bill_l._sunny_colorado

Duh! Thats what I get for typing faster than my brain works. I ment vibration from the shutter. Of course there are no mirrors in those cameras.

If you have the proper skills to handhold a 35mm , you can handhold the 69. I shoot at speeds as low as 1/60 with no problem. This camera does have mirror slap, but so do the Speed Graphics, and Graphlex cameras I have shot with for years.Just pull it in tight and shoot you will be fine. Bill

Hi Frank what developing times do you have using D76 at 3 to 1? How do I ensure that I still have bright highlights, when developing low contrast negatives. A lot of the negatives I have developed this way have lost their brightnest and look muddy when they are printed. Thanks Bill

I notice in a couple of the respones that you are using Rodinal at a high dilution 1-200, and 1-50 and allowing a longer development time. What is the advantage in using it this way? Thanks Bill

Thanks Larry, I undestand standard development, but what is a one hour stand? Why do you do it? Thanks Bill

I have been shooting black and white for 6 months or so and I am hooked. Up

until this point I have been using the remainder of various boxes of film that

I purchashed from another photographer. Needless to say I have different

results from all of the the different types of film that I have been using. I

would like to settle on one type of film and one developer to gain a consistant

result with my negatives. I mainly shoot outside in natural light,my main

subjets have been landscapes and buildings. The light is very intense here in

Southern Colorado, and Northern New Mexico. I dont usually meter, but I do

bracket. I use a Pentax 67 , and of course 120 film. I have been using Kodak

D76 developer, and Rodinal, as film developers. I would appreciate any advice

on picking a film and developer, that I can easily process myself.Thanks for

your time. Bill

The original thread had to do with a commitment to photography. There are those that are commited to it as an art form etc,and those that are not. I personally dont care what anyone does. But if you are going to commit to the craft then do it. Snapshots are fine, the world is full of them. If that makes you happy go for it. My point is that, there is a difference between Aunt Millie framed so her feet are cut off, in the backyard barbequeing, and Moon over Hernandez. Bill

It has taken a long time for photography to be considered an art form, along side scuplture, painting, etc. There was a time, not to long ago when it was difficult or imposable to have your photos hung in any gallery. The tools are unimportant, but the difference between a photographer and a person that takes snapshots is obvious. There is a huge difference between someone that composes and plans a photo and someone that shoots 300 shots in a mornings time. Digital plays into this attiude because of its ability to save that number of shots. Whatever you choose to use, take the time to shoot something that is interesting, dynamic, and shows your style. Otherwise you are simply taking snapshots. There is a difference. Bill

Thank You

I have run into a problem on the last two rolls of film I have processed. Upon

removing the 35 mm film from the canister the film does its best to unwind and

rewind itself in the opposite direction. I am not sure I explaining this in a

clear and prcise manner. The film I have processed up untill now unrolls from

the canister and loosely sits in the same direction it was rolled unto the

spool. The last two rolls act as if they were rolled in the opposite direction

and when removed from the canister they try to unroll. They are also rolled

very tightly. This makes them very difficult to wind onto the film holder in my

developing tank. I have developed about fifty rolls of this same film from the

same order and have not had this problem until now. I could use some advice on

how to deal with this and hopefully how to prevent it. Thanks Bill

I have been advised of a technique of over exposing your film by 3 or 4 stops

and then underdeveloping the film when processing. This is supposed to expand

the range of the film and bring out detail in the shadows. Under developing the

film is supposed to stop the highlights from blocking out. Has anyone used this

process and if so can you provide any hints. Thanks Bill