dcheung
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Posts posted by dcheung
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<p>Had same problem with my XXD camera. Problem solved by putting a little pressure horizontally to the pop-up flash using your left hand. i.e., when holding camera in landscape orientation and I hear that first "loud click", i just nudge the popup with my left hand towards my right hand. It's a simple slight misalignment that causes the pop-up release to catch on something and not beable to release the pop-up flash. Every one might be different though so might want to try pushing the opposite direction too. Now it's a habbit of doing a slight push before even engaging the pop-up and the problem has never happened again.</p>
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<p>I'm new to studio work. Just setting up one right now. It just occured to me that models will be (or are supposed to be) stepping on my muslin backdrop. For shots when shoes are needed, will the backdrops get damaged? Those mulsins aren't cheap. How long do those things last for you guys?<br>
It concered me cuz I'm going to be shooting a friend who is a tap dancer and he's going to be wearing tap shoes with metal bottoms.</p>
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<p>My 50/1.4 focuses perfectly spot on at near field (say about 3m). I can use f/1.4 and get very sharp images at center frame at this distance. However, in far field (say >10m), the lens tends to back focus.<br>
Will calibration help? I thought the way calibration would work was that it would shift the focus at all distances. If the far field was fixed to focus perfectly, then the near field would end up front focusing. Is this correct?</p>
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<p>I'm not sure if such a thing exists. Your best bet might be to just use a picture of the 5D and create a custom icon out of it. I've done custom icons in the past and I don't remember it being very difficult to make. If you google up how to make a custom windows icon, it should be pretty straight forward from there.</p>
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<p>Luminous-Landscape recently presented a spreadsheet for helping with comparing different camera models. <a href="url=http://luminous-landscape.com/whatsnew/#345">here</a> <br /> <br /> I was curious as to the DxO mark score per price for these cameras so I added an additional column and thought maybe other people will find it useful too.<br /> <img src="http://www.ece.ualberta.ca/~wliu/extra_info.gif" alt="" width="476" height="543" /> <br /> <br /> Based on a value for your money perspective, looking at the 20+ MP models, the 5D mkII scores not too badly. (Before anyone flames my thread, by "value", i mean DxO mark score)<br /> <br /> If you guys at Luminous-Landscape find that I am stealing your speadsheet, please let me know and I will remove the link as soon as I hear about it. I'm also not sure if this has already been done before, if so, sorry for the repost.</p>
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<p>Is it difficult for these things to automatically get the convered exposure correct? I remember with mine, I usually had to manually adjust exposure and color balance or else it was way off.</p>
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<p>Hi there, my uncle asked me for advice on buying film scanners but I really have no knowledge in this area so I'm asking you guys for help.<br>
He's interested in digitizing 35mm (no medium formats). He would like to feed in a negative strip (has 5 or so frames on it), and automagically pop out corresponding jpg files, reasonably exposure-adjusted and color converted from the negative and automatically diced into the individual frames. It would be okay if it required a manual alignment step to register the first frame.<br>
For the photos of extra interest he can further process the jpgs, but he would like to avoid doing it too much so he would like a scanner with reasonably good conversion process that doesn't horribly messed up the exposure, color, etc. 48-bit tiffs would also be a good feature.<br>
So I only thing I told him is that ICE is a good feature to have. I had a scanner in the past and I regret not getting one with ICE and had to spend countless hours editing away the dust and hairs.<br>
Any suggestions? He didn't give me a budget to go by.</p>
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<p>Similar thing happened to me before, except that I was taking 30+ second exposures with a remote release. I was wondering why the exposure was only about 30 sec no matter how long i lock down the remote switch. Also no memory card recording. Then I realized I had mirror lockup on and needed to press shutter twice. It never even took the picture. Just waited about 30s for the shutter button to be pressed a second time to open the shutter.</p>
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<p>Preliminary tests show that the black dots are completely gone!<br /> http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1032&message=30602734</p>
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<p>http://www.dpreview.com/news/0901/090108025d2firmware.asp</p>
<p>Has anyone seen a review of the new fix yet? I'm curious to know how effictive it is.</p>
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Since the F10/11 day's Fuji's P&S sensors have been ahead of the curve, peaking with the F31. I've always been a
fan of their approach to making sensors with fairly good high ISO noise. So much so in fact that for P&S
cameras, I stopped checking out other manufacturers. Other manufacturers had tiny sensors 1/2.5" that produced
unusable noise above ISO400 and their 1/1.8" sensors aren't much better.
However, lately, examining the noise profile from non-Fuji P&S cameras, it seems like they have closed the gap.
They seem to be able to be competitive with the noise generated from the latest Fuji offerings like the F60fd or
F100fd.....things like the LX-3 or even the Canon G10's sensor isn't bad (if you consider how bad they were in
the F31 days).
Now here is where I'd like your help on. I need to pickup a COMPACT P&S camera in the next week for someone else
that isn't really into photography. They will be shooting mainly family/friends photos and some touristy type
photos. The first camera I can think of is the Fuji F100fd. It's compact, has a decent lens with wide angle,
and has pretty good high ISO noise. I've used it quite a bit and only concern is menu operation for more advance
controls is difficult and that there's no manual controls but for this purchase, no manual control is not a
concern here. The camera will probably end up being in auto mode for 99% of it's lifetime. Is the F100fd still
the best compact P&S to get for my needs? or has there been others that sprouted up with excellent IQ and just as
compact?
