james72

I only recently started developing in the Yankee tank and have had problems since the beginning. It started when I got the tank and when I adjuted it to fit 4x5 it would never stay put, just collapse. So I took a glue gun and glued it into position which fixed the problem. However, once I started using it I got horrible uneven development. I thought it was my methods and made adjustments but had the same results every time. I went back to tray development. Well, I recently went on a trip and shot about 14 sheets. when I got back I decided the tank would be easier than trying to shuffle the sheets in a tray. I knew I was taking a risk. When I started to pull them out of the tank after processing I noticed the ones closer to the center of the tank were uneven more than the outer ones. Then I noticed they all had the same pattern of uneven development, kind of an "h" shape. I suspected fogging. Well, of course the ones fogged beyond repair were the better shots so I began to investigate further. I took a small flash light and shined it inside the tank to search for light leaks. Lo and behold, the clear glue from the glue gun was allowing light to shine through from where the pieces fit inside one another. Ah Ha! So I removed the glue and realized that even if the unit fit tightly as it was supposed to in the first place it would allowed even more light inside. It's just a very poor design allowing a ridiculous amount of light inside. My ultimate solution was to get a black plastic sprue from a model airplane kit and use a solder iron to effectively weld the unit together as before except with light-proof material. Works like a charm now. Yes, 55oz is a lot of chemistry but it's nice when you need to develop a large amount of negs and can't afford something nicer. Hope this helps. Sorry it was so long-winded.

Sorry... the files are small, for hobbies and such. sold as a pack of 4 or 5. Also, it doesn't take a lot to make the image on the film so don't go crazy and remove half you film holder. :)

I use the same tank and it took some time getting the inversion cycles right without any surge marks from emptying too fast or uneven development marks. it just takes some time and good luck. You'll burn through some film figuring it out.

With regards to keeping track of what film, I read somewhere about notching your holders and gave it a try. It requires you to keep notes but here's what I did. First, go to a hardware store and look for a pack of metal files. Mine are round, half-circle, triangle, diamond, and flat. I went and systematically filed into the flap of my filmholders a code. Basically, I did triangle, triangle, triangle, turned the holder over and did, triangle, triangle, circle. Then on the next holder, I did triangle, triangle, flat. So on and so on. You get the idea. Now, you MUST be careful and clean all edges and surfaces of particles. Whatever you can do to make sure you get all the microscopic pieces of filmholder up. Once that's done, all you do is keep track what holder got what exposure in your notebook. For instance, "Circle, Circle, Flat 1/60 @ f/8". Then, once the film is developed, you can see this new edge-marking and compare it to your notes to determine which sheet it is. I went to see Richard Avedon's The West (?) show and noticed he did the same (they were printed to the edge).

I suppose I'm just frustrated and grasping for straws. I ordered a box of Delta (lower film speed) to hopefully make it all better but it's on backorder and the weather hasn't cooperated all summer and fall (it's all cloudless skies and high contrast everything) and no one seems to have any Ilford film anywhere (I've shot Kodak for the last 20 years and feel like I'm being forced to move on as Kodak is doing itself). Sorry to be complaining. A nice sharp-grained film would really hit the spot about now. Like I said, I'm just glad my methods seem to be consistant.

Thanks for the information. I'm considering changing to Ilford's fine-grain developer (ID 11) if for no other reasons than variety and to find one I really like. I suppose I was somewhat dissapointed when my first prints weren't the sharpness I've seen on other LF prints. As for size I'll be printing I have a somewhat naive outlook I'll be doing 16x20s and 20x24s with sweeping landscapes of grandeur and portraits... forgive me while I get the rose color out of my eyes... In reality I'm printing 8x10s but will probably try 16x20s in the coming weeks. All this talk about film is almost moot because all the film I've ordered is on backorder and has been for 2 weeks...but I digress...I am glad to know I at least came to what Ilford says is their film's speed. Thanks for the information once again.

New to 4x5 so I figured I'd start out right by ISO testing my film.

FP4 Plus for 10 minutes at 68 in DD-X 1:4 in Daylight tank with mild

agitation (tilting one side of the tank every second, alternating

sides with each second) every 30 seconds gave me EV 160. I thought

this was odd and re-tested and had the same results. I understand

this is my rating with my methods. That's fine. My concern is, at EV

160, will I be losing sharpness or acutance I would otherwise have

if it was rated at a lower ASA? That is, will my negatives'

sharpness or acutance (grain size, in particular) be the same

as "Bob's" negs with EV 50 or even EV 25? And, if not, what can I do

to decrease grain size? Or should I simply choose a different film?

Any clue what I'm talking about? Thanks in advance.

New to 4x5 so I figured I'd start out right by ISO testing my film.

FP4 Plus for 10 minutes at 68 in DD-X 1:4 in Daylight tank with mild

agitation (tilting one side of the tank every second, alternating

sides with each second) every 30 seconds gave me EV 160. I thought

this was odd and re-tested and had the same results. I understand

this is my rating with my methods. That's fine. My concern is, at

EV 160, will I be losing sharpness or acutance I would otherwise

have if it was rated at a lower ASA? That is, will my negatives'

sharpness or acutance (grain size, in particular) be the same

as "Bob's" negs with EV 50 or even EV 25? And, if not, what can I

do to decrease grain size? Or should I simply choose a different

film? Any clue what I'm talking about? Thanks in advance.