and very small. http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmccabe/637258019/in/photostream/<br>

I also shot with a Yashica D for a few months, shot about 50 rolls through it. Runs around $100 USD. Very sharp stopped down and probably the look you are looking for wide open.<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmccabe/3221352039/in/set-72157605265052404/<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tmccabe/3222204484/in/set-72157605265052404/<br>

But, a Holga or a Diana or something would probably do as well.</p>

 

<p>Hello there,<br>

I have a leitz 50mm F/2 Summar that I would like to take apart and clean. There are some huge chunks/haze in there and would love to get it out. I'm not worried about damaging it as it only cost me 40 dollars and I don't mind the haze, but that debris has to go.<br>

Is it possible to dismantle from the front? I'm aware of the aperture blades all coming apart. Screws are stripped badly in the back, so I won't be able to take it apart from there.<br>

Also any good solutions for taking care of fungus? I read somewhere soaking the elements in vinegar overnight? But I could be horrendously wrong. Thanks for your time.</p>

 

I'm going to Bangkok in two weeks and was just curious to as if I could buy/develop 120 film in Bangkok? If so, I

wouldn't buy my entire stash here and would buy it there as it would be presumably cheaper. Has anyone been there

recently and can confirm the availability of 120, or 220 film for that matter? Locations? Thanks!

Ahhh, the bellows, that is a splendid idea! My neighbor is a welder/handy man, so

that's a definite possibility!

Haha, that would have been embarrassing. I always wondering what was so difficult about using it with leaf-shutter lenses, haha, it's quite obvious now that I think about it.

Ahh right, haha, silly me.

What about using an extension tube instead of a body cap? Would this allow the shutter to be fired without a lens attached?

I know a focal-plane shutter would be better, but I just wanted to know if it's possible on a bronica sqai. Does the mirror on a hasselblad fire without a lens attached?

Hey there, I have an SQ-Ai and an extra 80PS lens. Is there any way to use the

'plunger' method to make a tilt shift lens? Does the 1/500 default speed still

work on the Sq-ai or just the Sq-a? I don't need a lot of movement, but I would

consider buying a LF lens if this would work. I am assuming I would use a

Bronica body cap, attach the end of a plunger, then a lens. The problem I

suppose is using the electrical contacts to fire the shutter? Will even the

default 1/500 speed work without a lens really being "attached"? Thanks for any

input

Thank you so much for all your answers. I think bringing a spare bronica body with a lens permanently attached is a good idea. I will bring a fuji 645 or a digital P&S for when I don't want to carry that load.

 

Fredrik, do you have a flickr account or a portfolio of your images, I Would be super interested in checking it out,

 

Thanks

I suppose I will have to see how I enjoy using a MF rangefinder. If I do enjoy the fuji, I will

pick up mamiya 7 or 6 before I leave and take those two cameras. Any other thoughts

regarding this matter? Is an MF SLR going to be too cumbersome to take with me? I do use

the 80mm about 90 percent of the time, but the other 10 percent I really appreciate when

I have the 50 or 150 with me. I suppose I could get over this.

 

Also, I was wondering how to take care of the film. I am going to shoot a lot obviously,

would it be wise to get the negs developed every two weeks, then mail the negs back

home and keep a burnt cd with me or vice versa? Any thoughts?

Im leaning towards the bronica sqai and the fuji GS645S so far. Anyone had any trouble with battery-operated cameras dying in a humid environment?

Hey there, I have just a few questions regarding travel and medium format

cameras. I am going backpacking for a few months throughout indonesia. I was

going to bring my bronica Sq-ai with 50mm,80mm,150mm lenses and an extra back.

I was thinking of bringing a MF rangefinder along with me for backup. I

originally decided on a fuji gs645s (the 60mm version) as they are relatively

cheap (400 used). I then came across the mamiya 6 and 7, which, seem to be the

more popular choice amongst these forums, although they are expensive. I am

going to have a large backpack with all my camping/living gear, with a daybag

(dakine sequence) rolled up w/o gear in my big bag, then grab whatever gear I

need from my big bag and put it into the sequence for the day).I have a few

questions regarding reliability on all of the above cameras:

 

Has anyone *actually* traveled with a Bronica Sq-ai and, if so, how did it hold up?