More specifically, I'm looking for a camera with the following features:
- Compact (The smaller the better, LX3 is way too big, think canon SD series sizes)
- Good high ISO noise
- Some sort of mechanical image stabilization
- Decent lens (Anything on par with the lens from the F100fd would be great)
- Well programmed auto mode that gives good consistent results
Yes, I know this sounds like the be all and end all list where only a god camera can meet but IMO, the F100fd
meets this list of criteria, but I'm wondering if there's something else that came one the market that's also as
good if not better than the F100 in these criteria?
Thank you for reading through all of that,
Weiyang
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For those of you that shoot 17-40L on a FF sensor, how many of you have shot with the 20mm f/2.8 ? I have the
20mm and it's been very sharp and I'm very satisfied with it except that sometimes, I find that it would be more
useful to have the more versatile zoom. On 16-9.net, the reviewer says the 17-40 is sharper than the 20mm but on
the-digital-picture.com, it seems the 20mm prime is sharper on the ISO12233 comparisons. What have your
experiences been for these 2 lenses? I'll be mainly using the lens as a landscape lens as I hike around. The
other thing about the 20mm is that it flares a lot. Does the 17-40 flare less?
It seems the 17-40 is a much more popular lens than the 20mm. Why is that? Does the extra 3mm make that much of
a difference in the wide end? Is the versatility that worth it? Is the 20mm just an extremely underrated lens?
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on the issue of the sync speed, of all the full frame digitals, the fastest X-Sync speed is 1/250th and that belongs to the 1Ds-series. Even the 1D MkIII only has 1/250th. The much bigger mirror in the full frame cameras means more travel distance and thus more travel time (as an above user have already stated). The 5D's 1/200th isn't bad at all considering it's only 20% slower than the 1-series.
If memory serves me correctly, for APS-C cameras, 20D-50D are all 1/250th; D30,D60 and 10D are 1/200th, and the only canon digital camera with a higher X-Sync belongs to the original 1D with a smaller than full frame sensor and 1/500th X-Sync.
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John >> I simply opened up the properties in windows and went into "summary", then "advanced".
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"It IS cleaner than a 20D at 3200"
haha, I'm not sure about that but I wish it's true!
It seems to apply a stronger noise reduction (esp chorma noise) at ISO25600 and that's why it looks cleaner than
3200 on 20D but if you look at the detail, there is also more loss of detail compared to 3200 on 20D.
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Just found another site that has 5D sample shots at high ISO:
I found this link on fredmiranda forums.... just downloading the 300mb file so not sure if it's real or not but the website looks legit.
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Found this on flickr:
Judge for yourself.
The EXIF says Canon EOS 5D Mark II captured today at 1:33pm
I hope this is real cuz I'm impressed.
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Michael Liczbanski >> "Well, I strongly suspect that among many ways to ruin one's - including yours - images, diffraction plays but a minor part..."
No, these photos I'm thinking of were technically perfect except for the diffraction problem from being at f/16-22. Like I said, it's a real problem that I didn't know about back then. If you try to sell it off to shooters as being a lab-only-non-real-life phenomenon and people believe you, then you'll end up with people trying to increase depth of field (or even sharpness from using only the center of the lens elements) and end up with diffraction problems.
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Michael Liczbanski >> You seem to be mis-informed in terms of diffraction or at least your comments goes to show that you have not done any serious experimentation with small apertures and prints. Diffraction is a serious limitation. I'm not even gonna bother arguing with you. You should maybe hit a few google searches on the topic and do some real life experiments before you come on there and tell people that diffraction limit is only for pixel peepers. I've had many images ruined back in the days when I didn't know about diffraction limitations. I don't want to see that happen to others.
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Thanks for all the feedback on the extension tubes. I got the set and seems pretty cool. One thing i noticed is that with the 12, 20, and 36mm all mounted together, it's really easy to put the focal plane inside the lens! What was cool was that with the 70-200 mounted, at 200mm, the closest focus is a few cm infront of the lens, but at 70mm, it's well behind the front element hehe.
Axel >> I seem to remember a discussion on there a few months back regarding Kenko teleconverters compared to the canon ones and that thread linked to tests shots that clearly showed that the Kenko produced slightly sharper images....and it's cheaper!
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I'm gonna be getting a set of these tonight. I was just wondering what
magnifications it will give on my 1.6x sensor camera for various lenses I own.
I remember there was one of these online calculator things that will give the
answer but I can't find it on google. Anyone can provide a link please?
Quick Question:
With the extension tubes on, does the closest focusing distance become closer or
does the image received by the sensor just get bigger with the same focus distance?
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A friend was traveling in Florida and said he was offered 40D with 28-135 for
1100USD from stores on the street. I've only heard of bait and switch for phone
orders, never in person. Does this type of scam exist in person at a store you
can actually step foot into?
It was in Miami, Florida.
Sorry, I don't know the name of the store or else I'd look it up on
resellerratings too.
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Looks fine on my monitor too.
Insane Camera Behavior - Error 99
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted