HK71

While I was making plans for investing on Leica M10, the new Leica 10M-P arrival seemed to be something I need to consider. If the prices were same, I definitely consider new -P version but I don’t think touchscreen and quite shutter is something I would be investing on. Even M bodies are very silent compared to most of the street cameras. With additional 700 Euros, I would rather investing on better lens than touch screen gimmicks. Even I do not mention red dot graphic games on body design.

Sometimes... Colors are much more appealing even I am keen on B&W street photography.

I feel challenged to follow your arguing.

I am barely ever that close to interesting people that I'd miss the chance to step back to capture an imagined entire scene. with my 50mm on M8. - Why does one get that close at all?

Next even bigger issue: If there is no time for framing, why should there be time to get something focused at f1.4? - I recommend drawing a higher shutter speed requirement from the ISO setting not from the aperture. Take a look at some DOF calculator and see what you'll be up to with using f1.4 instead of 2.8. - It can be done sometimes, but I'd keep the RF patch on the subject's eye and spray & pray.

as much as I like the Leica M system: For shooting 50mm @ f1.4 by habit, I'd rather have something else. - Sony maybe? - I'm surely not enthusiastic about trying such with EOS 5D IV.

Dear Jochen;

Since M8 has crop factor issue, you definetely can't guess exact frame when shooting. So you -sometimes- can not realize how much you approached to the main subject for critic shots. Secondly, as I mentioned earlier, I want to use higher shutter speed than general recommended values -since I want pin sharp images. To get that, -Since I hate noisy upgraded ISO pictures- I want to solve the light issue with lens, instead of ISO setting.

Thanks for your comments by the way.

If you are using a 50mm with M8, it sounds like your current shooting preference is for longer focal lengths. Are you happy with this, or would you like a wider angle of view? As Wouter says, only you can make the decision about what is right for you. I also like to have a range, and so I chose (for my film M) older lenses, which allowed me to fit a 35mm, 50mm and 90mm lenses into a budget smaller than the cost of a single current lens. But if you prefer the modern lenses, you might be best off to try a few different focal lengths (and possibly different versions - eg do you really need a Lux over a cheaper Cron; again a purely personal decision) before spending a sizeable amount on a single lens. Good luck!

Dear Rajmohanfotograf; I am definitely not happy with 50mm on M8, since my focal length is really limiting me with quick shots, in which "there isn't a second chance" circumstances. Since frame lines marks very small portion of the frame on M8, I certainly need wider angle of view. But certainly it would be wider on a full frame M10 if you compare with M8 because of the crop factor. Because of this, I really consider 50 summilux also not to miss portrait shots.

I prefer to upgrade Summarit to summilux because of my higher shutter speed requirement (I want pin sharp details), without increasing ISO even with far better higher ISO performance of M10 versus M8.

With 35mm summicron -because of wider of angle advantage- I think speed will be secondary issue.

So you see it is a hard decision for me since I will be investing only on one prime lens. :)

Hakan Karademir

I think your photography is definitely suited to something smaller than 40mm equivalent

So you saw my uploaded pictures?

Why not keep the Summarit for now and see how you get on with it? That will give you the best idea of how a 50 works for you on full frame, and you can always trade it in for something faster or wider later.

Richard that's great idea. I like this platform even because of these valuable opinions. I can get rid of M8 and see what really meets my requirements on the long run. Thanks alot.

Dear Friends;

I will try to keep it simple: I am Leica M8 user. I will be selling my M8 and 50mm Summarit. I will be upgrading to Leica M10 very soon. I have a very limited budget. After Leica M10, I can afford only one life time lens. Options in my mind are 50mm Summilux or 35mm Summicron. On the long run I am not sure which one will do the job for good, since M10 is full frame and M8 was not. Which one do you think will be "the lens" for me. I really like street photography. I both shoot portraits and scenery. Which lens do you think will be enough as stand alone.

 

And last cliche question before my purchase: Silver or Black, which M10 would you choose and why?

