janez_pelko

<p>I have D700 and Tokina 2.6-2.8/28-70 latest model and 2.8/80-200, also Tokina, but 15 years old. 28-70 produces really outstanding results while 80-200 can deliver good results only in certain conditions. The lens has big troubles with front/back focus. I calibrated it only for short distances, up to approx 5-6 meters, further away lens shows backfocus. At longer distances it is really bad. At about 20m there is near 2m of backfocus at open aperture at 200mm! If I calibrate it for longer distances, it shows strong front focus when I do portraits. I don't use lens much, only for portraits and concerts where I can get close so I can somehow live with that.<br>

My lens also shows a lot of CA, which is visible on older digital cameras, D700 already eliminates it with firmware.<br>

In the past I worked as a photojournalist and used this lens a lot with film. I had no problems mentined above. Looks like newer AF is made different way than at older cameras.<br>

Maybe latest versions of this lens behave better, so give it a try :)<br>

Best regards,</p>

 

<p>There are some answers in this topic: <a href="../nikon-camera-forum/00N7lY">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00N7lY</a><br>

I tested this lens a lot and you can also find my observations (at the bottom of the topic).<br>

Best regards,<br>

Janez</p>

<p>I had the same problem with my 105 DC as most of you have. I made a lot of tests with D70, D2x and D700 and I found the following:<br>

Under tungsten lights all images show very visible front focus. If I set DC ring to F2, sharpness is much better, but not exactly the same as under natural light. Very light soft focus effect is applied, but this is only visible at 'pixel peeping'.<br>

But... under the natural light AF is dead on. At f2 images are all sharp!<br>

I talked to my NPS service representative and he confirmed that some lenses exhibit front or bac focus at artifical light.<br>

I tested my other AF lenses for front or back focus and they all needed some adjustment (with D700) using AF fine tuning from -10 to +10. Note that this tuning make only slight difference. I only use steps by 5, inbetween difference is almost invisible.<br>

The biggest adjustment (+15) was needed at 1.4/50, this lens suprisingly works perfect on D70 and D2x.</p>

You don't need Omni-Bounce or diffusion dome fot group shots. It will make no difference, on the other hand it shall reduce the flash power.

Diffusion dome makes difference only at very short distances or in a very tight rooms.

Regards,

Janez

I use Nikon D70 and B&W 093 IR filter, which is totaly black. This combination works great! Exposure times are about 2 seconds at sunny day, 200 ISO and f8. You get true IR photo, monochrome (with red to magenta cast). I first compose a photo without a filter, then put on filter and make a shot.

In PS I make some adjustments. Desaturate and add more contrast.

Best regards,

Janez

As far as I know, Efke 400 film is the same as Ilford HP-5.

Best regards,

Janez

I've owned two Moskva-5 camreras and my experience is that focussing via rangefinder is accurate only at longer distances about 3m - infinity. I also get some fogging from time to time, mainly on slide films, since b&w emulsions are less sensitive to dark red light, which is coming through 'index window'. It is recomended not to wind film in the direct sunlight.

Otherwise it is fine camera, cheap an a lot of fun. Also one of the smallest and lightest 6x9 cameras.

Regards,

Janez

I have Sigma 15-30 and my friend has Canon 17-40. Sigma in sot that bad, but compared to Canon it is awful, especially at corners. Digital camera cuts this corners, but difference is still huge.

Hallo,

 

From time to time I read on different forums complaints how hard it

is to be a wedding photographer, how low it is payed, etc...

I belive the situation is similair all over the world. But things in

Slovenia are a bit worse, I belive. Most of photographers charge

about 300 US$ for service, which consists of 80-100 prints of

different size (most of them are 15x21cm), inserted in premium album,

which costs alone more than 50$. Events covered: civil wedding,

church wedding and studio outdoor 'romantic' photos, group photos,

etc. Price also includes all films + processing (usually about 15),

all prints and all travel costs (usually 100-200km).

