paulhu54

The 'D' models have MSC(Mamiya Serial Communication), which works with digital backs. The AF model without the 'D' does not have communication with digital backs, no flash exposure compensation, no bracketing in manual mode, and few other things.

 

This is really a personal choice on which model you like. I have both the 645AFD and 645AFD II.

I have both the Mamiya 645AFD and 645AFDII. I bought them because of the compatibility with digital backs(even though I like film better). I like the 645AFDII's automatic focusing speed, center and spot metering system, electronic mirror lockup, auto bracketing, etc.

Hasselblad just announced the CFV digital back, and stated that it is compatible with 'all Hasselblad V System cameras manufactured since 1957'.

 

Phase One also has digital backs from H5 to the P45,that are compatible with all Hasselblad V(including 500CM) bodies.

 

I hope that this answers your question regarding whether you can put a digital back on a 500CM or not.

The New 645AFDII camera builds on the success of the original models, and now features 36 custom function settings, a new AF sensor, and some updated controls.

 

the 645AFD II offers a selective spot or wide focus area within its "| + |" CCD focus pattern sensor array, replacing the original 645AFD "| - |" CCD focus pattern sensor array.

 

Dedicated "Quick Action" buttons have also been designed into the 645AFD II for fast activation of such functions as multiple exposures, auto-bracketing, key lock, auto exposure lock and auto focus lock.

 

Electronic mirror up control vs. mechanical mirror up control.

 

AF system - TTL phase-difference detection type, 'normal' or 'spot'.

 

Shutter speed can be both set at 1/2 or 1/3 steps.

 

I cannot remember all the minor changes. www.mamiya.com should have something regarding the new improvements.

 

I have both the 645AFD and a recently purchased 645AFDII.

 

I did notice a slightly faster focusing speed with the 645AFDII than the 645AFD. I just had the 645AFDII for two weeks, so not enough time to fully check out the differences.

I purchased a spot-meter Kiev that has center weight and spot-metering. After calibrating against a Sekonic 558(Kiev was off about 1 1/2 stops), the metering is now very very good. The prism is also very clear and bright. No complains.

I just purchased a 55-110mm AF lens for my 645AFD, and I tested it this past weekend for a glamour workshop. The lens is of course heavier than the 80mm, but not untolerable. I compared a few images shot at f5.6, f/8, and f/11, and I could not tell the difference. Of course, my testing is by no means any kind of scientific way of testing. The lens may be a bit heavy for travelling lugging around your neck(I normally carry the 80mm lens for travelling). I will try to use the 55-110mm as my travel lens in April, and I'll let you guys know how my neck and back turn out after the trip.

This kind of question, I leave it to David Odess. But does the shape of aperture, or the number of blades make a difference in how we capture an image?

'Fuck for Peace' - MAG

 

Mag,

That was totally unnecessary. This is a forum where questions and discussions are related to medium format cameras, not medium human intelligence. Is your name MAG short for Maggot? Just curious.

Jeff,

Are you just using the waist level finder visually as metering, without setting the f-stop or shutter speed? If you do not use any kind of light meter, how do you know what to set, unless you use the sunny-16 rule for outside?

By NO means 30% off Dealer Cost. His prices,I think are discounted from Suggested Retail Price, which are a little below B&H and other internet camera stores' discounted price. I called and asked about Hasselblad 503CW body only, and was quoted $200 higher than Hasselblad website overstock inventory price. The prices he quoted me on Mamiya 645AFD II seems to be a little cheaper. The prices seem to be 30% off Suggested Retail Price(which no one sells at that price), rather than Dealer Cost.

I have Nikon film (F5, F6) and digital (D100, D2H). I recently purchased Mamiya 645AFD because of the easy availability of accessories, and Mamiya USA support is excellent. You can get magnifying adapters to put on the Mamiya 645AFD to help you with your eyesight. When people look at a photograph, they don't judge by the kind of lens that took the photograph, but the beauty of the photograph itself. Comparing sharpness of a lens and MTF data are for techies who care only about data NOT the photographs they take. I use whatever lens that I feel comfortable with to capture my image.