 

Your comments appreciated in advance.

 

Hakan Karademir

MODERATOR NOTE:

Please do not start the same thread in different forums:

Those who want to respond see here: {LINK}

 

Dear Friends;

I will try to keep it simple: I am Leica M8 user. I will be selling my M8 and 50mm Summarit. I will be upgrading to Leica M10 very soon. I have a very limited budget. After Leica M10, I can afford only one life time lens. Options in my mind are 50mm Summilux or 35mm Summicron. On the long run I am not sure which one will do the job for good, since M10 is full frame and M8 was not. Which one do you think will be "the lens" for me. I really like street photography. I both shoot portraits and scenery. Which lens do you think will be enough as stand alone.

 

And last cliche question before my purchase: Silver or Black, which M10 would you choose and why?

 

Your comments appreciated in advance.

 

Hakan Karademir

I have a Sekonic L758D and I use EOS 5D series Cameras. <br><br>

 

The Sekonic, for my uses is: <br><br>

 

> invaluable for Studio Flash work; <br>

 

> useful for outdoors Flash as Fill; <br>

 

> handy for incident Light Meter Readings, (this can be equally achieved using a Photographic Grey Card and the TTL Meter on a 5D – which is a technique I also use). <br><br>

 

For me -the other invaluable use of the Sekonic is the Spot Meter: a 5DMkIII has a Spot Meter Mode – but note that is NOT “Spot Metering” firstly it is ‘weighted’ and secondly it a percentage area of the viewfinder – hence lens’s Focal Length dependent: all EOS Cameras’ Spot Metering is the same except for the fact that the percentage area of the viewfinder might be different. <br><br>

 

I do use Spot Metering (both the Canon TTL and the Sekonic) quite often especially for static scenes such as Architectural Interiors and Landscapes; the benefit of the Sekonic is its known accuracy and that the reading is non-dependent on the lens that I have mounted on the camera. <br><br>

 

I certainly think that an Hand Held Meter is NOT a necessity for general Photography and with the computing power and excellence of TTL Meters nowadays and the availability of AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing), I could just as easily do away with my Spot metering techniques and manual computation technique – but I have the gear and I like doing it that way, sometimes. <br><br>

 

I think that you should give serious thought to the money that you would spend on a Sekonic and whether you would get value out of the uses that I mentioned – from a purely practical value for money point of view I think that one would not consider buying any Sekonic unless one was doing a lot of Studio Flash work – and then buy a really good Sekonic with hi-tech and comprehensive Flash Metering Functionality.<br><br>

 

WW

Dear William;

First of all, thanks for your comments about the matter. I really find them useful. Since I am really considering to improve and evaluate my flash photograpghy, I think a proper lightmeter would help me in most of the future cases with a flashgun. Since I do not like post processing so much and.keen of "as it is photography" -as an analogue/old school amateur- I rather would like to focus on preparation of a proper shot than post processing of it. I would like to take the advantage of incident reading of light meter for fill in flash photography, such as the one I attached here.

 

Hakan

 

Is it worth to invest on a Sekonic meter L-558/L-758 with my canon EOS 5D Mark3. Although I am an experienced one, I am still an amateur photographer. So for the possible question; the answer is "no I do not take photos for living, it's still a hobby". I shoot outdoors generally. I like portraits and I am sure it will be effective during portrait shoots. Do you have any experience with 5DMark3 and Sekonic meters together. How does the Mark3' metering cope with Sekonic L-558. (ıN Spot, Avarage etc readings)Do you think in spite of technological improvements of Mark3'S advance metering do I still need a seperate light meter?

Thanks in advance for the comments, especially experinced user with the above mentioned duo.

