andrew gundershaug

<p>Just started shooting film again myself...super stoked as it has reinvigorated my interest in photography. As others have noted it is a nice complement to the amazing images created by digital cameras.</p>

<p>Both images Yashica T4, Kodak T400CN, printed and scanned at Walgreens, split toned in Photoshop to remove the purplish tint of the scans by Walgreens</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17904315-md.jpg" alt="" width="461" height="680" /></p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/17904314-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="459" /></p>

<p> </p>

My favorite website besides Photo.net is a blog dedicated to optimizing small flashes for exaclty what you are describing, specifically read the On Assignment Posts...

 

 

 

<a href="http://strobist.blogspot.com/">http://strobist.blogspot.com/</a>

 

 

 

I agree with Nadine, places the strobes on manual, full power, and then adjust the power on perhaps the smaller flash as needed...take a test shot and make sure that the histogram looks good, if not tweak the power a little bit more...

 

Andrew

I have and Adidt...it works great for 10 bucks and I didn't feel bad about getting creative with it. I bought male and female headphone 3 pin plugs and a 25 foot headphone extension cord at radio shack. I then chopped the adidt's cord in half and soldered on the plugs, I can now use the release from over 25 feet away for less then 30 dollars.

Thanks for the suggestions. I purchased a new roll of Delta 400 yesterday and I am in the process of shooting it right now. I am planning on developing it in a 2 roll tank with one of my old rolls.

 

Do most people use the dilution B? Dose the 5-second agitation every minute after the initial one-minute of agitation sound correct?

 

As far as temperature variations I do not feel that this is a problem. Currently I am extremely cautious about making sure that the water I am using to dilute the part B mixture 7:1 is exactly 68deg F using a Weston thermometer. My stop bath and fixer are at ambient temperature in my home which is 68 Deg F. During my rinse I am using tap water, but it is winter and the water is much cooler than ambient.

 

Andrew

I have finally gotten around to processing the final 20 rolls of

Delta 400 that are leftover from a trip to South America that

produced over 100 rolls of film back in 1999. The film has been

waiting in my freezer for all of these years...

 

I am using HC-110, diluted to working solution "b", then mixed 1:7

w/H20 at 68degF for 7.5min. Agitate for first minute, then for 5

seconds every minute thereafter. The film was exposed at ISO 320. The

tonality of the film is great(no fogging, decent shadow detail)...but

I am getting Gnarly Grain...It looks like I am using hot developer.

 

I am wondering if this is a byproduct of waiting so long to devo the

film...if others have seen this w/Hc-110, my method...anything.

 

The prononced grain is an interesting effect...but not exactly what I

was hoping for...

 

Andrew

Does anyone here have experience with the Metz 54 series flashes? Specifically the 54 MZ-4 with the SCA 3002 module for EOS cameras?

 

Any comments are appreciated...

 

Andrew

 

ps-I would be using the flash on an EOS-3 and 20D

Looks to me that it is just a classic deep Red (89B) filter. Blocks light below 650-750nm. It will only allow light in the infrared and the visible light spectrum near the infrared...

 

Andrew

 

ps-get a hoya...it will be cheaper...

sorry I didn't mention this in my previous post...The EOS3 will give you the ability to to use the * button for autofocus (custom function 4 on the EOS3). As for Exposure information, I believe that you are out of luck unless you purchase an EOS1 series film camera. The EOS3 WILL feel different that the 10D or the Elan...try it...you may like it.

Get an EOS3. The camera is bombproof. It has some decent weather sealing (not as good as the 1 series cameras), intuitive controls, spot metering (a big plus for B&W, esp. when using the Zone System), an extremely bright viewfinder, more AF points (and better) than the 10D...all in all a great film camera that will hold up for years and has all of the functionality that you will ever need. You can find them on the Internet used for about 350.00; B&H still sells them new for around $800.00

 

Good luck with the purchase,

Andrew

Get the 430 (or the old 550EX, B&H is selling them for 299), a stofen Omnibounce, and play with bouncing the light off of the wall, the ceiling, you name it.

 

Also purchase the canon 50/1.8(or 1.4), this will open up the realm of available light photography in the house. Find a window and shoot away...

 

Here is a photo of my daughter as she was coming around a chair next to a large window in our home...

 

 

Andrew<div></div>

Rodger...I just ventured into EOS prime land myself a few months ago. When I bought my first EOS camera in 2000 (EOS3) I was mystified by zooms and the mystification remained until I picked up the 50/1.4 in December. The lens is great! The contrast is amazing and the limited DOF can do wonders when it comes to portraiture. I also have a child and I find that the 50/1.4 on my 20D works great for non-obtrusive shots of my daughter, in the house, even at night with no flash. It is exactly what I was missing with my EOS system. But beware! You may soon find (like myself) that you need the 85/1.2(or 1.8), the 135/2, the 24/1.4...

