jeroen_b1

I had the same problem. I opened the bottom cover to check if there is current (volt) inside the camera. If it is, then the meter is dead.

If you open the top cover you can trace the volt signal even better to the meter itself.

I replaced the dead meter with a meter from a SRT with other problems. If you search in photonet you can find some links to the SRT-101 repair manual and electric schematics.

The SRT-101 has a string that connects the shutter speed dial/film dial with the aperture ring. That string controls also the circle follower in the viewfinder. If the string is broken, the follower doesn't move anymore. The needle of the lightmeter is independent of this circle follower.

I an not sure the SRT Super also has this circle follower in the viewfinder? If it has, check the string by removing the top cover.

I have ordered a -1 diopter for my MF gear, it was one from the new serie (1000, not Vn), and it didn't fit. It did not "click" in the viewfinder but jumped back, even when pressed with much force. I tried to cut it a little smaller with a knife, but now the diopter is lost.

(the glass is still o.k, but the black frame is gone)

I will keep the lens away from the other lenses.

I have found an interesting URL:

http://www.mypentax.com/Fungus.html

hello group,

Just want to know your opinion:

I have just cleaned a MD-rokkor 50mm f/1.7 lens, there was a bit of fungus

inside. It was on the back (inside) of the rear element. I was able to dissamble

the lens very easily.

I cleaned the glass with Vodka and an old used soft towel (the ones you use for

drying the dishes). I also cleaned the opposite element inside, and the space

between the lenses (so the whole area between the lens elements). The lens

surface is still in good shape, no traces of fungus left and no damaged glass.

So now my question: is it safe to put this lens back in the closet with the

other lenses, or should I keep this one away. What is the risk other lenses will

get infected?

bye, Jeroen

Minolta 50mm f/1.4 is a great lens, but more expensive then the 50mm f/1.7. Some people claim a big difference (performance wise) with the f/1.7, but others say there performance is almost the same. So you have to see the results with your own eyes. The f/1.4 should perform a bit better with low light then the f/1.7.

The crop factor makes it a bit different: a 50mm standard lens for film is not a standard lens on digital (75mm). I would like to suggest the Minolta 24mm f/2.8, that is a nice lens, or a new Sigma 24mm f/1.8, that one is also a bit better with low light situations. Check dyxum.com for details and user reviews. 24mm will be like a 42mm lens on digital.

You can also find the cheap Minolta 28mm f/2.8 lens, but is a very ordinary lens, not that sharp, it has nice colors but a bad performance wide open. I do not recommend this lens, I had one and sold it again.

I have no digital camera, only film, but I have a 24mm f/2.8 and I like it a lot. There is a very nice lens out there, Minolta 28mm f/2, but it's hard to find and expensive.

Check www.dyxum.com , there is a huge database with lens info for prime and zoom lenses.

There are a lot of choices, the newer lenses like KM 28-75 f/2.8 are sharp and clean, the older ones like KM 28-85 f/3.5-4.5 have the "minolta colors" and a bit more character. It's about what you like in the end.

For a low light prime that is reasonble priced there is a good option: the Minolta 50mm f/1.7, sharp lens, small, and can be found cheap. But it depends what kind of lens you need, a wide angle, normal, portrait lens, or tele. The Sony alpha has a crop factor (1,5x?), so the 50mm will behave like a 75mm (portrait?) lens on digital camera.

There are good prime lenses like 28mm f/2, 35mm f/1.4 or f/2, 85mm f/1.4 but they are not cheap at all. There is also a 50mm f/1.4.

Other brands are Sigma, Tokina, Tamron, and Cosina. Don't forget, there are a lot of "bad" lenses out there on the (second hand) market, dull colors, not sharp at large apertures, build not solid enough, etc. etc.

Well, for X serie camera's, check the famous site www.rokkorfiles.com

It's not about brand, with current price-level Minolta is the one to go for. It's more about picking he right lenses, but there are also good other brand lenses. Check for example the two Minolta Manual Focus groups at Yahoo, lots of info there.

From what I know, very good performers are:

MC and MD-rokkor 50mm f/1.4, MC 58mm f/1.2, MD(rokkor) 85mm f/2, MD-rokkor 100mm f/2.5, MD(rokkor) 24mm f/2.8, but also do not forget MD-rokkor 135mm f/2.8 and MD 50mm f/1.7.

And lot's of others, for example some claim MD rokkor 135mm f/3.5 is very very sharp, and the MC 58mm f/1.4 is great for B&W. I guess the 28mm lenses are not that special, and the "slow" lenses like 45mm and 50mm f/2.

All macro's are also very good: 50mm f/3.5, 100mm f/4, 100mm f/3.5.

I don't know much about zooms because I don't care for manual focus zooms, prime lenses are more fun.

Small detail: I just have bought a XE-1 (XE-7 in USA), I just could't resist.... The cousin of the Leica R3. Last Minolta buy ever, I swear!

Well, I already corrected myself a couple of messages ago, my first message was not clear enough. I am talking about the performce of the MC lenses, not the technology. Maybe some members here have good experiences with one of these MC lenses. I myself am not a real lens tester, I don't like shooting stuff for test purpose only.