 

Cheers;

Hakan Karademir<br>

<b><i> Moderator Note: Image removed - you may only post only images that you made yourself</i></b>

<p>Dear Wouter;<br>

I am very far now from Nikon era. So my comments on the Nikon's 20 mm Autofocus lens belongs to a period of, at least 10 years ago from now. So, yes I am sure Nikon has produced far much better products in its product line. But till now, I haven't seen or read any spectecular lens in terms of price performance ratio for the Canon's side on this level. If price is not issue I am sure new lenses like 11-24 EF f/4 USM is worth to consider even it is not a prime. But I do not need a bulky 1,2 kg lens either, while trying to enjoy street photography. Even as a Leica user after using a M body, a digital SLR is a burden for a person who is taking photos as an amateur and hobby purposes. </p>

<p>Dear Les,<br>

Thanks for your comment. What do you mean by different coloration, could you please explain? And a nice pic of terraces, congrats.</p>

<p>Dear Friends;<br /> I am considering a wide angle around 20mm for my 5DMark3. As a former Nikon user, if there was one piece of my kit that I will never forget on performance basis, it would be my Nikon 20mm f/2,8. With it is bargain price and exceptional over all performance, it was like a dream using it on my F6. Even my friend of mine, -who has been motivated with the performance of the Nikon's 20mm-, decided to have Canon version, 20mm EF f/2,8 for his Canon body. But unfortunately he was bitterly regreted for his decision when he has seen the huge performance between the two.<br /> So as a current 24-70 f/2,8 owner I need something wide, and I am now at the same crossroad for the same decision. I feel the lack of the joy of an ultrwide in my photographic life and want to invest on something on similar. So what would be the decision. A newcomer Sigma 20 f/1,4 DG HSM ART lens, one of the new 16-35s(mk2 or f/4 IS version)? To tell you the truth I am always suspicious about the performance of the zoom lenses versus primes. I always used to try the "edges" of the wide angle photography to add an exceptional emotion for my photographic work.<br /> Your comments are welcomed. Would be greatful if you spend little time to see my portfolio to see my wide angle work for further guidance about your thoughts.<br /> Thanks in advance for your comments and your time.<br /> Cheers,<br /> Hakan Karademir</p>

Dear William, thanks for the response. I will consider renting the lens -yes it is possible and not so difficult to rent

photographic equipments in Turkey.

Dear Friends,

I would like to get your opinion about replacing my 24-70 2,8L with the newer version 24-70 2,8 L II. I own Canon 5d mark3 and 70-200

f/4 IS accompanying this lens. I have taking photos for 30 years by now. I own Leica M and Canon SLR kits. Is there any technical major

advantages about performance of the combination(Lens and mark3 body) in terms of faster, accurate auto focus and metering? Should it

be considered as a major upgrade from old version to the newer one in terms of quality of the pics? There is a quite price difference

between two as you know. While I am a serious amateur photographer, since I am not professional photographer who is earning money

for his life from photography, I have a doubt about investing on the newer model. On the other hand while my current lens has a good

second hand market, perhaps trading the old lens with the newer one would be a good choice for the rest of my amateur photo life. Your

valuable comments are appreciated, thanks in advance for your time.

 

Regards,

Hakan Karademir

Dear Friends,

I am in Amsterdam and having great time with my new baby 5DMarkiii :) It is really focusing in a blink of an eye, and

shutter fires as soon as you press down the release. There is no any kind if shutter lag, slowness or whatsoever which

would cause you to miss a shot. What a nice camera, working flawlessly and just sat in my hands beautifully. I really

impressed with its autofocus and I clearly see now how AF of mk3 is far better from 6d since I had a chance to try both in

the shop before I finalize my purchase.

Thanks for your interest in my forum topic, they were all helpful and made my decision much more easy than ever. You're

great, as I said before, do not stop clicking! ;)

Regards,

Hakan

Dear both body owners, are we talking here a huge difference in AF performance between two bodies? If not, then 6D

seems to be ok for the job. Do I really have to pay extra 1200 Usd price difference for a better build body quality and

slighty faster and accurate AF? And one more question, are both bodies sealed against wet weather conditions?

Thanks in advance for your valuable opinions.

