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giidii

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Posts posted by giidii

  1. <p>your link doesn't work due to the spaces; this leads to the same page (with different title):<br>

    <a href="http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/tag/tri-elmar/">http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/tag/tri-elmar</a><br>

    I did my tests with a E55 MATE. it is not a zoom since the focus isn't continous. turning from 50 to 28mm, close to 28mm it suddenly snaps into 28mm and the macro-mode is gone.<br>

    The easiest, fastest, reliable way to get good results in shooting macro with TriElmar is to set aperture priority mode, ISO to 320 if sunny, distance to 1m, f/4 to provide for precise focus through electronic view finder while turning focal length between 50mm and 28mm, shoot (great bokeh), optionally stop down aperture for more DoF, shoot again.<br>

    (For someone like me who worked a lot with Visoflex, it is puzzling that the VF doesnt dimm down when closing the aperture.)<br>

    works great on any MFT-cam. with right eye on VF, the left eye sees the f-stops. I shot all photos in the album without tripod. you only need a EVF, MFT/LM-adapter (I use panasonic/lumix). should also work with Leica M240. only a little bit more expensive than a PEN. ;)<br>

    > When you have 28mm and 50mm, do you need 35mm?<br>

    from my experience, yes. and even or more so with MFT' crop factor 2. used both in the album's sheep photos.<br>

    *<br>

    I also tried (without Visoflex!) Leitz Bellows ii with Elmar 3.5/65mm [and extension tube] on MFT with VF-4. great results. but heavy and less suitable since when bellows moves to get the object closer, one needs to move the position of the camera too to get focus back. (this problem is not related to MFT)</p>

    <div>00ca5g-548211584.thumb.jpg.d4e78d84ed35f3372ec0fb73d7beb8ac.jpg</div>

  2. <p>Someone ever tried the Tri-Elmar f4/35-50-28mm (at the time, it was my favorite on M6) on a MFT camera? it was not conceived as a macro- nor zoom-lens but works brilliantly as such ... surprise - at focus position about the middle between 50 and 28mm, see results: <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/109835740008203764793/20140412MFTLeicaMAdapterTriElmarBetween5028mmFocusMacroTestNoBellowsNoDistanceRings">link</a></p><div>00ca2I-548201984.thumb.jpg.4c2ab09fe5d5f1733a2a9fd9440c948c.jpg</div>
  3. <p>Knut - I didn't yet notice that the statue de la vièrge Marie is standing on the flash! :)<br>

    p.s.: The "kimono belt" is a just a woolen bandeau (do you call it Stirnband? - to keep the head warm - the photo was taken in February in a so-called cave-chapell (Grottenkapelle) located in the mountains, the outside rocks were covered with ice.</p>

  4. <p>> The Olympus Epic is the finest snapshooter</p>

    <hr />

    <p>don't forget to always set to +1 (or what the correct correction?) if using velvia 50 (the old one) because this film effectively has only 40 ASA.</p>

    <p>additionally from the tests I made I found that the 35/2.8 lens of the Mju-II (as the Epic is called in Europe) can't match a quality lens like leica summicron 35/2 asph. I know, a few years ago ken rockwell recommended the Epic as the cheapest 10Mpix camera (film&scan).<br>

    So I bought a new Mju-ii to check it out. Shortly after I sold it. Maybe it works better with negative film but I use velvia 50 only. (one note: the lens in the old Mju-i is probably better. I later also tried a Konica big-mini as p&s. I liked it more than Mju-II, but also abandoned it as second camera. For 35mm film I use M6 only. before and after the p&s adventure.)</p>

  5. if nine was ten ...

