kevin h. y. lui.

<p>Hi,<br />I just got one of my dream camera, Voigtlander Vitessa. It comes with Ulron 50/2 but the rear element is seriously separated. Rainbow like colour show in the glass. I was told not to use any separated lens because of poor image. Is that really true for that?Should I let my Vitessa get off from my collection?<br>

Kevin</p>

 

<p>Hi,<br>

I found an interesting Retina IIa with knob for film transport and uncoated Xenon 5 cm f/2.0. It looks like this one :http://kodak.3106.net/index.php?p=216&cam=1394 . I have never met a retina IIa like this before.<br>

How much should it be usually? I have asked the owner but he replied with an astronomical price, that is too horrible for me.<br>

Kevin </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am ordered two Focuing Screen L- A. Both of them are came with original box and papers. However, the name label of the screen says Focusing Screen A instead. The also look like the Screen A I already have . <br /> Does it mean both of them are false item?<br /> Kevin</p>

<p>I got it fixed by pressing down the little metal cover. It helps to enable the V-shaped little metal plate ( below the cover) lock the joins.<br>

CLA a Retina II 142 is not easy, especially the RF. Its design is totally different from the letter version.The vertical adjustment is done by turning 2 little screws on the metal bar, which opposite to the round wheel.</p>

 

<p>I removed all screws of the RF unit and put them back . Everything works again by luck. <br /> However I notice it is rather difficult to rewind film after shooting. The connection between the rewind knob and the fork below is loosen.I am trying hard to fix them.</p>

<p>I did some searching but Richard Oleson and Chris' pages do not include any information about Retina II (type 142). I tried to remove the front element but no success. Only the front element can be taken out. So how to remove the front group elements ?</p>

<p>Hi,<br /> I just received my Retina II (142), however the RF needs to be calibrated vertical and horizontally. Besides the shutter is slow and weak to fire in slow speed.<br>

Can anyone tell me how to CLA this camera? Thank you.</p>

<p>It looks like a stupid question, but which model would you (or you won't) prefer most? <br /> I know IIa (type 016) is the best because of the winder located on the top, however I use the II (type 014) more. Both of them are having Xenon and the result has no significant difference, only in the speed of winding.<br>

I think IIc/F/S models could be included in this area, since they are also marked as Retina II models.</p>

<p>The Japanese folding cameras seems rare in discuss and I am going to begin the collection of these cameras. Is there any good or worth to collect models?</p>

<p>There is no differences of the lens used in these 2 cameras. IIIC has a larger VF/RF which allows to use 35mm or 85mm lens without adding an additional viewfinder.<br>

The design of the "c" series is the best of the Retina. But please note IIc has no light meter and the aperture is f/2.8 instead of f/2 (for IIIc/C only).</p>

<p>I have seen a set of Canon P selling in Japan with these 2 lens for around (or less than ?) US$300 in last 2 month. And that would be much better if you can also get a 35mm f/2.8 version with that price. A faster one, 35mm f/1.8 is a fun lens to play with but for quality that would be 35mm f/2 or f/2.8.<br>

I don't have a Canon P actually, I just borrowed it from my friend. It is a very good camera for use, and its body is much better than other LTM cameras. BTW Canon P is too common in Asian area, especially Japan. Try to find them out in Japanese auction site and you will notice the great difference in price.</p>

<p>I have one too but it cost me less than a $50 with carrying case. I bought it from auction sites in Japan. I decoloured it for a mounth in summer and everything become great.<br /> I don't know how long it would take for my Takumar 35/2, there is no changes during the whole autumn. I am going to give up</p>

<p>I checked the rear element and found no separation. It is a very good news to me. But the leather case spoil everything because of the oxidized sponge is everywhere (How to remove them? They are really messy...). I think it should the the case of the cheap price. But what causes it cheap in auction websites? <br /> And my front cap is a screw in type without canon's symbol, I have never seen this before. Is the original cap?</p>

<p>Thank you :)<br /> I wondered whether if it is rare than SSC version. It seems that most of them are available in SSC rather than my chrome nose version.</p>

<p>Just got a FD 24mm chrome nose from a flea market with unexpected low price.<br /> I wonder how much does it worth actually? And how to know if it has separated lens group?</p>

<p>80-200mm might not necessary right now, since it is heavy and I don't think he need this at this moment. I start from 35mm because 35mm is the best focal length I used for snap shooting. 28mm is ok but I rarely use it. How about Zoom start from 28mm? Should I let him try with it first?</p>

<p>I have this adapter, and using my Canon old F-1 to try with some older F-mount, especially non-AI, NKJ lenses. However, some of them are difficult to put on/take off. I think it should be the thickness of the blades varies in my adapter. Ai'd or AIS are much easier.<br /> I have not tested with AF and don't know result. But I think it should be the same that we need to use stop down metering & focusing.</p>

<p>Thank you :D<br>

I think a new AF may not be necessary because it is a MF camera. And I don't want him to get involved in AF/digital area right now. So I checked the website and thinking about these:<br>

28-85mm<br /> 35-85mm<br /> 35-105, and<br /> 35-105mm,<br>

I think the above 4 lenses should be enough for him for daily use. Which one would you suggest?</p>

<p>Hi , <br /> I am going to give a surprise to my cousin who just started film photography last year. He has the 50/1.4 but I think a zoom lens would be more effective to help him to develop his skills. <br /> My cousin use FM2 so I think he might need a Ai zoom lens. But I don't know much about Nikon MF Zoom lenses since I rarely use zoom lens. I want some advice from you to help me choose.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Oh no Andrew, not that plastic stuff. I won't go for it. The coolscan series are nice but they are really expensive to me. I will go for it but it won't at this monent. <br /></p>

<p>I notice there are plenty of youth playing with Film SLR in Hong Kong. I don't know why but it seems it won't stop right now.<br>

I don't mind if the classics become popularagain. It is good for the new generations to learn more about the camera's history. It can matain the market and the production of film too. But I agree Steve's word that they will prefer computer editing instead of actual shooting.</p>

 

<p>I know the advatages of getting yellow for B&W, but I take colour photos mainly.Yellowish-brown lens does brother me. The newer FD 35/2 seems much expensive than the onw I am having.<br>

I like FD 85 f/1.2 too, but it is far too expensive for me. </p>

<p>Thank you Dave, I will try it out. I need a UV Lamp becuase my living area doesn't have sufficient and strong sunlight (blocked by tall buildings). And I think it would be more favourable to control the UV exposure if I use the UV Lamp.<br />I will tell you the result after using the UV Lamp.</p>

 

<p>The lens, FD 35 f/2 S.S.C was just bought from a camera shop recently. When I put it on my old F-1, I I notice the image has a yellow tone in the view finder. The seller told me it is normal for FD lenses since they are old. But I never notice that in my older FL 55.<br>

So I am here to ask, 1.) Is the seller telling me the truth? 2.) Should I give up this lens?<br>

Thank you,<br>

Kevin</p>

<p>Many Japanese, and also Chinese, prefer 8 because it sounds like wishing someone wealth. But I don't think it is related to the design.<br />I like the 8-edge design, since the feeling of holding is much stronger than the round bodies (for some cameras). I think Nikon is the first who make this popular and hence other bands followed. The production cost maight not be related since I know the difference between round / angular edge is very small. <br />Dealing with bodies, I don't like Exakta. 'Too round' and not easy to hold.</p>