 

Andrew

thanks for the suggestions Matt and Hugh. My daughter is turning one soon and I wanted to create a photo book of her...for her...thanks. I will try the post in the wedding section...

 

Andrew

I am looking for suggestions on a printer (commercial) that makes

board books. I am looking for someone that I can e-mail or FTP image

files to, and have them printed in a hardbound book that contains

images that extend from edge to edge and fill the entire page like a

childrens board book...

 

Thanks,

Andrew

oooohhhh...I see your point...

I have a large amount of black and white film that I am in the

process of scanning and printing. I have gotten over the huge

scanning workflow (how do I get my images to look like they are

supposed to) and am now enjoying the creative aspect of adjusting my

images in photoshop.

 

My question is this:Is it possible (I am sure that it is) to emulate

different classic black and filters used at the time of acapturing

the image (e red, green, yellow) on an image when it is already black

and white. My scans are RGB to begin with, I have tried using the CS2

Photo filter adjustment, but when I convert to greyscale I do not see

any change in the image...

 

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

I have another question...I have started using Vuescan in my post-processing workflow...when working with slides I am using ICC profiles that I have created using Wolf Faust targets for Provia, velvia, etc...but here is the question: I created the profile in Vuescan by scanning the slide via the Vuescan scanner driver, I then scan my slides in MSU and create a 16bit linear tiff file, then work the file in Vuescan with the "scan to file" option. Would it be better to Scan the target in Linear mode in MSU, and then post- process the "target" file in Vuescan and create the profile that way...I am going to give it a try to see if it makes a difference in my color reproduction. I assume that it may when you take into account the GEM and ICE tools that I am using in MSU and the effects that they will have on color rendition...

 

Andrew

Hello Guys...first of all I would like to thank you both for all of the wonderful information that you have both contributed towards my understanding of the Minolta 5400 and the scanning process. I purchased a 5400 II a few months ago and I have been struggling (like everyone I now realize) to obtain high quality results with my scanner. I have read as many posts as I can and this has been one the most helpful. I have adopted a workflow for color negatives that resembles the one that you describe above using a blank frame to adjust the RGB channels in MSU to compensate for the Orange cast. I haven't made the jump to 16bit linear but I plan on giving it a try in the next few days. What workflow have you two adopted for B&W NEGS? I have just purchased VUESCAN and I have begun to tinker with the B&W workflow that VUESCAN describes. Up until now I have been scanning B&W negs with MSU as Color Positives (16bit), Autoexposure:ON, completely desaturated (as described in the manual for chromogenic films). Open the file in Photoshop, Invert, convert to Grayscale, adjust:levels, adjust:curves, and I have come up with a pretty good image. Are you both using VUESCAN for B&W negs...what are some benefits that you see using VUESCAN?

 

Thanks in advance...

 

Andrew

Hello all...I have 35mm Summicron serial # 2316XXX (Made in Canada).

The lens was apparently built in 1969 accroding to the resource at KB

Camera. According to the lecia webpage it is a Type 1, but according

to the KB resource it is either a Type 2 or 3. Also the lens looks

different than any that my friends have or that I have seen on the

internet, there is a Tab that sits off of the Aperture

ring...So...what type is it...just wondering

thanks for all of the info...I will contact Sherry and Dag to get some quotes...the information that you have provided will give me peace of mind when it comes to sending my camera!

 

Thanks,

Andrew

Hello all...

 

I have a M4 that has become a little pesky...when I change lenses or

when I try to preview different lenses with the frameline preview

lever the framelines do no move from the standard 35mm lines...they

are stuck...

 

anyhow...I am looking for a recommendation on whom I should send my

camera to be repaired

 

Thanks in Advance,

Andrew

Hi all I am brand new to the forum.

 

I have a couple of questions regarding purchasing the 20D. I

currently have an EOS3,550EX, and my primary lens is the 28-135IS. I

find that I do most of my shooting with the 28-135. I am thinking

that the 17-40mm f/4 would be a good complemntary lens to the 28-

135IS (for the 20D) due to the fact that the 17-85 EF-S that is sold

with the kit will not work with the EOS3. I mostly shoot lanscapes

and think that this will be a good combo...I have always wanted a

wider angle lens for the EOS3 anyhow. I would prefer the 16-35mm

f/2.8 but that sucker is really pricy. Does anyone have any better

suggestions?

 

Now what about the 550EX...Is anyone using the 550 with the 20d, any

problems? I absolutely love the flash on my EOS3 and can't imagine

that it would do a poor job on the 20D.

 

Last...I was reading thru the EOS3 postings...what is CF-19?

 

I guess to start with those are my primary questions.

 

Thanks in advance...

 

Andrew