kurt petersen

Settings changes will only persist in P/A/S/M modes. In AUTO or any of the SCENE modes seetings will always

reset to defaults when the camera is turned off. <p>

Oh, and a link for you... <p>

http://www.elearnenglishlanguage.com/difficulties/looselose.html

1. The focal length option is only for the use of manual lenses via adaptor. When using a four thirds lens the correct

focal length is communicated to the camera. <p>

2. I don't believe I.S. has any effect on camera performance as such. It is recommended to turn it off on a tripod and I

have seen examples of long exposures of star trails with a zig-zag effect to support this. The other time I would

suggest turning I.S. off is when tracking moving objects at slower shutter speeds, otherwide you can end up

with "Sharp background, blurry subject" I.S.2 can be useful but only when tracking an object moving solely in a

horizontal motion.

<a target='_blank' href='http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?

image=bellim1.jpg'><img

src='http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/9584/bellim1.th.jpg'

border='0'/></a>

Everything will work fine EXCEPT the TTL-RC remote control functions which require a camera with wireless capability, such as E-3, E-520, E-420 or SP-560uz. You can use the flash as a normal slave flash in MANUAL or AUTO mode.

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You seem to have a good idea of what benefits 4/3rds can give you when it comes

to 'long reach' photography like birding.

You can see good examples in the <a

href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?

forum=1022&thread=28292350&page=1">"Sunday Bird"</a> thread, every week in

the dpreview Oly SLR forum this thread maxes out with bird photos from all over

the world taken with mostly Olympus equipment. <p>

With regard to the comments on diffraction, yes, diffraction limiting does start at

around f/11 on 4/3rds, however this is at the SAME DOF as you would hit

diffraction limits on APS-C or FF. Turning this around however, you get more DOF

at a given aperture than you do with competing formats, which is an advantage

when using long focal lengths where shooting wide open can result in extremely

shallow DOF. <p>

There was a rumour going around that Panasonic was pulling out of 4/3rds, started

by a report on a single website of the "A rep said this at a trade show" variety.

This has since been completely denied in an official statement from Panasonic

management.<div></div>

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Getting a 14-54 f/2.8-3.5 or 50mm f/2 would help you out here. The faster lenses will focus better in low light and get better shutter speeds in low light to boot. I know you saw that light levels in your house aren't that low, but your eyes adjust well to light levels, kit lenses don't...

I have found the 50mm f/2 to be an excellent lens for baby shots, very sharp, close focusing and always spot on with focusing

Not just exchange rate. I'm not sure if it's taxes or "market forces" but you pay a great deal more equivalent dollar value for camera and electronic gear in AU compared to USA or HKG.

Thank you all for your responses. I'm getting really excited, it's been ages since I last went OS and never to a big asian city. (Largest I've been to is Dempasar) <p> I will definately try the trams & ferries, and check out Vic Peak & the Big Buddha, maybe Macau if I have time. <p> How safe is it to walk with my camera gear in the marketplaces etc, is there much trouble with bag snatchers? I would generally have my camera in hand or on shoulder if i need the hand free and a couple more lenses in a old crumpler messenger bag. I would probably leave the battery grip off even though I love it so my camera (E-300) doesn't look quite so big.

Hey all. I'm going to Hong Kong for a week at the end of the month. I'll be

with my partner for the first few days, then two or three days to explore alone

whilst she attends a conference. Any must do experiences, must see sights, must

take photo's? (Actually, yes I MUST TAKE PHOTOS!) Is the big buddha on Lantau

worth the trip, how about Victoria Peak and Macau? I have the Lonely Planet

guide but would love to hear the opinion of some other photo.net.ers

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Hi James, here's a good beginners site online to check out.

http://www.shortcourses.com/

I'm not sure about the E-500 as I have an E-300 but getting an external flash should help a lot. I use an FL-36 and it has the focus assist red light and generally gives better lighting than the built in pop up flash, especially if a diffuser is used as well or if there is a convenient roof or wall to bounce off. The extra seperation of flash and lens will help reduce the redeye that is quite pronounced in some of your shots. I'm not sure if the FL-36 will still be available in your local stores as it's discontinued and you may have to fork out twice as much for an FL-50. I sort of wish I had got an FL-50 as the faster recycle time would be handy for my MTB shots, but for social shooting like this the FL-36 should be fine and it only uses two AA batteries to the FL-50's four.

Another thing to consider would be stepping up from the kit lens to the 14-54 f2.8-3.5 lens. From what I have read it is much sharper than the kit lens and the faster aperture will be helpful for focusing in low light situations.

If these solutions are too expensive for your student budget and you don't mind looking dorky, you could use a little camping headlight. The extra light on the focus point can help your camera get a lock.<div></div>

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I recently downloaded Internet Explorer 7 to use with my XP home SP2 system. I

have found when viewing photo.net some of the display on the right side of

screen shows while the page is loading but dissapears. For example in the

critique forum main page, the box to the right that has "About this forum" and

the list of individual categories.

I understand that IE7 is only a beta with XP systems but was interested to

see if anyone else is experiencing this problem and if there is any easy fix.

Please don't start with the use mozilla, IE sux, or go back to IE6. I have

used all these programs and prefer IE7, with this being the only problem I

have experienced in almost a month of use.

I thought of this shot as soon as I saw the thread title. I opened

it to find others felt the same<div></div>

Peter.

I am just starting out in MTB photography, I originally went to a race with some mates competing with a point & shoot, but over time upgraded to a DSLR and feel I'm getting reasonable quality shots now and still improving.

I agree that many are happy getting whatever free shots they can. While I am at the events I get many enquiries about buying my stuff but only a few people have followed that through. There are lots of mums, dads and mates out there whose photo's end up posted on internet forums and offer the full res images for free, and I have even been criticised on these forums for charging for full res files

I priced these reasonably I feel, midway between 5x7 & 8x10 prints with discounts for multiple images, but in the end I think many have been just downloaded from the low res watermarked samples I posted.

A shame I feel because while this was a niche I would have enjoyed filling, even as a sideline, it would seem that way too much time would be invested for potential returns. I'll still shoot at races that my friends are competing in and enjoy the kudos I get from them, and hopefully I will get some more published but I don't think the potential for a business is there.

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