lostfx

try memories on TV

http://www.codejam.com/

Here is the link: http://www.henrys.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/PageDisplay?dest=frames.jsp&currency=CAD&storeId=10001

I bought SONY charged and batteries at HENRY's. The batteries are 2500 I believe, the beauty is that they are charged in 15 minutes.

Thanks Mark, I will fix those tags.

Kari, there is a script that should detect if the person viewing your website has FLASH installed. If yes, it will automatically show him the FLASH version, if not it will show him the static HTML version. So you don't really need splash page, but if you want you can have a splash page. Also the HTML version is hooked to the same admin site that your existing flash website. So if you need to modify the content, you do it only once and it will reflect in both versions.

 

Send an email to the guy about pricing but I believe that you will be very happy.

 

Dusan

Hi, guys!

 

I know that many of us had a trouble of getting static HTML website

mirror image of the flash version site. I found the soulution. Check

it out. My Flash is http://www.mayaphotostudio.ca and static HTML

version: http://www.mayaphotostudio.ca/html/

 

I think it looks pretty decent. If you like it and would like to have

mirror image in HTML of your Flash website contact Roman:

roman.urban@rogers.com

 

There is also embeded script that checks if the user has flash

installed and if not it automatically displays HTML version.

I tried the Asuka Book and I was very pleased with the result. The only problem is that it takes month and 2 weeks to have album printed and delivered to Canada.

 

DD

I've got the Nikon UV filters (recommended by Vistek guy) for my L lenses, but I can see the quality degradation especially on highlighted subjects. In shade it is OK, but well lit subjects got something like chromatic aberation.

I did some tests on my 50mm 1.4 lens, with and without UV filter (some other brand). I did night shots and I compared the images, and quality difference was significant. With UV filter on, chromatic aberation on the street lamps was extreme, compared to the picture taken without UV filter.

 

DD

I meant that usually there is specified number of images for B&G, for parents of B&G, etc. All these are in certain sizes like 10x8 or 10x10 or 5x7, etc.

I was just wondering if you automatically submit these B&G pictures in album that B&G choose and the price for that Album is covered in each package (without mentioning it on price list), or as already mentioned in the post above, you just give them the images in a box or envelope. Or if they decide to go with the album, you just charge them for the album itself on top of that package thay have chosen. Because that is what I want to do, I'm just wondering what is the most typical or common business practise in regards to regular art leather type albums.

 

Thanks.

Hi, guys!

 

I would like to ask you rather trivial question. When you specify

certain amount of images for Bride & Groom in your package, does that

mean that these will be automatically handed to them in album at the

date of delivery? Or you just give them candid pictures in the

envelope? And after that they may choose at additional cost which

type of album they want to have these pictures in?

 

I'm offering only digital / magazine style albums, but for those

customers who want to have a choice of common (Art Leather) style of

albums I'm not quite sure how that works.

 

Thank you,

 

Dusan D.

Thanks a lot guys.....

 

DD

Hi, guys!

 

What type of picture paper your customers prefer? Matte or Glossy? I

know it depends on quality of the either paper and how it renders the

colors. But business wise, I would like to know what kind end user

(customer) prefers.

 

Thanks.

 

Dusan

Hi, guys!

 

What is the most ideal Color Temp for fluorescent lights to have

installed in studio? That gives you the best neutral viewing

conditions?

 

Thanks.

 

DD

Hi, guys!

 

Thanks a lot for all your input. Normally, I have my pictures printed at one of the high quality professional lab, where it was never a problem. However, I was looking for some alternative resp. backup photo lab in this slow time of the year. And these guys are telling me things (like the ones mentioned in my post) that I never heard or I was taught the opposite. So I got confused, especially when I saw my images printed at their lab.

I completely agree with your opinion. I think the same that color rendering is based on lighting conditions and WB. I have also calibrated my monitor with Spyder 2 and there is looks fine, but from the photo lab that I'm testing now, some pics are OK and some are blue and dark. They want to corect them for me. It's not about the money to pay for color correction but when they reduce cyan and add red, the skin color looks pinky - red. It looks kind of OK under their lights at the store, but looks very warm when I have a detail look at home.

Hi, guys!

 

I would like to hear your opinion on these issues:

 

1.) Canons are generally always having bluish skin and I should

reduce CYAN to improve it before sending color corrected images to

print shop.

 

2.) Shoot wedding on medium size in JPEG, don't bother with RAW it is

too much time spent for nothing, since average customer can't really

say the image has a bad skin color unless he is a photographer. All

exposure problems can be equally corrected in photoshop as opposed to

ACR.

 

3.) Use sRGB colorspace since it is best for skin color and

sufficient enough for wedding pictures.

 

I'm not saying it is right or wrong, but everybody is saying

something else and I'm getting just confused.

 

So far, I really like shooting RAW and having the ability to correct

all RAW pictures with one mouse click, doesn't consume so much time

anyway.

 

In terms of sRGB or Adobe RGB, one photo lab is telling me use sRGB

the other one Adobe RGB. I'm for Adobe RGB.

 

Please give me some of your useful hints...

 

Thanks,

 

Dusan

Combined and masked version....<div></div>

corrected for outside... (see the window in background)<div></div>

Ok, here are examples. It is actually combination of tungsteen light and daylight. Here is the extreme example, but for illustration purposes it is the best I have. First picture is corrected for proper skin color, but the outside (thru window in the back looks too blue). The next one is corrected for outside, but the skin looks too yellow/magenta - crazy warm. The third one is masked out. It is not perfect, but good enough for this example.

 

Dusan<div></div>

I forgot to add that the best thing around this is (as somebody already mentioned) to convert it to B&W and the problem is solved. :-)

I will post the picture once I get home, so you guys have an idea what I'm talking about. I was just wondering, if I can't just use a simple math to figure out close enough color temp number. I mean you add tunsgteen temp + flash temp and average these 2 numbers. The reason is that as I was trying to move color temp slider back and forth in ACR to compensate it, I've got somewhere where it actually was acceptable. It is very tricky, because if you are shooting for example in small church with your flash on and off, then you end up with walls having a different color in each case. It is not such a big deal if you look at those pictures individually, but if you lay them down next to each other then you might have a problem.

Thank you guys for all your hints. I just want to point out, that I want to keep spot tungsteen lights in the scene since I want to keep the ambient atmosphere present. But if the ceiling is low it creates harsh shadows especially on people's faces staying close by. But I would like to have my flash light temperature the same as tungsteen light, so it mixes nicely. The equipment used is Canon 20D with 24-105 f4.0 lens and 580EX flash.

 

Maybe that gel would do it.

 

 

Thanks.

 

Dusan

Hi, guys!

 

I would like to know how you deal with this problem. Imagine that you

have to shoot bride dressing up in room where are strong (tungsteen?)

spot lights. You also want to use your flash for fills. How do you

appropriatelly adjust the white balance? If you adjust it for flash

only, everything else that is not lit by flash will become abnormally

warm, if you adjust for tungsteen, then everything that is flash lit

will become cold (blue). The only way around that I found is to shoot

in RAW, and then adjust Color Temp for FLASH, then save it and then

save another copy with tungsteen adjusted and then mask those two.

 

Is there a beter way of doing it?

 

Thank you.

 

DD

I played with trial lite version and I like it, so I plan to get a Pro version. I'm just wondering if anybody is using it for quite a while.

 

DD

It looks like nobody is using it here for album design....

 

DD

Hi, guys!

 

Is anybody using Pixel Creator Pro for designing wedding story

albums? I like it, but I just would like to know how it works in real

world. I like the speed and flexibility.

 

DD