stuart_vu

<p>It's hard to say but I use 300*F baked paint as original so everything plastic, vinyl...must be completely remove plus every paint has a different sheen if yours is limit to repaint only inside one compartment, it's not a problem. <br /> I charge $650 for repainting the Leica M2/3/4 alone. Repair ding/dent/nick and disassembly/reassembly job is extra.</p>

<p>Stephen,<br>

I can do it but the cost is more than the cost of buying another one on fleabay. Good luck!</p>

<p>M1 - M3 with no RF (variations include the MD and MDa).<br>

<br /> Sorry, the right answer is : M1 is a M2 NOT a M3 with no RF and no 90mm frameline.</p>

<p>The only different between S2 and S2b is just a finish while the S2 has spot metering and S2b get a center- weighted average metering.</p>

<p>A nice R6 can find at $450 and R6.2 will set you back + $800 plus the 35 lux for about +/- $2,500 or S2/S2b price range from $500 - $1,000 plus + $1,200 for 35/1.4 Distagon.<br>

Save money for the lens as you can buy used Carl Zeiss ZF 35/2 for around +/- $650 or a used ZF.2 35/1.4 for +/- $1,500 to use with your Nikon body. Good luck with your decision.</p>

<p>DMR = Digital Module R.</p>

<p>They moved the server about 3 weeks ago to new location and you know... and all the associated ie. set up, conflict...arise. I think, they just shut it down for maintenance and modifying.</p>

<p>Keith, you can get it at kenrockwell.com/leica/contax-g-conversions.html</p>

<p> </p>

Jeffrey, the little window on the flash shoe that you can open and check the LED metering, the gold bar in front of the flash shoe that you can twist to remove it and be able to access inside the camera for adjusting the meter sensitive. The door on the bottom of the film chamber is for adjust the shutter curtains tension. Cheers.

Laser screen has a letter L beside the letters: A, B, C, D, E,G... indicate type of the focusing screen.

I am with Andy for most of his opinion but I want to add my personal opinion about Nikon rangefinder:

- I love the S2 finder to use just with 50 lens since it has a simple 1.0X finder plus the butter smooth of the film advance level that you can not find with SP, S3 or S4 since it use ball bearing.

- My only complaint about the Nikon rangefinder is all the top and bottom cover is too thin compare with Leica and Canon rangefinder since it used a stamping process then easy to get scratch or dent.

Jessica. You are asking too much for your set.

I still keep my offer to Eric.

Looking through your photos, I guess it's a 35-105 variable focal finder. If all the glass is clear, I would buy it for $150.00. How's it sound, Eric?

Actually, the M6 black chrome or silver chrome has a few bad batches which has a bubbles appear on the finish from age due to bad chemical process before plating. By time, the finish has been attacked by oxigen in the air to become Zinc oxide underneath the finish layer. All regular M6 production has zinc top plate with the exception of limited Edition M6 such as the black paint M6 or the last 999 M6.

Raid, I don't remember the price that I bought for a moment but I think around $100.00 for the battery pack, and $75.00 for the AA standard pack.

Me too. I still have a SL2000F and a 3003 both have a frozen shutter and need service. Raid, let me know if you find a good place for repairing . By the way, I do have some spare battery pack if you need one.

Oceanside camera only repairs mechanical camera not the electronic one.

I guess Jim problem cause by the 580ex has more power than the 420ex then the more you stop-down the lens, the background is more darker. Try to stay with the same f-stop that you used to use with the 420ex. In my experience try to open the lens with one full f-stop and compare. Good luck. Stuart.

My silver chrome R6.2 with serial number: 248XXXX does has some bubbles on the top-plate. Any taker?

In my opinion, the 50/1.9 Kern Macro-Switar and 100/2 APO Kinoptik is the sharpest lens that I have ever had for my Alpa system.

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