 

Hakan

Dear Jamie, I am totally agree with you... about 6D's performance which would be sufficent for candid photography but

only under one condition: Leica M8 has a manual focus and it is always much more easier with such a top notch

rangefinder to focus than a SLR :)

<p>Dear Leon thanks for your comments about the topic and thanks for your compliments about my lenses. I always follow the rule, "have the best glass, instead of having the best box(body)" so I am planning to purchase a 85 f/1,2L as a present for my self in the near future ;) The next body I will purchase, should retire me, so I must decide properly. I was satisfied with my old Canon 1Ds Mk1, I hope I got the best results with my next body.</p>

 

Dear friends;

I need your opinion and -if you have any, for both- your experiences about 6d vs 5D markiii. I am planning to purchase of one of these

FF bodies next week. I have 24-70 L f/2,8 and 70-200 f/4 IS. I shoot lanscape, portrait, candid street photography. I do not like carrying

flashgun with me so low light performance matters since I use Leica M8 also for discreet street photography. As I've read before in

several articles, AF speed of markiii is the best around, sure it is important for candid photography.

Please shoot out your valuable experiences, your thoughts matters!

Keep on clicking ;)

H A K A N<div></div>

Hi to you All!

I will be upgrading my Canon Eos 1Ds(Mark 1) in the near future. I'am considering 5D Mark2 and 6D. Since 5D Mark2 is very well known

in terms of its proven reliability and 6D is full of high end improved specs shared with 5DMark3, Iam very confused. I have Leica M8 for

discreet street photography so this will be my final investment for a very long time. I have 24-70 F/2,8L and 70-200 F/4L IS lenses, so

body should be full frame. I shoot street, portrait, event photography. I really do not die for GPS and Wi-Fi specs for 6D but high ISO

performance really gets me. I don't know if I would look for 6D's high ISO performance in the future, if I decide mark2. Please share me

your recommendations, they are very important for me.

 

Cheers;

 

Hakan Karademir

Harry thanks for your response. What does radio control features for? Are these features related with connecting slave

flash units and control them from 600EX wirelessly for multiple ligthening conditions?

 

Thanx in advance;

Hakan

Hi All!

Any flash recommendation for my 1Ds Mark 1 camera? Since I only purchase equipment in extremely good condition, I am also

considering brand new Canon 600EX-RT instead of 550EX -which is fully compatible with my 1Ds-. Is it worth to buy 600EX instead of

550EX or 580EX, 580EXII? Can use most of the functions of these newer models? What is your suggestion? I can upgrade to 5D MarkII

in the future also.

 

Thanks for your comments, cheers;

 

Hakan

Hi All,

just simple: limited budget to company my 50mm summarit to be used with M8 in street photography. Any "the one and the only"

wideangle lens advise for M8? I'm considering 28mm f/2,8 Zeiss Biogon and 28mm Voigtlander f/2 Ultron. I would appreciate any

experiences with any of these two.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hakan

<p>Dear Carl;<br>

Thank you for your reference pics. I think with M8, the performance of the 21mm would be much more better. I am really wondering the performance of Voigtlander 24 f/2 Ultron. Because 35mm is "the lens" for classic M6-M7, its my favorite. The focal length 24mm would be 32mm because of the crop factor. I do not really prefer a wider focal length, because I want to use it for candid portraits and sometimes I want to come little bit closer to the people.<br>

Dear Berg,<br>

I haven't heard color artifacts and vignetting about Zeiss M lenses till now. I will search about this issue.<br>

Dear John;<br>

I have read Ken Rockwell's site once about this issue. I am aware of his warnings about rear nodal point. I don't know if the situation is the same with 24mm f/2,0 Ultron. My ideal lens in my mind is also 28 f/2,8 but it has not reasonable price for me to consider for now. If I can sell my 50mm f/2,5 summarit then I would -certainly- consider 28 f/2,8. Ken insists on that even its better than summicron version.</p><div></div>