 

What are the body size differences between the fuji 645 RF and the mamiya 6 and

7? Is the folding lens mount really make that big of a difference?

 

For reliability, would a recently CLA'd hasselblad be a better option than the

bronica? Has anyone had any problems with the battery operated bronica?

 

I am set on MF because that is what I enjoy shooting (and I want to use only 1

type of film), and I am set on having a main camera with a WLF, again, because

of enjoyment.

 

Finally, would bringing an extra Sq-ai body as the backup be reasonable? Instead

of two different systems? I really prefer shooting from the waistlevel position

and am quite fond of my bronica (I've tried hasselblad and didn't enjoy the

feel/ergonomics quite as much), but strictly for reliability issues, I would

consider one.

 

Sq-ai w/ 50,80,150 and extra back, extra sq-ai body, fuji 645 rangefinder? Does

that seem like too much of a handful?

 

As money is somewhat of a limitation, I would be only bringing the hasselblad if

I did indeed purchase one. With the bronica (1 body), it would be the mamiya 7

(as they can be had for about 900 w/80mm). Apologies for the long winded and

probably jumbled question. Any past experiences or input will be greatly

appreciated! (I'm going for quality of image over portability...but no rz's or

rb's haha)

I recently purchased a D2H and tried to import the pictures using a Compact

flash reader and the computer wouldn't recognize nor import them. I tried

copying and pasting into a file on my desktop and attempted to open them into

photoshop and nothing. I shot both jpeg and raw. I put the card in my camera

again to make sure they were still there, and some frames (about 12) were

missing and replaced with a "file contains no image data" title. Any ideas to as

what my problem may be? I'm using a new laptop and have imported files from both

a d50 and a d70. Thanks!

I have the opportunity to buy a D2H for $800 Canadian and I just found a

Coolscan IV ED for $100 from a friend. I currently shoot with an F5 and prime

lenses. How would blowups to 11 by 14 compare between the 4.1 MP of the D2H and

the scanned F5 images? Is it really worth it to be shooting film still? Is the

D2H 4 MP too restricting for prints? I can't keep the F5 as it would be used to

pay off the D2H. Any thoughts? Thank you!

I have run into a very close to mint 2.8F planar, everything was just serviced

fully 3 months ago. Perfect condition. He is selling it for 1000 dollars CAN. I

know this is a good deal, just wondering how big of a difference a newer maxwell

or beattie screen makes? Also how much does it cost to get one (I can install it

myself). Im in Canada, anyone know of a place where I can get one?

Hey there, I am trying to figure out a way to be able to set the F5 so it

alternates in half stops of shutter speed and aperture instead of 1/3 stops. I

looked for custom functions but I either couldn't figure it out or it didn't

exist. Any thoughts? Thanks!

I went out to shoot today, and my flashes were misfiring. Sometimes 1 went off,

sometimes both, and quite a bit of the time neither. I am shooting with a

bronica sq-ai and F5, quantum 4's, an sb80dx and a vivitar 285 HV. The recievers

and flashes all had new batteries. The wires connecting the flash to receiver

are both new. The settings were on correctly.

 

Is there anything I can do to fix this? I was trying to research information

about re-soldering inside the quantum reciever, but I have no idea how to do that.

 

How about cleaning the contacts using rubbing alcohol, is that recommended?

 

Sometimes when I pressed the 'fire' button on the sender, one of the quantums

light like blinked instead of staying solid, so could it be a problem with the

sender?

 

Does anyone know how to replace the battery in the sender?

 

Thanks, and sorry for allll the questions!

<div></div>

Hello,

 

I was just wondering how this lense compared to the 150 f/4 ps version. I am

debating which to buy. I know the 150 ps is sharp and was just wondering how the

200 fared in this department. Thanks!

 

Tom

I shoot 35mm film and was just wondering what (in your opinions) are good and

yet not expensive flatbed scanners for negatives and slides. I was looking at

the canon canoscan 9950F, and the reviews were good. Is there anything else out

there (perhaps a bit cheaper) but not lacking in final image quality?

Thank you!

Tom

Check out www.skateperception.com. It is a pretty rad site for finding info about filming skating and what not.

Also what about the pentax 10-17 fisheye? Ive never used a pentax dslr, any comments about them?