I bought a lot of camera equipment from KEH at "Excellent" rating. KEH base their rating on cosmetics. They guaranteed the items they sold work, otherwise return for an exchange. Their rating are pretty conservative, unlike some private ebay sellers, bargain items quoted as 'like new'. I heard from other users that items that David Odess sell are all guaranteed. His repair service and sale guarantee is the top, and his ratings are very accurate also. I'll try him next time.

Congratulations. I bought my 501CM kit, never used by seller, through ebay also, and I purchased the Pelican 1510 w/wheels. It took me about an hour to pluck the foam paddings in the case. Now I am also proud as a peacock with my camera, 80mm lens, 150mm lens, metered prism finder in the beautiful case. Of course, there is some more room for a 50mm lens and other accesories.

Hasselblad USA is offering a $99 CLA service (body, lens, and back) I don't know if this can cure some of your problem or not. While your system is getting serviced, they can give you an estimate on what addition repair is needed and the cost for repair.

"The meter comes with a plastic box and a base metal plate which can be slight modified to fit into the new 501CM as well. You may need to reset the meter pointer to zero position using a very small screwdriver."

 

I am interested in the modification to fit my 501CM. Can anyone guide me how to do it?

01/30/01 morning around 9:00am EST, I logged onto Mamiya USA's website, and the user forum is still trucking like before, as if nothing happened over the weekend.

I just purchased a Kiev Spot TTL prism. After re-calibration, the system works fine. The only time consuming thing is the calibration (10 minutes). I only re-calibrate the Spot metering on the prism against Sekonic 558 reflected Spot metering. For the price I paid on eBay ($87 NEW), it's not a bad deal.

I tried all morning, and NOTHING. May someone revive the forum.

I think a good combination is the 50-80-150. I borrowed my friend's 50CF FLE since Thanksgiving of 2005, and I just love it for nature and landscape phtos, and I still have not returned it yet (only when he remembers to ask for it).

If you don't like your 501CM and the lenses, I will take them off your hands to get your out of this mess. I will trade your Hassey with my Nikon D100 and a Nikon 70-300mm zoom lens.

For those of you having problems with camera set to 'P' mode and using TTL flash, the camera LCD will flash 1/60sec. and f/2.8 while you press the shutter relase half-way, following is your answer:

 

[The TTL flash metering works in any mode, however, when you are indoors and having the flash doing all of the lighting, "P" is not a good choice. What happens is that the camera restricts shutter speed to 1/60, but the aperture will probably go to maximum. Unless you intend to mix flash and ambient light, the auto-exposure modes are really designed for photography in existing light.

 

A better choice indoors would be "X". This keeps the shutter speed set to 1/125, the TTL system will allow only the correct amount of light to strike the film, regardless of aperture selected. Just be careful not to go beyond the limits of the flash. (using f/22 to shoot a group of 25 people is a good example; even at full strength, the flash's light will probably not be sufficiant)].

 

The above technical support infomration is from Mamiya website - Mamiya 645AFD user forum archives - using auto flash.

You can use the older Metz 54MZ-3 or the newer Metz 54MZ-4 with the SCA3952 on top of the hotshoe of the 645AFD. I have the Metz 54MZ-3 w/SCA3952 with my 645AFD, and it works great. I even use the Metz flash in Auto and Manual mode with my Nikon and Hasselblad cameras.

Don't believe everything you read. Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. Let others enjoy the images you take, not the equipment you use. It is the final product that counts, not the tools used to make the product.

 

Consumer Reports has horrible reviews/rating on Mercedes Benz, but I just love mine the way it is.

Why are you selling all those equipment? Are you going digital?

The histroty of 503cx started in 1989- while the 501CM is a newer model started in 1997-. The 501CM has the gliding mirror system(GMS), and the 503CX does not have the GSM. The 503CX has the TTL OTF flash metering, and the 501CM does not have any kind of metering.