iangriffiths
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Posts posted by iangriffiths
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<p>Bob,</p>
<p>If they ask you to send it in for the screw, you may as well tell them why you were doing it in the first place, so they can test the camera for you fully. At least that way, you may narrow down the fault.</p>
<p>Rgds<br>
Ian</p>
<p>Robin, I think your response was a bit harsh when not knowing Bob's background.</p>
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<p>There's an excellent book that deals with compact cameras and underwater photography, and the pain of detritus...</p>
<p>It has a load of examples using Canon cameras and it also shows the settings used.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>I am contemplating underwater photography</p>
</blockquote>
<p> <br>
I'm guessing you can hire an underwater housing and applicable lens port for your 7D? If not, your contemplation is going to cost from $1500+ for the housing, and $200+ for the relevant lens port. The other problem you'll have, is that all of the housings I have seen, do not have room for the pop-up flash to be used.<br>
The other problem you'll have is that the Canon flashes are designed for use in air, not 30m down in murky water, so dedicated underwater strobes/subject lights are recommended.<br>
And then we have the problem with buoyancy control. Trying to keep your body stable, floating in mid water, while trying to frame, focus and fire a camera.... Oh the joys ;-)</p>
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<p>Gregory,</p>
<p>As far as I know, Magic Lantern is just a boot loader that resides on your memory card.</p>
<p>Remove your card and format it on a PC, then try your camera again.</p>
<p>Regards<br>
Ian</p>
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<p>Poking out of a rock at low tide in Cornwall.</p>
<p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7240/6996521351_33db11c855_z.jpg" alt="" width="427" height="640" /><br>
<strong>EOS 1100D - 50mm F/1.8 1/800</strong></p>
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<p>Michael, yes, mine setup for that shot was afocal. My scope is a 80x600mm f/7.5, so at prime focus I get this close...</p>
<p><a title="Super Moon 2011 by Bladeflyer, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladeflyer/5546605986/"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5051/5546605986_81dc282d27_z.jpg" alt="Super Moon 2011" width="640" height="480" /></a></p>
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<p>All depends on how close you want to get. 600mm on an APS-C sensor will pretty much fill the frame of a full moon. If you want closer, then you're getting into the realms of telescopes.<br>
<a title="Super Moon 2011 by Bladeflyer, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladeflyer/5546623518/"><img src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5058/5546623518_bf8c01acf9_z.jpg" alt="Super Moon 2011" width="640" height="428" /></a><br>
<strong> ED80 telescope with 5mm Hyperion eyepiece, mounted to D200. 1/10th, ISO800 F/7.5.</strong></p>
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<p>Hi Weston,<br>
For achieving perfect focus, you could look at acquiring/making a Bahtinov Mask. I use one on my telescope, and I made one for my 24-70, and the focus is always spot on. They come in lots of different sizes, and there are plenty of plans available for free.</p>
<p>Rgds<br>
Ian</p>
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<p>My dog enjoying the fresh snow.<br>
<a title="Walls in the snow by Bladeflyer, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladeflyer/5282876364/"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5289/5282876364_3f9cab9707.jpg" alt="Walls in the snow" width="437" height="500" /></a><br>
<strong> D200 24-70 F/2.8 @ 70mm F/4.0 1/125sec ISO 100</strong></p>
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<p>Happy Wednesday all.</p>
<p><img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4793220773_525b9210cd_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="428" /></p>
<p ><strong>"Walls"</strong></p>
<p><strong>D200, 50mm F1.4 @F/1.4. 1/500, ISO100</strong></p>
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<p>Hi Justin,<br>
As Bob said, getting a decent image will be tricky with this scope as it's primarily designed for astronomy. However, if you decide to try to use it for general photography, you'll need the following...</p>
<p>1.25" T-Mount<br>
There are 2 main types of these. 1 designed for "Prime Focus" where you use the telescope as a lens, and 1 designed for "Eyepiece Projection" where you fit an eyepiece into the T-Mount to magnify the scope image. These can be any make, ebay is good for this.</p>
<p>T-Ring designed for your camera fitment<br>
Again, made made by lots of people so try ebay. Mine cost me about £5 for a Nikon compatible.</p>
<p>1.25" 45 Degree Erecting Prism Diagonal<br>
A standard telescope comes with a Star Diagonal which produce a back-to-front/upside down image. This is fine for astronomy, but not very good for terrestrial viewing. The Erecting Prism will give you a correctly orientated image.</p>
<p>The T-mount and Ring will allow you to start using your scope for some basic astrophotography, which is a whole new ball game, but very rewarding when it works.</p>
<p>Good luck with the scope<br>
