cecil_kent

<p>I've used NN on and off for a few years. Maybe I need to upgrade my v2.1.3 Photoshop plug-in. It doesn't work that well for me. I shoot some theater work at 800 ISO on a D70s and haven't been elated with the results. Sometimes the noise is better, but the detail goes blurry. One of the reasons I'm upgrading to the D90 is because how it handles ISO grain. Less detail for less noise is a hard trade-off. Then again my ver. is older. I'm sure they've made improvements.</p>

<p>I just ordered a D90 this morning. Upgrading from my 4 year old D70s. More pixels, sharper LCD, new sensor, and low-noise ISO are the reasons. I shoot plays, and I could not get a fast shutter speed on the D70s to stop the action. Theater lighting is challenging. Before purchasing I checked all the specs. on dpreview. Excellent information on lens & cameras. <a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond90/">http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikond90/</a><br>

But I'm sure I'm not telling you guys anything new. I look forward to opening the box this weekend. BTW: I still love my D70s. With the f2.8, 70-200 lens...</p>

photo 2<div></div>

I took two test sessions on location before the actual shoot. I went with Aperture priority f2.8, 800 ISO, shot in RAW mode, post processing in PhotoShop and used Noise Ninja on the final photo. I wasn't too sure of how much to alter the temperature tweeking the RAW processing. AS SHOT always seemed too bright and saturated. Auto seemed a little bland. I finally went with AS SHOT, saved to .jpg and when sizing to 8"x10" clicked auto levels. I will include two of the final images.<div></div>

Thanks for the great information. I scheduled a test shoot for tomorrow morning. I will use my current 70-200 f2.8. I'm not used to shooting at such a slow speed. I'm used to sport photography. Never below 200. I'll knock the dust off my tripod and see how slow I can go. With my eyes, its hard for me to see blur on the LCD. I'll pick up a stronger pair of reading glasses before I shoot.

I have been asked to take photos of plays at our local opera house. Mostly for

the actors to purchase. My usual interest is sports. I believe I need a

faster lens because I cannot use a flash during the performances.

 

My current equipment is a D70s, 70-200 f2.8, 18-70 f4.5, SB800. I believe I

need a 1.4 or 1.8 lens. The 50mm 1.4 or 1.8 maybe too short to fill the

frame. Even the 85mm maybe short. Estimate 60' to 140' distance.

 

I'm thinkikng about the the Nikkor 85mm f1.8D which is affordable. But I am

thinking long and hard about spending $380.

 

1.)I need a lens that can shoot the actors. If I have to get closer, so be it.

2.)I need a low light lens for basketball games (near the goal).

3.)My local Council photos on the 70-200 f2.8 are too dark unless I use a

flash.

4.)I read the 85mm 1.8 is a good portriat lens. But do I already have that

covered with the 18-70 and 70-200.

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Would you recommend a monopod brand/model for me? I use a D70s to

shoot basketball, football, soccer, and tennis. Nikkor 70-200 f2.8

is my standard lens. With $3,000 invested in my camera, I would

like to get the right monopod. Under $100 would be nice (for a

change). I'm not good enough to quit my day job (unlike most of you

guys). Thanks. You guys always give me more information than I

thought to ask for. :-) I'm 6'2".

page 78 of the D70s owner's manual: Subject too dark. Raise sensitivity. page 46: "Sensitivity" is the digital equivalent of film speed. The higher the sensitivity, the less light needed to make an exposure, allowing higher shutter speeds or smaller apertures. aka. ISO. Increase the ISO. Conversly H1 means lower the ISO. The subject is too bright.

You may look at http://www.eventpictures.com I've used them for about six months without any problems.

I wanted to see how hard it was to blur the background out of the photo in PhotoShop. I extracted the players then three levels of gaussian blur. About 10 minutes. Doesn't look natural, but at least the autos are out.<div></div>

Thanks very much. You guys are why I love this forum. Always give more information that I thought to ask for and you're professional.

When should you use a lens hood? Night football games; outdoor

soccer games; night baseball games, basketball games? Inside

buildings? (Nikon D70s w/18-70, f4.5 & 70-200 f2.8) -Thank you.

Thank you to everyone that has contributed to the line. I have read and re-read your comments many times. I've been working on 4 hours sleep and my brain is starting to hurt because I've jammed so much information into it this week. I wake up thinking specifications. I agree 100% on the lens lasting a lifetime comment. I'm going to try the Nikon 70s with the 70-200mm/2.8G IFED AFS VR. Add a SB-800 and 1gb CFCard. Around $3,000. ouch! I never could find a comparison between the Sigma and Nikon lens. But looking at the amount of lens inside, I would think the Nikon would have a better image quality. I'll grab a monopad later. (mono-)Tripod will have to do for now. Thanks again. I'll be reading your comments in other lines to improve my skills.

Thanks, What do you think about combining the Nikon D50 ($800+-) with the 70-200/2.8G IFED AFS VR ($1,500+-)? Then all I need is a flash and memory.

Would this be a good combination for sports? Softball/baseball, tennis, and night football?

I believe general opinion is to stay with Nikon instead of Canon.

Thanks for bearing with me.

How about mixing a Nikon D50 with a Canon 70~200mm f/2.8L IS USM Auto-Sensing lens? The D50 is very close to the D70, but priced around $800. and the Canon 200mm f/2.8L with IS looks like a good lens for sports. Any problem mixing one brand with the other?

 

You talked me out of Ebay. Thanks.

And you're right about film being better than digital, but the print delay and viewing/adjusting my shots would detrimental (I think).

The D1X and D2H look great for fast frames per sec. But the price is pretty high and they look like they hit the market in 2001 & 2003. Is older technology for a digital camera an issue? I read a lot about Canon's Rebel EOS XT. Only 3 frames per second but more mega px and newer technology.

 

What do you guys think about purchasing on EBay?

 

I hadn't considered a film SLR. The time to print and porting into PhotoShop would be an issue. I'm good at Photoshop being a web developer.

I also like the IS feature on the Canon EF200mm lens, if I can afford it. I may have to go into debt.

Thank you for all your recommendations. I'm still researching every one of them.

Thanks for your prompt responses. I'll review every suggestion.

Being a Web Developer, I have been using PC Magazine Digital Camera Review as my reference. http://www.pcmag.com/products/0,,qn=Digital+Cameras+Digital+SLRs,00.asp

 

But I want to know what you guys in the field recommend. Thanks for the professional advice.

Please recommend a starter camera and lens for me. I would like to

keep it under $2,000. to start with. Events are tennis, softball,

football. I thought I was getting decent photos with an Olympus

5060wide zoom until I shot a night football game. Thank you.