jeffrey_scott

I use both tilt and swing fairly often to enhance depth of field and to exagerate foreground to background relationships. Probably the only time I will not use them is when there is a foreground object, such as a tree, going from top to bottom in my composition that part of would end up out of focus were I to utilize tilt.

If you look at the Ebony website under [cameras > made to order] you will find a hybrid 23S/SW23 that may be exactly what you are looking for!

Go to http://www.stopwatches.com/ and you will find all kinds of things that may work for you.

I do not have a scanner so I have not posted any photographs. You can see some of my images in B&W Magazine in some of the ads for Labwork - The Black & White Lab. Also there should be a "Spotlight" feature on me in a future issue of B&W where you can see my work.

I agree with David, I have done some testing when I had my CP and development was definitely uneven and it fills and drains really slowly. Get the Jobo Expert drum and a motor base, absolutely the best way to go!

Armin,

 

Amen !!! Peace to you brother.

I have a Durst Neonon 105 and a Rodenstock Rodagon 105 both of which fully cover 4x5 and do work well up to 16x20 and if the corners are not extremely important will also go 20x24! So go ahead and give it a try. It most likely will be better for 11x14 or smaller due to the image circle getting bigger with smaller print sizes.

Call me at Labwork - The Black & White Lab to discuss your needs for a lab that can handle 5x7. 216/621-7567

Boy, you guys are NASTY, I love it!!!!!!!!!!!! Keep it up. Is your wife good looking? She can find a good lover to enjoy while you are involved with YOUR new love!

I have used TMX 100 because of it's nice tonal qualities(at least to me, some do not like it) and it's very favorable long exposure quality; the reciprocity characteristics are quite good if you do a lot of longer exposures over one second. Since the availability of the film in Readyload I have used that exclusively because it sure is a lot easier carrying 60 sheets of film and one holder versus 6 cutfilm holders with only 12 sheets of film in about the same space!

15' doesn't sound too much like infinity to me. Are you sure that is correct?

Mark,

 

I had the same issues as you concerning the 45SU. The roughness is because the coefficient of friction is high with titanium sliding against itself; just get a silicon lubricant and use it VERY sparingly on the parts that slide (shift and swing components). It will make a world of a difference. The focus is not rough, that is very nice. As to the shaky front standard, it is not really shaky it is just not stiff because there is not much rail left slid under the titanium bars when fully extended so it tends to droop but in practice I have not found this to be a hindrence. I did take off my strap handle and I use the titanium loops left over as a means of clipping my focusing cloth to them with large black metal office clips. If you had a chance to compare the asymmetrical back with a regular axis tilt and swing back you would realize the advantages to the asymmetrical feature. I have owned and or used a great many different view cameras over the years and all have had some compromise or quirk in one feature or another; the 45SU is my final purchase, enough said!

I have tested both of these films and found the Bergger to need an ISO of 50 compared to 200 for HP5+.

You can't get there from here! Enjoy the above suggestions and wait till Spring. Another place to check out is Fossil Falls which is South of Lone Pine on Cinder Road near a large cinder cone off of Rt.395. One year we went to Mono Lake and hiked the trail going around the rim of Panum Crater just South of the lake. Convict Lake is another area you might want to check out South of Mammoth.

Wm. Mitchell,

 

Is this decision similar to that of choosing between Dark Chocolate and Milk Chocolate? ;-))

I want to wish every one here a very Happy New Year and may it be more prosperous for us all and hopefully one where we can all be more generous and caring to one another; we are really one big family here!

Sounds like you want an Arca-Swiss Metric series camera. It is upgradeable to different film formats and has geared rise and shift on both front and rear standards. If you didn't need the geared movements I would suggest what several of us here have, the Ebony 45SU which would be very easy to set up as it is a non-folding field camera. It has extensive movements and has asymmetrical rear tilt and swing which is very handy for getting the depth of field movement done quickly. As it is a 4x5 camera you just use your Sinar roll film back to do the 6x9 but the camera is almost as compact as a 6x9 camera, probably more compact than the A-S actually. The focusing screen is the brightest I have ever seen so viewing is a joy. I have used mine with lenses ranging from a 58XL to a 500 tele. Another plus is the bellows that has a built in bag on the front of it that does not require an accessory bag bellows to be purchased for the extreme wide angle work. I could use a 35mm lens on it if I had one.

I went through a similar decision making process and ended up with the 45SU because I did not want to buy another camera down the road. Yes it is worth all the money I paid and then some because of the flexibility of this particular model and ease of set up. It will handle extreme WA(35mm) to 500 tele lenses without having to buy any accessories such as extension backs or top hat lensboards (something you will need to do with the 45S) and compresses very compactly for backpacking. The extra expense for the asymmetrical back and non-folding features are things I justified as these make field work a breeze and I am not wanting for anything. As a long term investment spend as much as you can and not have to say in the future to yourself, "if only I got the..." You won't be sorry you got the 45SU, it should be thought of as a final purchase, then you only have to think about image making and not about equuipment.

David,

 

I am refering to the various posts regarding bracketing exposures begun with Scott's comment about bracketing in his question.

 

Scott,

 

You just proved my point! GROW UP!!!!!!!!

I agree with Vince, shoot an even middle grey surface for testing even development. I did this with a Jobo 3010 Expert drum to test it's evenness. I used a grey Seamless that I lit evenly, then I got fairly close to the paper and set my camera out of focus to ensure no texture in the subject will be seen. Once the film was processed I used a densitometer to test the neg and found it to be within .02 density throughout the neg, amazing!! I highly recommend these Expert drums from Jobo, a bit expensive but well worth it. They are easy to load also and processing film becomes less of a chore.

A truly experienced photographer should know his/her tools well enough to make proper exposures, therefore bracketing is a crutch to those not in command of the process. For those new to photography, such as you, it can help in the learning process as long as they keep notes to track what is going on exposurewise. By the way, from reading your various responses to others here you seem rather immature. Why do you give others grief and piss people off just because they may not agree with you or make an joking comment about something you may say? If you can't be positive don't say anything, please.

If you can find one, try the Sekonic L-228 Zoom Spot Meter. It has a variable acceptance angle from 8.2-28 degrees. This meter was around in the '80's.

How does one pay off a $3000.00 lens in less than a year at less than $100.00/month?

:-)

Eugene,

 

At what point is a person ready for Fibre Base paper? Is it a Zen thing or does it have to do with "The Force"?