Ian</p>
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<p>I seem to have a strange idea at the back of my mind that there wasn't a PSE 7 for Mac. Didn't it jump from 6 to 8?</p>
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<p>The one word in you question hits me...Auto....<br>
Sounds like it might be selecting a smaller aperture and not letting enough light in. Try going to aperture priority mode and trying either F/2.8 or f/4 to see if that helps.</p>
<p>Have fun......and keep learning as I'm sure we all are...</p>
<p>Ian</p>
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<p>I was lucky enough to get some free tickets to an event at Silerstone last year. Having never shot motorsport before, I though it was an ideal opportunity.<br>
I took...<br>
D200 + MB-D200 + 4 Batteries<br>
12-24 f/4.5-5.6<br>
24-70 f/2.8<br>
70-200 f/2.8<br>
1.7x TC<br>
Mono pod<br>
Gorilla pod<br>
+ water, snacks, etc<br>
<br>
And after a day of walking round, I was exhausted. I just put it down to inexperience, but fun!<br>
<br>
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3081/2873121059_2da121b9fc_b.jpg" alt="" width="686" height="484" /><br>
<img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3086/2873100953_2f4c6e5b0f_b.jpg" alt="" width="689" height="328" /><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
</p>
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<p>Count me in from the other side of the pond please!<br>
Many thanks - Ian, UK</p>
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<p>Hi Don,</p>
<p>There was a recent post on Strobist.com about capturing Hummingbirds. Might be worth a look.</p>
<p>http://strobist.blogspot.com/2009/02/winter-treat-frozen-hummingbirds.html</p>
<p>Cheers</p>
<p>Ian</p>
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Thanks for the help so far.
Yes, should have mentioned where I took it, Duh!
I'm actually in the UK and it was taken in Worcestershire. As I said, I have no idea about birds, unless it's common, Blue-Tit, Sparrow, Robin, etc
As for size, all I can say is that it was bigger than a crow, but that's about it, sorry.
Thanks
Ian
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Hi all,
I was out today shooting a derelict workshop in some woods, when I heard a pair of these birds flying overhead.
No idea what they are as I'm not really into bird photography but took a snap out of curiosity.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bladeflyer/2976189338/
Thanks in advance for any input.
Ian
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G5 laptop, oh I wish! ;-)
Google is your friend for this as there are plenty of sites out there that help with upgrades.
Of course, you could always add another disk so that you won't lose the current 160GB. Alternatively, if it's just storage requirements you need for photos, docs, etc, then I use a FireWire 800 (1394b) external drive. Damn quick and more convenient as I can also plug it into my PowerBook to take on demos and stuff.
Cheers
Ian
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Also, forgot to mention, they are also a Nikon Premier Dealer.
Cheers
Ian
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Hi Bruce,
I also tried the Jessops haggle for the D700 and got nowhere. The guy was friendly enough, but he admitted that
he wasn't even allowed to match their own web prices. His final comment was "I guess you'll be buying it
elsewhere then?", "Unfortunately, yes." I replied.
If you want a proper store at a cheaper price than Jessops, try Clifton Cameras (http://www.cliftoncameras.co.uk).
I have bought several of my latest purchases from them, 70-200VR, 1.7TC, SB800 and every time they have been
polite, courteous and extremely helpful. In fact, as soon as this month pay comes along, I'll be off to get the
D700 myself.
Regards
Ian
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Gerald, Matt,
Thanks guys for the quick reassuring responses. It's taken me a little while to save up for the lens and tc so last thing I wanted to do is break anything.
Ian
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Hi all,
I am off to a motorsport event this weekend and need some advice on the best way to mount the camera to my monopod.
Usually if I just use the D200 & 70-200, then I mount the tripod to the lens foot. However on this event, I will
also have the teleconverter & battery pack on the camera, so this will obviously change the balance of the whole
setup.
As far as I can see, no matter where I mount the camera, either on the lens foot or the battery pack, it will put
excessive strain on the lens mount. I know handheld will be ok as both ends are supported.
My questions are...
1, Has anyone else had this situation and safely attached the monopod to either the lens or camera, if so which?
or
2, Is there a bracket or similar I can get that supports both the camera and lens that attaches to a monopod?
Sorry for a weird question, but I'm just a bit paranoid that something might break when I'm panning, etc.
Many thanks
Ian
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Ok, I may be missing something obvious here, but couldn't you just laminate the pictures once printed? I've done quite a few prints for humid areas bathrooms, pools, etc and found that this was the easiest way to protect them from water damage. That way, any A4 printer would do?
Regards
Ian
Monday in Nature POTW 6-17-2013
in Nature
Posted