david.seaton

evelyn...

 

to use it as a fill flash, you would simply dial down the flash expsoure comp. to about -1 to -1.5 This will make just a very weak flash but will act as a good fill and not over power. You should shoot in Av or Tv (or M) mode for best results.

 

You can get even better results by taping a peice of tissue over the flash, this will help diffuse your flash.

 

As for external flash, there is the speedlite series... i dont have much experience so I will let others tackle that.

Emer, what are you basing this upon? as far as I know, and I may be wrong, burned music CDs ARE a subset of burned data CDs, (just a special, CD-player coding if you will), unless we are talking about comercially pressed music CDs (in which case comparing their longevity to home burned data CDs/DVDs used for photo archive would be trivial). Unless the uncompressed nature of the songs on audio CDs plays a part (a one byte corruption/scratch will affect a much smaller relative portion of a song?) I cant see how they are "less sensative to failure" than data CDs.

 

...or are there other factors to consider? your post seems to imply, ceteris paribus, that an audio cd with some songs burned will outlast a data cd burned with the same files in .WAV format. I cant see how this logically holds up.

Hi all

 

I am vacationing with a strange laptop. bought a card reader today as a simple fix. DPP or zoom browswer or the EOS utility PROB. would have worked; unfort. canon doesnt provide any of the software that came with the camera cd (sitting at home!) available online, atleast as far as I know.

 

This is a "corporate" laptop which may explain some of the troubles, I will try installing some of the EOS software off the CD when I get home and post an update to let any one else who is facing this issue. Anyway, thanks for the quick responses guys.

 

Regards - dave

Am in DC and having trouble with my XT and windows 2000. Downloaded

the Twain drivers from canon, camera recognized by windows and

installed ok. When I connect the camera it launches "Imaging", with a

specific canon window. Unfort. things stop there whether the camera

is in PTP or PC connect mode. I cant see the camera in explorer

either, which is normally how I do things.

 

Any ideas on how to get both my RAWs and JPGs off the card.

 

Dave

OK just tried to do Frames -> pano -> hdr... Does not really work at all.

now for the 1st method HDR one (frames -> hdr -> pano)...<div></div>

Thanks for the responses. I did a trial run of my backyard, and got results I am happy with. Edward, I took your advice and went HDR first then pano. The actual frames looked very different exposure and contrast wise (I am not too framiliar with tone mapping so this was probably the problem), but after i stiched--tried using Panorama Factory, and was impressed--the software blended these issues very well. I've attached the results here, the LDR one first and then the HDR. I am going to try pano then HDR just for giggles and post that as well. Thanks again!<div></div>

I am interested in doing panoramic HDR shots with my XT. I have good

experience putting together "normal" panos using software called

panostich (might not be the best out there but I learned it quickly

and am happy with the results--for now) and have just gotten into

the (what i feel is amazing) world of HDR using CS2 and and

Photomatix. I also practice good photographic technique, mlu,

tripod, raw, tiff etc.

 

My question is this: What workflow would you suggest for making hdr

panoramas like the ones seen here:

http://www.hdrsoft.com/examples.html (6th one down). (A) Stich the

panos first and then HDR them, or (B) HDR each "frame" of the pano

and then stich. I am leaning towards (A) because I know panostich

doesnt support HDR images directly so I would have to tone map

before hand and this might get messy.

 

Basically, I am just looking for a confirmation of my feelings on

these issues, and any advice from any one who has attempted this

before.

 

Regards,

dave

My family has probably 2500+ slides (35mm) from the past 20 years,

plus another 3000 from our grandfather's estate. Is there any way to

scan these in a time effecient manner? we have a flat bed scanner,

but I am wondering if there are any slide scanners that accept a

batch at once. I dont need super great quality, like publication

grade, but would like to be able to make prehaps 8x10 or 11x14

enlargements from the digital prints if that is needed in the

future. What are my options? please include approx. price if

possible.

 

thanks

 

dave

it depends what you are more intersted in. Working with medium format, you will probably be doing portrait or landscape work. Med format is more intense in terms of framing, composition, metering, etc. You'll also learn alot about the processing aspect, pushing pulling, etc. Digital you could do landscape, portrait, plus sports. Its more mobile. Also, you get to take ALOT of shots for cheap. In my opinion this is the best way to become a good photographer. You'll also be able to bring that SLR to parties, college travel, etc. Go with the digital. get the best lens you can afford for what you want to do.

16x9 aspect ration on a camera? no way. Full Frame sensors are mainly the world of pros and will be for atleast a while, and pros use EXPENSIVE lens... lens designed for a 35mm film frame. 16x9 aspect ratio is not full frame... a 16x9 would introduce crop factor too. the image on from a lens is a circle... in theory, you would get "fullest" frame by a 1x1 ratio, (ie, mathamaticaly, filling a circle with a square maxamizes the area covered)

Go with the digital. With almost no variable costs aside from the intial purchase, you can shoot, shoot, shoot... that is the best way to improve. The cost of "shoot shoot shooting" with film will add up FAST. and scaning takes ALONG time. I look at what looks good on here and in photo coffee table books and try to emulate.

Does any one know of/use any programs for laying out "composites",

like fraternities or sororities get? I am currently using corel for

laying it out, and had to scratch a person (quit the organization

after shoot) and had to readjust EVERYTHING! So I am looking for

something that would help with automatically spacing, etc.

Can I sell photos I get at NCAA basketball games? Issue is supsect

due to A) non-proffesional players and B) school logos. Any advice?