ian_scholey
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Posts posted by ian_scholey
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Have you tried a RIP like Quad Tone RIP ?
It works with the majority of Epson printers
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Using the correct paper profile will allow you to understand the gamut and dynamic range of the paper / ink combination you are using.
The fundamental difference between paper which reflects light and monitors which emit light mean that you will never get an exact match.
With careful use and 'training' yourself it will however be very useful.
I find it particularly useful in checking shadow detail, or the lack of it. Leaving the softproof on and adjusting the curves will allow some compensation for lack of shadow detail and limited dynamic range
Ian
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The EEM issue is probablt due to the prescence of optical brightning agents (OBA). These chemicals make the paper appear whiter and brighter (also used in washing powders). They do degrade with time and the paper used will return back to its natrual state (looking slightly yellow).
OBA's are used as the cheapest way to make paper whiter.
EEM does used OBA's. So do some papers made by Hahnemuhle !
Manufacturers rarely say how much OBA's are added except when they dont use any.
Ian
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For whatever reason the printer thinks that you have a (MK) matte black ink cartridge in the printer
If you put it in then thats the reason ;-)
I would suspect that previously you hand a (PK) photo black cartridge in it.
If you havent changed carts then it could be a faulty cart. Try re-seating it
Ian
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Dont forget to check that your monitor brightness setting isnt to high.
If / when you calibrate the monitor go for between 100 and 120 cd/m2
Ian
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Hi,
The R2400 is better at B+W printing and has better support for fine art papers (thicker)
The R1800 has gloss optimiser and is better for gloss papers.
So if you like B+W images on fine art paper go for R2400
And if you like gloss paper go for the R1800
Ian
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Have you tried emailing them ?
I am not sure they have profiles available
Ian
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In summary, re-calibrate your monitor with a brightness between 100 and 120 cd/m2. Also make sure that you are not editing your images in a dark room.
If you still have issues you may want to consider a custom printer profile to calibrate your individual printer
Ian
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I think the price paid for prints rises quicker than the cost of consumables rises. This assumes the images can take the increase in size !
A3 prints are big when handheld but not that big whan wall mounted.
Ian
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There is a fundamental difference between emitted light (monitors) and reflected light (prints). You need to try for a match between the bightness of the ambient light reflected off the paper and that comming from the monitor.
If your monitors turned up bright it can produce far more light than you can get reflected off paper.
New monitors are increasingly being made with backlights that can produce 300 to 400 cd/m2 so they can be used as TV's. Its not what you want for photo editing unless you wear sun glasses !
Then you can start thinking about the color of the light (both the monitor which can be adjusted during calibration and the ambient light)
Ian
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There is absolutely no need to convert to a paper profile. If you do this then the file is permanently linked to that printer/paper combination, not realy what you want.
Soft proof and then print from the original source space using the appropriate printer/paper profile.
If you source space is proPhoto then there is a more significant risk of colors that are significantly out of gamut.
Ian
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You may also want to consider Curvemiester plug in that allows you to do L, a and b adjustments without leaving RGB
Ian
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Remember that the Epson driver print profile will have a magenta cast even if the print is OK, its a bug in the driver when using external color management that has never been corrected.
It sounds to me that there is a cartridge / ink problem.
Can we assume that you have done nozzle checks etc
Ian
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Which ever editor you use, if you want accurate color reproduction you need to start by calibrating your monitor. The hardware methods using a puk are by far the best solution.
When you can see the correct colors you can make better judgements about auto-correction features of the s/w.
The advantages of PS and PS Elements is that they support color management fully.
If you have made your adjustments in an editor then you should ask any printer's to turn off any adjustments.
If you are printing your own images then try and use any canned profiles that were installed with the printer for different paper types.
If and when all this is sorted out then you may want to consider custom printer profiles.
Ian
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I am sure that the delay in getting the Imageprint update for the 3800 will mean that you will get the opertunity to try the standard driver
Ian
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You may also want to consider the monitor luminance you are using. If it is turned up 'too much' then the prints will appear darker.
Ian
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The UltraSmooth FIne Art is warm as it doesn't have added brightning agents which will eventually degrade. The agents work by turning UV light into visible light at the blue end of the spectrum. The blue light is perceived as being 'whiter'.
Ian
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Jeff,
Are you using color management with CS2, if so have you selected the appropriate printer profile which may have been installed with the printer.
You may also want to check that you dont have a blocked yellow printer nozzle as this may cause a blue cast
Ian
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Captain,
You dont give many details about your printer / paper / inks, however PrintFix had a reputation for questionable performance. Reports of Print Fix Pro are better although it is seen as a 'value for money' solution that isn't too expensive. Whether it will deliver the results you require depends on a number of factors.
Have you considered custom profiles made for you ?
If you can provide a few more details perhaps we can help you narrow down your choices.
Ian
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Beware that Lightroom for windows wont work if your My Doc's is pointed at a network drive.
You may need to log in as a local admin to get it to work in these circumstances.
Ian
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Dont convert to the profile. Use the downloaded profile only for softproofing. As previous posted explained, most labs dont print to sRGB they just assume a sRGB colourspace.
Ian
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Michael,
The advanced B+W mode in the Epson driver is setup for Epson papers. Many users have reported that it doesn't work very well for non Epson papers.
The other route is to have custom printer profiles generated for the individual papers. As the 2400 printer have been designed with improved linearity cutom profiles do produce more accurate results than previous generations of Epson printers. Also I recommend choosing a pronter profile chart with at least 918 patches, if not more.
This ensures there are plently of neutral or near neutral patches which helps improve B+W printing performance.
Ian
Eye-One Match vs Profile Maker Pro
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
The quality of the output depends on whether you need the options !
If you need to edit a profile carefully or choose a different light temperature then it certainly makes a difference.
I think when you buy i1pro + i1match you will get an upgrade voucher that means you get a significant discount.
Try i1match to start with
Ian
http://profiles.colourperfect.co.uk