john_hermanson2
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Posts posted by john_hermanson2
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Mirror goes up, without lens, then shutter fires. With lens mounted, mirror goes up, shutter doesn't fire. Could be a defective lens that has jammed diaphragm coupling lever in the back, or if camera jams with ALL lenses, then body could have a broken spring in the mirror mechanism.
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Cleaning the focus screen is extremely hard to do without scratching it. Viewing it with an eye loupe, blowing it off with compressed air and putting it back in is the best way to avoid damage. Rubbing with any liquids and tissue will scratch it. Dunking in distilled water and blowing it off may help too. As far as yellow tint goes, though, I have never noticed that.
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Jerry Soloway who worked for UPI in the 70s / 80s used Olympus OM system exclusively. yes, it is / was a professional system.
So the question is this: Did Olympus make a 'professional' 35mm SLR, that is analogous to the Nikon F and Canon F-1?
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OM-1 thru OM-4Ti have similar mirror pads.
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Could be corroded battery contact and wire, bad meter switch (internal), or open meter movement. I've seen a lot of these recently since I started repairing them again.
Olympus 35RC by Henry Chavez, on Flickr
Untitled by Henry Chavez, on Flickr
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At this point, due to age, the nicad cells in that pack are probably dead and/or leaking. When I service a pack, I replace the nicads with NiMH. You will need the Olympus charger if you want to do things correctly imo.
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Bought a used 35 EC online. Checked that there are batteries inside. Tried pressing the shutter but it wont press all the way down. Yellow light won't light up. I read here that there is no need for batteries for the shutter to be 'functional'
Trying out film photography for the first time btw. Thank you!
EC is completely battery dependent and to do so you'll have to rig up some kind of battery adapter because the originals were mercury and had a propensity for leaking. I mean batteries were SO bad that at Olympus we'd open a brand new box of service dept. batteries and they would already be leaking in the box. That means probably the battery contacts in the camera have hidden corrosion damage, like they probably aren't even connected to the wires anymore. On the original EC button may go all the way down, shutter may make a "click" but you won't get any exposure. EC, EC2 and ECR were all dogs really. I stopped servicing them decades ago.
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hello all, I have an opportunity to buy an OM2S in very good condition. Would anyone know the approximate production date for serial number 1002933? I ask as I have read the electronics relating to battery drain were greatly improved over the life of the camera and would like to avoid an earlier one.
Thanks to all,
vince
2S was produced in the early to mid 1980's. Production date is usually in the film chamber in small white letters. EX: SUF7. SU is the factory, F is the year 1986, 7 is the month July. All 2S have battery drain similar to the early OM-4. Olympus never updated the board to reduce the drain. For longest life use silver oxide 1.55V. That is 357, S76, MS76, KS76, G-13, SR44W, 303. No alkaline (A76, LR44), no lithium CR1/3N.
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Slow speed governor is under the mirror box floor, lubing it with anything other than fine watch oil may cause additional problems.
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OM-1/1N meter will move with no battery/switch off. Set to asa 100, B and f1.8, needle will be near the center (if all the meter strings are where they should be) but of course this should not be confused with a real meter reading. It only indicates that mechanically the meter is working. Electrically the coil could be open or there could be battery corrosion, etc.
John, Camtech, www.zuiko.com
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This is a common problem in OM-2S, 3, 3Ti, 4, 4T and 4Ti. I still see a lot of them for repair.
John, www.zuiko.com
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A little TLC goes a long way with those cameras. Good luck fining one that doesn't need work. Oldest bodies are over 40 years old. Every OM-1/1N I repair gets converted to the silver oxide 1.55v battery. Battery is easy to get (357, MS76, KS76, G-13, SR44W, S76, 303). Meter failure can be cause by a half dozen different things, but everything is fixable.
John, Camtech, www.zuiko.com
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Dark spots are likely a deteriorated pentaprism, and not the focus screen. They can appear as bubbles or full black patches. Foam pressed against the prism has rotted and eaten through the prism coating. Only fix is to replace the prism.
John, www.zuiko.com
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Mirror lock can be caused by a dozen different things. First being wrong batteries, dead batteries. A constant battery check LED is first step. Blinking means batteries are wrong or weak. Silver oxide 1.55v are the only correct ones. 357 , MS76, KS76, SR44-W, G-13, S76, 303. B or battery check/reset will reset the mirror. Sometimes the magnet is bad or "open" , usually from tampering, this rips the magnet winding. Bad circuit, or misaligned, mis adjusted timing levers. Dirty magnet can cause this, thought it would be erratic and not happen every time.
John
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<p>Yes, I'm very busy with my full time job at Tamron, servicing the new VC 70-200 (A009), the new 24-70 (A007). Sorry, there's not enough OM to support a family. I do OM work on some nights and weekends. Your repair was shipped 6 weeks ago, 3/27.</p>
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<p>Bodies and lenses don't have to be used to develop defects. Depending on how lenses are stored, they can develop oily diaphragm blades, bodies will develop greasy latches which cause jamming along with rotten back foam. I see them every day. John</p>
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<p>OM-PC (40) suffers from oily magnet the same way OM-10, G, 20 do. If shutter does not fire, and inserting new batteries doesn't solve it, then the problem is oily magnet under the circuit board (not to be confused with oily OM-10 magnet that causes extended auto exposures and gross overexposure). John</p>
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<p>It's easier to just replace the element if it is still available. 2 elements glued together = a group. The coating of the lens is a separate issue from separating. If it's an Olympus OM lens, I may have the part. John</p>
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<p>Batteries like LR44 and A76 are Alkaline cells and are not equal to silver oxide. Specifically, in cameras like Olympus OM-2/2N, alkaline batteries were created after the camera was designed and cause meter error and shutter lock. John</p>
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<p>It sounds like wheh you push the rewin button in, it is not disengaging the sprocket shaft. So as you try to rewind the film, athe sprockets are being held tight by the teeth of the sprocket shaft.<br>
A common problem with the Pen slr cameras now (due to age) is the inside of the film sprocket notches breaking off. There is a metal tab inside the sprocket shaft. When this is engaged in the slot the film can wind normally. When the plastic edges of the slot break off inside the sprocket, the metal tab skips inside the shaft, allows you to wind and fire the shutter without the film moving through the camera. New sprockets are not available, I used my last new one 6 months ago. John</p>
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<p>The outer glass of the OM-3, 3Ti, 4, 4T/Ti is quite thin and often broken. Also, it sounds like one of your diopter lenses is no longer secured to its frame. This causes the lens to be skewed and cause a distorted view through the finder. Both problems can be fixed. The faster flash sync of the 4T/Ti only works with the f280 flash and many users have found the setup somewhat limited. John</p>
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<p>2N is a nice camera when set up properly but don't expect it to last long if you use it in pouring rain. John</p>
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yeah, "new" old stock with no manufacturers warranty and no repair parts available. John
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If the meter display is not changing up or down, compensation is not working. John
age of olympus OM2S
in Olympus
Posted
OM-2S was made for a very short time in the early 80s. Camera was produced for such a short time, in fact, that Olympus never released an improved circuit board for it.