    <p>

    the successor of M8 will be called M10, because 9 is outside the "octagesimal" number system which Leica adopted for M-numbering as a usually reliable source close to the truth pointed out:

    <br><center>"See, thus it's done!<br>

    Make ten of one,<br>

    And two let be,<br>

    Make even three,<br>

    And rich thou 'It be.<br>

    Cast o'er the four!<br>

    From five and six<br>

    (The witch's tricks)<br>

    Make seven and eight,<br>

    'Tis finished straight!<br>

    And <b>nine is one</b>,<br>

    And <b>ten is none</b>.<br>

    This is the witch's once-one's-one!"</center> <br><small><a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/14591">-- JWvG</a></small><div>00T1Fo-123469584.jpg.6325b3379f648258eca27a2f333021f8.jpg</div>

  6. In the fall, when I shot Velvia 50 with Mamiya RB67 (65mm and 180mm lenses, always with tripod and mirror-up exposure), I used a M6 (with 50mm lens) set to 40 ASA as light meter and not only it was a lot of fun, I also got very good results! but before I practiced with a M6 for many years - and I'll keep both sets.

    -- g.

  7. Hi Jay, you wrote

     

    <ul><i>However for quick-and-dirty macro work, one can always just mount a regular M lens on a Visoflex, which acts as an extension tube. The best lens for this I've found is the current 90 Elmarit, whose close-up performance is on a par with infinity.</i></ul>

     

    <p>I've checked the magnification of VF and M-90/2.8.

    at infinity (which is where all lenses should be set when used in macro, I've read [in the Leica docs?]) it is 1:2.1, which is bigger than the closest you get with a Elmar 65/3.5 at 1:2.4 (or 1:1.2 if used with 16471J but DOF is then going down heavily even at f/22).

    <p>

    The problem with direct M-lens VF mount is that with the M-90/2.8 it's always fixed object distance (macro focus is infinity setting) and so must move the camera to focus.

    <p>

    <p>I assume you know all this but I wanted to clarify for other [potential] VF users.

    <p>With a scale I've measured other lenses directly mounted on VF2[a], each set at infinity:

    <ul>

    <li>with 75/1.4 magnification is about 1:1.7

    <li>with 50/1.4asph magnification is about 1:1.2 (DOF is only about 4mm when stopped down)

    </ul>

    <p>The M-24/2.8, M-28/2.8, M-28/2asph, as well as M-35/2asph can not be mounted on VF because they reach to far into the VF.

    <p>As a heavy VF user, I agree that the VF lever is useless and can be removed. I always put the cable release directly on the camera release.

  8. Hello,

    <br />

    Thanks for all your advice - it's overwhelming!

    <p>I'm still studying - I don't know yet what film format is best from a price perspective.

    <p>When searching for Arca, I found the

    <p>Arca Swiss Misura? 9x12-4"x5" Monorail "Field" View Camera

    <p>which weights only 2kg and costs "only" about $4000.

    <p>It's claimed to be "the most compact and lightest system monorail

    camera on the market."

    <br />Here is a link to a <a href="http://www.galerie-photo.com/arca-swiss-misura-us.html">review

    of the Misura</a> at galerie-photo.com

    <p>

    best, G. Dii

  9. Hello,

    <br />

    What concerns weight in comparison with 35mm format I compare with my current equipment which is rangefinder camera M6 or MP body with two lenses 35/2 asph, 24/2.8 asph, and Visoflex IIa (VF2a) adapter with loupe and Elmar 65mm/3.5 for close-up + tripod of course. (Viewfinder 35mm lenses are much smaller and lighter than equivalent SLR lenses. - This is why I sold the R8.)

    <p>The VF2a weights 227g.

    The straight loupe weights 86g (which is

    much lighter than a 90 degree prism weighting 215g).

    The Elmar 65/3.5 weights 300g.

    A small but very rugged tripod for close-up weights 380 g.

    <p>

    best

    <br />

    G. Dii

  10. Hello,

    <br />

    Thanks for all your replies, I can't catch up reading them and learning more about what your proposed, but I try hard and it'll take a while. I only hope I'll not have more questions than I started with ;)

    <p>

    Nobody yet mentioned "Zone VI 4x5 field view camera".

    <br />(I'm really sorry, but I still confuse the dimensions - some is centimeter some is inch. There seems not to be any consistency.)

    <p>

    best

    <br />

    G. Dii

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