robert loop

<p>I have the same problem with extrem 4 Gb ! I d like to know if 2GB goes for sure ! 1GB is OK !</p>

<p>I have sold my Pentax K20D and bought the Fuji S3 Pro... I prefer the last when I look at color rendition... even if it is a slow camera.... Thanks for comments to Mike and Joseph !</p>

<p>If on takes into account picture quality from 100 Iso to 800 Iso, do you know the differences betwwen the three models ?<br>

Is Fuji S5 unsharp compared to the others ? More or less noisy ?<br>

Which model is the best ? Thanks for advice !</p>

<p>With Contax I, I set the speed first and then get the shutter wound, but wind the shutter first with all other Contax and Kiev. It seems to work like this ....</p>

 

<p>What are the cameras where shutter must be wound before changing the speed ?<br>

It seems that for :<br>

Kiev II first shutter wounded than speed change<br>

Contax I first change the speed than wound shutter </p>

<p>Would an expert tell the truth for the whole range of Kiev and Contax ??<br>

THANKS</p>

<p>Robert</p>

<p>Thanks for answers. I hoped to get more comments. It seems that the site is a bit sleepy. Most are recovering from end 2008 ???</p>

<p>Has somebody made a concrete real on the field comparison between the results to be seen (not only a priori<br>

"one is more expensive and with more elements so it is much better" ). Tell me please about concrete experience.<br>

Is the skopar more with a Tmax look and the Heliar with a Tri X look ? <br>

Is the bookeh different ?<br>

Is Skopar sharper ?<br>

I'd like to hear from the friends / expert here on Photo net !!!</p>

<p>BEST WISHES 2009 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!<br>

Robert</p>

<p>Thanks Colin. Most of the advice I got were to set the speed before or after winding the film but was quite unsecure with this as for some cameras it is best to set the speed before and not after. I have followed your comment. Everything is OK. The Contax 1 I have has an X as first serial position and is part silver on top. It is a beautiful camera !! I have heard that it is the most fragile camera ever done by Contax.<br>

What do you think ? One film per year would be OK ? Would'nt it be even more dangerous to leave it without taking pictures... ? Any comment are welcome. I'll post some pictures ...</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for helping. I decided to buy the Contax guide as Brian said, because I can move the 4 groups but do not see how to adjust a speed inside. The manual on butkus does not help, it shows the 4 groups but does not explain how to put the right speed ...<br>

Regards Robert</p>

<p>I recently bought a beautiful Contax I. The shutter is working. I do not understand how to set the speed. I can change the groups but do not understand how to set the exact speed in one group. <br>

How is it possible to set 1/200 ? 1/500 ? <br>

As this mechanism is not to be broken .. I'd prefer one expert helping me.<br>

Butkus description does not help because he does not explain how to change speed.<br>

Thanks for help !!! Robert</p>

<p>Would you help me. I do not know where to post my question. I did it on e time but do not know how to search for answers.<br>

I have got a Contax I but do not know what I have to look at not to get it broken very quickly !!<br>

Would you tell ? What are the dangers ? I love this camera . Please I need help !!!!</p>

I post this question knowing that I have not many chances to get an answer as it is a question for specialists not for digital !

I have a super ikonta IV from Mr Provins and bought it without case so it is lonely waiting for a protection to go outside in real life ! I only

shot one film but the camera is so like new that I am afraid it would get hurt in my bag.

PLEASE WHAT IS THE CASE TO GO FOR THIS CAMERA ? I bought one on e bay but it was too small.

Help !

Robert

Would you say where I can post this question Mr moderator ?

Does this camera able to work with a hood ? Which hood would fit ?

Thanks for info. I know that with vitessa L there is a hood but this hood is too big for the early Vitessa.

Thanks for your opinions . Robert

Both cameras have very good lenses, .... I think that they can produce quite good pictures but are not

razor sharp as some nokton 40 1.4...

 

What do you think about the good and bad sides of these lenses from the 50's ??? Regards Robert

These lenses are both coated from late 50's. 3.5 105 mm. Which one is best if one takes into account the

lens only ??? I'd be happy to read your comments, dear photo.net friends !!!!

Thanks, I found the Mecablitz bct-4 on e bay and will get it soon !!

Robert

Which fash could be /should be used on a Rollei SLX ?? Please help !!

I like these shots ... but a real picture exists only when you can look at it printed.. and not a

PC/Mac screen.....

I hate looking at picture on a PC screen... that is like looking at a Monet painting on PC !

Willy Ronis and Elliott Erwitt did they work with Leica. ?I prefer their pictures to the Doisneau

work.

It s up to you to decide. You would have asked the same question in the sixties or seventies,

everybody would have been laughing at you about your hesitation.... if you don't publish you

can feel free... in 2008 many have difficulties in street shooting ... many people think they

could be on you tube or on a strange website... so they are agressive when been shooted..

What have you done ... ?

Be aware that many medium format cameras are not for "travel light", they are kinda heavy...

An Iskra, a Fuji even the traditional Rolleiflex are better if you wan to travel with. I have had a

complete Bronica SQam, good camera , but shot 2 films and then was taking the dust... too

heavy !!

If you have the chance to find a Contax II with 50 mm1.5 lens, from 1939 as I had, the only

minus point will be the narrow finder, but for me easy to operate, you'll do georgeous

pictures; the same combo after war can be better but the shutter is a bit noisier and many

need CLA. What I prefer is using the Contax II with the post-war lens...you'll be surprised.

 

About KIEV some early Kiev II are as good as the Contax II. But I agree that beginning with a

early Kiev 4 is the cheap way to begin.

To Yakim Peled.

I know that many zooms are very expensive, I was talking about the zooms that you normally

get when you buy a camera. It is true for every brand, these zooms seems cheap but not

very "lumineux" (3.5/ 4 and more).

My choice is to buy a body alone and add a not expensive fixed lens as 50/100 or 200. Many

amateurs are seduced by 35-105 zooms... but not my choice !

Only NO zoom lensees are really oozing quality. I'd prefer a 50 mm1.8 and a 100 mm 2.0 to

begin. It should cost you for both less than 600 ?.

As many I liked zooms because they seem convenient and cheap.. but it is wrong. If you want

a long lens the 200 mm 2.8 is a bit costly around 800 ?...but ...