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john_hermanson2

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Posts posted by john_hermanson2

  1. Olympus discovered that black battery caps had minute dots of black paint on the threads. This caused big electrical problems. So, since the OM-4 came out before the 2S, chrome caps first showed up as a standard "repair" item for the 4. When the 2S came out, standard equipment was chrome battery / md cap on the bottom. The 2 caps are interchangeable. It is safe to use a black cap on the md port. John, Olympus OM Service since 1977, www.zuiko.com
  2. I've serviced LOTS of OM-2 bodies and have some suggestions. All OM-2N have ALL the factory improvements that ever went into the OM-2. So, if it's a 2N, that's best. If it's a plain 2, I'd avoid low serial numbers below 300,000 serial number. OM-2 production started at 100,000 and ran up to around (approx.) 600,000 at which point it became the 2N. Oldest OM-2 (from 100,000 to 300,000) generally are unreliable and need lots of work and updates. John, Olympus OM Service since 1977, http://www.zuiko.com
  3. Most older Zuiko lenses have the production date under the focus rubber. It will show up as a stamped number like "S 5 7" . In this case S is the factory, 5 is the year 1975, 7 is the month, July. For months Oct., Nov., December, they are represented by X, Y, Z. So, "S 5 Z" production date is December 1975. New lenses may have the code on the back mount somewhere in small white letters. This coding started in 1981. Something like "FA A 9". FA is the factory, A = 1981 (B = 82, C = 83 etc.) 9 is the month, September. Hope this helps a little. John, Olympus OM Service since 1977, www.zuiko.com
  4. Looks like the shutter is firing too soon, and what your seeing is cutoff caused by the mirror not being all the way out of the way as the shutter goes by. John, Olympus OM Service since 1977, www.zuiko.com
  5. Unless your camera has been overhauled recently, it probably needs AT LEAST new foam around the back cover. Bad, old foam is probably letting light in and fogging the film. What you may be seeing is light streaking and not flares. John, Olympus OM service since 1977, www.zuiko.com
  6. As I stated in my email directly to Cale, due to design considerations, the Pen F SLR bodies were designed with the mirror NOT at a 45 degree angle. If it were designed at 45 degrees, you could focus anywhere on the screen. Therefore, focusing must be done in the center of the screen. If infinity is out (which with the 38mm lens would be around 60') my 6 month warranty will take care of it. As soon as I receive the camera back from Cale I will take care of it. I've already explained this to Cale but I thought I'd let everyone know. I am happy to stand behind my warranty (as long as no abuse has taken place). John Hermanson, factory trained Olympus service since 1977. www.zuiko.com
  7. There are about a dozen different things that can cause shutter lock in an OM-2/2N. . Start first with 2 fresh batteries of the correct type. Use silver oxide only (camera was designed around them, before the creation of alkaline or lithium cells). Use 357, SR44W, G13, MS76, KS76. You should get a steady red battery test light. If light is blinking it means batteries are weak. No light means batteries are dead. If with a steady light you still get shutter lock, you camera needs service. John. 30 years of Olympus OM Service. www.zuiko.com
  8. Clint and I were both employees of Olympus. He was in Texas, I was in Woodbury, NY. In January 07, he stopped taking in new repair work. I do not know the reason for this. I have been servicing Olympus OM since 1977 and would be happy to help you. Please see my site http://www.zuiko.com. Full overhauls M-1 through 4Ti. Lenses, Motor Drives (Nicad packs rebuilt with NiMH cells). 35RC, RD, SP, Pen F slr, Pen lenses. All work warranted 6 months. Mastercard, Visa, Check, M.O.
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