snakeroot
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Posts posted by snakeroot
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Never seen it or heard of it in 20 years of clinical practice, but will do a literature search soon and let you know what I've found.
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I would assume prolonged exposure to the sun through a telephoto lens would certainly damage your retina (and be sufficient evidence for psychiatric hospitalization). I would also assume even the slowest of reflexes would be protective in the situation you describe. I don't think you need to fear a retinal burn tracking soaring birds, but would suggest your expensive handheld equipment might be at risk considering the potent reflex that might result.
I am inquisitive about the sensor issue on my camera though. Anyone with information?
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Thanks Mark, didn't mean to be a wiseguy, the photo I posted in this thread was from my 24-105 f/4 lens, not a super telephoto. It was shot fairly wide, and I framed the shot only briefly.
Do you or others think this could damage the camera's sensor?
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Guess to hear it from others on this thread you aren't supposed to point your camera at the sun, even with a circular polarizer at Maine's weak winter sun.
Darn, maybe that's why I have this yellow spot in my vision up off to the left. I guess I don't have to see that retinal specialist after all. I'll just keep looking to the right.
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Just bought my EF 500mm f4 lens in the last month. I am pleased with it, but still learning. Handholding is pretty simple in good light, but gets more complicated with extenders or marginal light. I wrap the lens in a plastic bag for a half hour coming in from the cold Maine winter, and have had no difficulty.
I can't say anything for sure about this particular lens and sun flare, but I've included an example of a sun shot from an IS lens that may be revealing. It's a shot directly into the winter sun with my 24-105 f4 IS lens, another L series Canon lens.
I've never shot Nikon, I love my bazooka 500. I use it on an EOS 1Ds MarkII, usually with a 1.4 and sometimes a 2x extender. There are a lot of experienced photographers on this site that can probably do your comparison.<div></div>
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By the way, ordered my neoprene lens covers today. Camo from Nature Photographers Online, I assume it will help avoid spooking all the critters that I'm after.
Thumbs down on the car window mount for now.
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I don't know about the hatch year, and I think the jury's still out on whether this is a sharp-shinned vs cooper's.
Not an ornithologist here, but it looks like my bird identification skills are going to have to improve.
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Got another shot today of a hawk, this time used the tripod collar's mounting clamp to steady on the window haflway up, much more effective method.
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I had just shot some seabirds in bright sun, and had the circular polarizer in the lens, with an ISO of only 100. I forgot to change things on the way home when I saw the owl and didn't have the presence of mind to at least change speed. This probably explains some of the background distractions.
I vow not to be so poorly prepared in the future.
Thanks again Mark, will not order the Car Mount, instead I did order neoprene camo covers for my 500/4 and extenders. You should post your website again for some of your wildlife shots, and if you don't here it is: http://www.biology.ucr.edu/personal/MACphotos/flyingindex.html
It's in my favorites list.
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Anyone use a combination of the RRS BH55 ballhead with a Kirk Window
Mount? I know there are compatibility issues with Arco Swiss
ballheads with the Kirk Window Mount, but wonder if anyone has
personal experience with my planned configuration.
Got several shots at an owl today, but handheld out the car window,
and definitely no way to rig a bean bag. Sharpest shot follows, of
course with a turned head.
I wonder if one can shoot up into the trees with the Kirk window
mount like one can with a regular tripod using my Wimberly sidekick.
Using a Canon 1Ds Mark II and EF 500mm F4 with an extender.<div></div>
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I think the 580EX is pretty intuitive for the computer literate.
I have two, with the ST-E2 and MT24EX. Doesn't take long to learn the bells and whistles by using them. The strobe thing is fun to play with.
(Except the batteries died and I haven't figured out how to replace them because I lost the freakin manuals).<div></div>
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I've had factory adminstrators shooing me away with my 500/Mark II combo when shooting pigeons, I can imagine what they would do with that monster.
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Spoiled indeed, but by L series lenses.
The world is not insane because of them, but if not for "beautiful women, fast cars" and L series lenses, life is for naught.
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Can't imagine owning non L series lens. How long do you expect to use your lens? 10 years? Amortize the extra cost and see the true value in a pro series lens.
Go to the pound and get a dog, or buy from a breeder to get a potential champion.
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This lens looks pretty nice, anyone with sample photo sources?
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Sorry guys, but I like drumming my fingers in thought before reaching into my bag and pulling out a different lens to play with. I learn with new lenses, they don't gather dust.
Life is very short. Buy your lens and enjoy.
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Go to BhPhotoVideo main site, and type psjan in the search box under all products. Discounted items including the 70-200 2.8 lens above. Lots of other goodies too, I bought the 4gb Extreme III Sandisk compact flash card myself... Thinking about a commercial Canon printer from that list too, but hey I'm not a pro.
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The Canon EF 70-200mm 2.8 IS lens is a very good all around lens, especially if you have the 18-55. Not a $1000, but if you go to BHPhotoVideo.com and search for "psjan" under "all items", you can scroll through the pages found and get it for $1500 or so, (regularly priced over $1700 if you search for it without the "psjan" trick).
This lens is an L series lens, fast and very sharp, and my favorite. It sits on my camera at all times unless I use my other L series lenses for specific purposes. Solid, heavy and quality throughout.
Check reviews here on photo.net and this website: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-70-200mm-f-2.8-L-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
There are some sample photos there.
Enjoy!
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You might try manual focusing and manual settings on the camera, then you can shoot as many tries as you want. I use a tripod and a remote trigger, and at those slow speeds, engage mirror lockup on that 20D.
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Not a lot of reassuring responses.
Canon's website "Pro Tips" says to turn your camera upside down and blow it out with an air rocket. Nice video, wrong physics. Magnetic attraction and adhesive physics makes that exercise a blow into the wind.
Has anyone here actually scraped their sensor with these special pads and cleaning solutions? Are these sensor brushes safe? Where are the physicists/photographers comments?
Do I pay some Canon service center to do this to my sensor with less care than I would give?
I don't care about the money issues, I could give a damn about the individual companies involved. I just want my sensor cleaned safely.
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Yes, same technique indoors with fill flash. I used the TCN-80 to time bulb exposures at an aperture setting of 18 for 45 seconds for that particular photo. I used the ST-E2 with two 580EX flashes, and used the 1.4x and two 25 mm extension tubes. As you know, MLU and IS on a tripod was necessary.
Photoshop's auto dialogue box barely changed that exposure at all.
Interesting how your focusing really drops down to about a 6 foot range with those 25 mm extensions. Can't focus anything closer that 10 feet or further than 16. Fun stuff this Canon equipment.
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Would anyone use this cleaning kit with confidence? I'm considering
using it on my EOS 1Ds Mark II, lots of dust spots on the sensor.
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Thanks for your help John, I think I've got it figured out. You are exactly right, the images were badly underexposed, and Photoshop automatically adjusted the output to the best setting.
I exposed this image correctly in manual mode, after a ton of practice settings. I also learned a good bit about MLU's importance, and IS on a tripod.
This 500mm lens is very nice to learn on, thanks again.<div></div>
Optimizing for the web.?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
Photoshop CS2 has a save for Web menu entry, that's how I do it, and the images I post have the identical lackluster appearance they have offline.
Which image software are you using?