I was among those photographers for about 10 weddings, then I raised

my price to 400$. I am now obviously too expensive. Or am I not good

enough fot this price? Here is the link to some of my wedding photos:

 

http://www.janez-pelko.com/poroka.htm

 

OK, I scanned prints and most scans are terrible. But I hope you got

the feeling.

I have one for more than ten years now. Excellent lens. Comparable to Nikkor 2.8/80-200.

Linhof 6x9 rollfilmback measures 56x87mm as far as I remember...

I have to disagree with most of the previous posts. I own a manual focus fisheye, Sigma 2.8/15mm, which I bought new about six years ago (at about time they discontinued it). I payed about 400US$ and it is really good lens. I use it a lot, it is especially suitable for landscape photography. Suprisingly, I made a lot of commmercial photos with this lens, even portraits. It can be very effective and creative tool, you just have to get used to it and use it a lot.

On the other hand, I was very dissapointed with Sigma 3.5/14mm. I had problems with terrible ghosts all the time. New 2.8/14 is completely different and much better.

I have 4x5 viewfinder with 6x7 mask, but I am not sure if 6x9 mask

exists.

Regards,

Lenses for 5x7 are mostly the same as for 4x5 so you don't have to

invest much. You lose some movements, but you get wideangle lenses

from normal ones and normal lenses from tele for 4x5.

I like this format very much. I carry camera and lenses a lot in the

field, I also found old and cheap, but very good enlarger. I have

also a 20$ (used) enlarging lense, but I get very good results since

I only magnify up to 4x and I get 50x70cm prints!

Contact prints look very nice, especially printed on larger paper

(18x24cm).

I also use 4x5 reducing back, mostly for slides since 5x7 slide films

are only special-order.

I have Bi Kardan 5x7 with 4x5 reducing back and I simply love it. You

should have no problems with architectural photography. I use 90mm

lens on recessed board for 4x5 because reducing back is about an

inch "recessed" compared to 5x7, where I use 121mm lens. But you must

also use wide angle bellows.

There is one disatvantage over Kardan GT cameras I noticed: Bi is not

jaw-free. It has also a base tilt, but it lies above swing. This is

more critical at tabletop work. On the other hand Bi has plenty of

direct rise/fall and shift movement.

Enjoy,

I found this lens in Prontor-Press shutter, serial No. abot 10 700 000. I know only the age of lens and I want to know some other details, especially image circle and general purpose. Is this macro lens, since it has similair name to enlarging lenses? I never heard before for Componar lenses and I also cannot find any information on Schneider Optics homepage.

 

<p>

 

Regards,

Hallo,

 

<p>

 

I was offered two lenses for my Technika 6x9:

- Schneider Xenotar 2.8/100 No. 12856729 (1974?)

- Linhof Weit Technikon 5.6/58 No. 6038909

I don't know nothing about these lenses and I am especially interested in image circles and prices. Is 300 US$ too much for each one? They are both mounted on lensboards and in good condition. I intend to use Xenotar for table top and Technikon for architecture photography. I currently use old Schneiders 6.8/65 and 3.5/105 (produced about 1958) and I don't know if "new" lenses would be much better. Any advice would be very welcome.

Thank you!

Dear Dave,

 

<p>

 

I own a beautiful 5x7 Bi-Kardan and I use it quite a lot, mostly in

the field. You'll get used to carry a big box with camera and

accessories easily. I never regreted to get such a big camera for

field work. This was my first large format camera and after only few

shots I completely got used to it. I have also 121mm Super Angulon

which I use without problems, but you'll need wide angle bellows. I

belive 90mm should also work.

I cannot compare my setup with 8x10 since I never used it.

Enjoy!

I have the same lens and also some other Linhof Schneider lenses with

same type of shutter. They all work the same way as your so don't

worry. Once I opened one of those shutters and there is a separete

spring just for 1/500 and it is indeed very tight.