I do know the history of the Minolta lenses, from the beginning, pre-MC, MC, MD-rokkor to plain MD lenses. There is a lot written already about the performance of the MD Rokkor lenses (rokkorfiles.com, Minman site, etc.), and I guess not that much about MC lenses.

I own a Sigma 28-70 UC f/2.8-4.

Nice little lens, sharp. Some compare it's performance with the KM 28-70 f/2.8. I don't know if the chip inside the Sigma lens works with a Alpha 100 or the 5 and 7D.

hello group.

After my 3rd SRT-101 deal I am the owner of some MC lenses. I only know the

details about MD lenses, MC is all new to me.

What I have is:

- late style MC-rokkor PF 50mm f/1.7, 55mm filter

- ealy style MC-W-rokkor-HG 35mm f/2.8, 52mm filer (?), slow aperture movement

- early style MC rokkor-PF 55mm f/1.7, 52mm filter(?), a bit slow aperture movement

- early style MC-W rokkor SG 35mm f/2.8, 56mm filter (?)

Early style is metal focus ring and metal color aperture ring, late style is

rubber focus ring, black aperture ring.

My feeling tells me it's all rubbish, because of inferior coatings and the slow

aperture springs. Maybe the 35mm rokkor SG could be something?

thanks and bye, Jeroen<div></div>

Camera is back to life again! Don't know exact reason, could be moisture (I biked through the rain that evening to pick up the SRT, but I guess my camera bag must be water proof, Crumpler backpack).

I moved the aperture lever a bit by hand (the aperture of the lens was closed, so the lever probably didn't had enough power to return?), and then the camera suddenly powered on again.

Pfff --> I can live with 3 dead SRT's on the shelf, not with a dead Dynax 7 :-)

I have opened everything now on a dust-free place to get moisture out of the camera for security<div></div>

People,

I go crazy!

First my X-500 died 2-3 weeks ago, then my SRT-101 died after 5 minutes of first

use (broken string), and now my Dynax 7 is dying!

Tonight I picked up a SRT-101 (body number 4) and I used the Dynax to compare

the shutterspeed. The Dynax and SRT both worked fine. A little while ago I tried

to reset the settings on the Dynax 7 (manual focus to autofocus, and from M to A

mode) and fired a few shots.

Suddenly the camera power went off, and the lens aperture is frozen. I tried new

batteries (4 new ones in the grip), but nothing is happening.

When I press the shutter button, I can see a very dim light in the viewfinder

(all symbols the same time, but very very dim), thats all.

Anyone knows the symptoms? Can I reset the camera in some kind of way?

bye, Jeroen

Because I wanted a good working SRT and I found another very nice deal: two SRT 101 bodies with lenses and UV filters and other stuff.

One of them has a little problem, the shutter curtain sometimes doesn't close all the way (I have to check this by myself), so on photo's there are over exposed parts. Lightmeters are working fine. So now I have 3 SRT's, a good one, one with broken lightmeter and one with the shutter curtain. I think the one with the curtain could be an easy fix.

Any experience with this kind of problem. Drops of oil somewhere inside?

I checked battery voltage also under the top cover, there is 1,5 volt between ground (outside of the camera) and the two lightcells glued at the prism house.

After the lightcells there goes a wire to somewhere, can't follow it anmymore with my volt-meter.

Thanks Bob! I also have done some research, here is a nice website:

http://www.willegal.net/photo/photo-first_page.htm

and parts of the service manual can be found here:

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/repairmanuals.html

I have read somewhere I needed a flexiclamp, and all I have is an ordinary tool for waterpumps, so I have used that with reasonable result, minor scratches. They both unscrew.

The needle was not sticky, it can move freely. So it is something electrical, too much hassle. I think I will sell it again, too much work using it with an external lightmeter. It could be a nice camera for macro, with mirror lock up, don't know yet. I compared the shuttertimes with my Dynax 7, and the timing of the SRT is still very good.

Hello group,

I have a question:

I have a SRT-101 here wih a non-working light meter, the needle is al the way

up. I have measured "volt" inside the camera (under bottom cover), so the

battery is working.

I have read somewhere about a sticky needle, so I am trying to open the top cover.

It is very difficult to remove the right lever and the left flat circle plate

without damaging them.

I don't know if I have to pull or turn them like a bolt. There is no easy

movement in both parts.

Any advice? I am lost at the moment.<div></div>

About the old question, no problem, I am also relatively new to MF gear, so I have asked many "old questions" already at this forum... :-)

I am happy my help was succesful.

What M42 lenses do you have in mind?

I think the MD (rokkor) 24mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.4, 85mm f/2 and 100mm f/2.5 are hard to beat. 50mm macro is also a sharp beast.(these are not the cheapest MF lenses, but I have a feeling prices go down rapidly these days).

It's a classic question! check www.dyxum.com for more info or this forum.

Only when the old lenses are really good it useful to do this. There are MD to AF adapters, generic ones, with a lens element that magnifies aprox. 1,2X on top of the crop factor. There is also a new adapter available (from Haoda). Keep in mind you have to set the aperture yourself before measuring the light. The lens element in the adapter has a (small?) negative effect on the image quality. And the coating of the old lenses isn't good enough for the reflection of the sensor, so you can see bright dots or other light reflections in the image.