e_kawaguchi

DAN-SAN, I am impressed how kind your are.

Genuine KODAK C41 develoer is available (though seller unwilling to sell) and E6 NOT available here in Japan.

I am interested in E6 developer ADORAMA sells.

I am sending you an E-mail.

(Due to my inadequate expression please let me say again developer

availablitity here in Japan as long as I know

E6 process kit for personal uses

- KODAK&FUJI genuine is NOT available

- Third Party (as TETENAL) NOT available

C41 process

- KODAK (flexi?) available

- Third party available (just one provider, expensive 1L kit for 25USD)

RA paper process

- Both KODAK and FUJI available (expensive!)

- Third party available (expensive!)

>Rowland Mowrey

E6 does not use hydroquinone? Hmm what a mystery. Ah I have to say that my book means hydroquinone-mono-sulfate (maybe not the exact term)but someone says it's equivalent of usual hydroquinone.

I observe this seems to contribute to form hard tone images on films

like when we enlarging on paper.

>Terence Spross When I do reverse exposure, I get the film out of the reel, then after exposing, I set it back to the reel. It's somawhat a mess and take time up to ten minute's, but at this time I

want to make it for sure. However, someone in my country do this as just the film putting inside the reel in water, lighting by 500W bulb,

leaving it for ten minutes, then gets the same result.

According to my darkroom book Kodak never ever disclose the genuine C41 formula, but for business labs dealing major quantity, KODAK leaves

a formula called 'C-42'. The formula is mostly consisted of our usual

B&W chemicals, except hydoroqusylamin? (NH2OH)2 H2SO4 and KODAK anti carcium NO4.

Ron, thank you for responses. So it can be said CD-4 produces dyes ideal for print paper to be exposed whereas CD-3 dyes that is to be seen directly by human eyes. Is that correct?<BR><BR>

Highest acutance and finest grain-that seems difficult to realize in B&W formulas. High acutance devloper like Beutler formula loses some grain.

My 1st devloper formula has 30g hydoroquinon and 2g phenidone that means about ten times density than usual B&W developer formula, as well as it is instructed to process 30 degree at 15 minutes. Those

formula, temp, time might be said crazy if it were for B&W negatives.

Things are much different.

Oh sure, I noticed my C-41 images have less sharpness.<BR><BR>

DAN, I once tried in vain to find out some dealer in my country

which sells genuine Kodak or Fuji developer. Furtheremore, there some amateuer kit used to be sold for E6 process like TETENAL but at this time all have been discontinued. Such kits only remains for C41 and color paper but rather expensive. Some incidents since 11 years ago

have made our society sensitive for chemicals and major shops (like

Yodobashi camera or Big camera, do you know?) are unwilling to deal with those product. That tendency seems to be enhanced by less demand for films as digital cameras dominates the market.

Oh I wish I could taste 'secret sauce'.<BR><BR>

The first reason for beginning C41 developing by myself is lab's

developing price is high for sheet films (about $3 per sheet). I could get many color nagetive films in 4X5 for very cheap, then that problem came. Since I have confidence in me at C41 I will usually develope color negatives at my house. Besides I also be aware of

AMAZING color positives I had in this experience.

Though this experiment just falls within 'psedo E6' but now I feel I can proceed to regular E6 process. I think it is worth to be done and

very significant to me.

Hello all.<BR>

I recently began C41 process for color negatives of 120 and 4X5 sizes,

making color developer for myself using CD-4. <BR>The result was

almost successful. Then I tried pseudo E-6 process for KODAK EPR and

FUJI RDP III;<BR><BR>

1. first develope - exact E-6 formularated developer refered to in my

dark room book (extremely DENSE! formulate compared to B&W developer)

and time is the exact minutes instructed.<BR>

2. reverse - 200W electric-bulb light for about 3 minutes<BR>

3. color develope - the same one as I use in C-41 process (containing

CD-4) for 1.2-1.5 times longer minutes than in normal C-41 process<BR>

4 BL and FIX - the same as in C-41<BR><BR>

This results in farely satisfactory positive images for first trial;

colors seem

almost normal and normal exposure is gained. CD-4 works fine much more

than expected. I attach an image (EPR) from this pseudo E-6

process.<BR>

However I can't get rid of thought that I may be blined from

something.<BR>

I am wondering if stepping up to normal E-6 color developer (with CD-

3 containd and other complexed chemicals ) promises the more

satisfactory results I get from professinoal labs.

What the difference between CD-4 and CD-3 and how much they differs?

<BR><BR>

Any advise is appreciated. (also I apogize for my poor English skills)<div></div>

Q.G. de Bakker

Oops! I didn't know that.

In ELEFOTO website, they lists 'kiev 60', but this in not likely what you point. By the way ELEFOTO has US branch and English web site.

http://elefoto.hp.infoseek.co.jp/ENGLISH/index.html

In Japan those two makers of ELEFOTO and KINDAI INTERNATIONAL are

two major brand which sells lense mount adapters as well as minority-brand makers.

Since I live in Japan, this response might be just for reference but let me say

1. My nearest camera shop sells hassel-EOS adapter for 12000yen ($100)second hand.

2. Elefoto company in Japan manufactures and sell many sorts of mount adapters including Hassel-EOS. According to following web sites they sell one for \39900 ($360) brand new (although the sight is in Japanese) No 2058 in the left carum is this.

http://elefoto.hp.infoseek.co.jp/MOUNT/slr.html

3. In Japanese auction, one seller constantly sells originally-made products of this kind. Hassel-EOS is 9000yen ($80)

http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k22973458

4. Some roughly-made adapter is likely to make connecting scrathes

in the lense mount.

hope this helps

Thank you, my seniors for responses. I have been encouraged to try to have this shutter repaired. In fact it costs me 1.5 hours car drive or train ride as well as expensive fuel or no cheap ticket to get to the shop but the shutter seems to deserve it. I will report how this go on later. I may be well 'brain-washed' by thoughts of this era in

which whole assembly exchange is taken for granted even for a slightest problem with electrical gears.

Hi all. Very recently I began 4x5 picture. At the same time this is

the first post of mine in this photo.net. Since English is not my

language please excuse me in advance in case I have bad expression on

my post although I will make the best not to.

To get started with, I got Horseman FA, Cambo SCX and several LF

lenses second hand for rather cheap prices. One lens among them is

old schneider 240mm F5.6 with compur shutter, having serial number of

10 084 117. Maybe it was manufactured mid 60's.

But next day of purchase while I was checking the function, I found

the shutter does not properly works. It closed very fast for being

set to 1 sec speed. Next at 1/2, also very fast (I guess 1/100 or so)

Then finaly the shutter did not closes, remaing half open. (I could

close it completely by pulling fully both the charge and the shutter

switches at once.)

Calling up the shop, the shop master told me to bring it to him saying

he will repair it for free. But even he repairs this, I would still

doubt if this would be a perfect condition and I might hesitate to

use this at actual situation in which rather an expensive film is

consumed. Also it might be better to put lenses apart to other

reliable No 3 shutter.

Could someone help me with this? Any response would be appreciated.