tim_huggins

Let's be real, guys. Kodachrome is a unique and singular film. For macros of flowers, it has a richness and tonality that are unsurpassed. But if anything kills Kodachrome, it will be the tremendous advances in the quality of E-6, not digital.

 

As my local lab put it about a year ago, when I asked how digital had affected their E-6 business, "E-6 always has had a unique and devoted following, and digital really hasn't had much imact on that at all."

"50/1.2 is said to be the best Olympus 50mm lens in terms of character, bokeh, sharpness and contrast."

 

Really? That's never been the consensus on the reviews I've seen. It is also not been my impression based on photos I've seen from it. I think the second commenter is closer to the point in mentioning it's low contrast. Fast lenses have a 'mystique" about them, but the reality is that they involve challenges and trade-offs in design that often impact the overall optical quality.

Processing a strip of film has nothing to do with the number of exposures on it. The chemicals don't know anything about "frames". The problem comes in when they try to print it. You can ask them to print it as normal 35mm, in which case you get two images per print. Some places will do that, some won't. As noted above you may find someone that will actually take the time to figure out how to print half frames correctly, but good luck. This is all avoided when you shoot slide film.

 

As for the meter reading, both my FT's read right on (although there is a 1/3-1/2 stop difference when you rotate it to "landscape" format). I have had CdS cells degrade over time (increase resistance). If this is the case you can try a silver oxide cell without an adapter. Silver oxide cells have a higher voltage than mercury cells, and sometimes this is just right for correcting the meter.

 

But most important --> DON'T TRUST THE "METER' IN A DSLR FOR ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DSLR's don't have meters, per se. They have a computer that shows you what the computer "thinks" it should show you. You mention an OM1. If the meter on that is accurate, use it for comparison.

 

One last point about shutter speeds. If 1/500s isn't fast enough, your film is way too fast. Are you using ASA 800 film? Stick with ASA 100. Your image quality will be much better and you won't have a problem with shutter speeds.

VS will fix all the problems you listed. G has much softer colors.

As noted above, make sure there is at least one full turn on the spool before you close the back. Also make sure both the

bottom and top sprocket wheels are correctly engaged. Make sure the film is flat over the sprockets as you close the cover.

 

Any lab can process half frame film. The can also print two shots per print, but don't like to do that and will give you all sorts

of lame excuses why they can't. You should really try shooting slide film and tell them not to cut or mount it. Those 76

trannies look like a sting of jewels.

 

43mm filters are still commonly available. And Olympus makes a 43mm lens cap for some digithing that says Olympus right

on it (Adorama and that other less than honest NYC retailer sell them). I have the original Pen caps for all my lenses (which

took quite a search). But whenever a lens get used, the plastic cap gets put on it.

 

The 20mm is nice, giving a FOV equivalent to a "standard" 29mm. The 25mm's give a FOV of "standard" 36mm. The

workhorse 38mm f1.8 is razor sharp. But the 38mm pancake on a black FT is just about the prettiest thing you'll ever see.<div></div>

I shoot trannies pretty much exclusively. Most of my selenium light meters are dead on, and I've recorded the compensation for those that aren't. The shutter speeds on my MF folders and 35mm rangefinders are right on, too. But I've learned to take that as a given when the lens says "Zuiko".

"I wish film & digital could co-exist a little better so that one didn't make the other double in price!"

 

"I am concerned that price may skyrocket as well"

 

I miss the days when bread was 25 cents a loaf. Ever since they started selling those darn tortillas, the price of bread has skyrocketed!

Olympus was concerned about the effects of film flatness on image quality. This led to the film tensioning mechanism on the Chrome Six III (the first device of its kind). However, Olympus' own testing showed that this was only a problem at large apertures.

I have had this problem with Pen F Zuikos. The focusing collar is held to the helicoid with three set screws. These can slip and change the focus. You have to loosen them and reset the focus. In addition to these, every rangefinder or folder lens I've taken apart has a similar setscrew arrangement to some sort of focusing ring (admittedly, they were all zuiko lenses).

Keep in mind that "automatic parallax correction" was marketing-speak for parallax offset marks in the viewfinder. The viewfinder image does not physically shift as you enter the close focus range.

Check out the wedding photographer in "My Girlfriend's Boyfriend". She is using an OM4T (I'm pretty certain it is a T,

anyway). The scene is a montage where the camera gets a lot of exposure (ahem, sorry about that).

<p>I picked up one of these beauties a while back, but discovered that there was very little information available about it on

the web. Worse yet, some of what is posted there is not correct. This camera is historically significant, but has some

unusual quirks that make it difficult to figure it all out. As such, I've put together a page giving a complete description of the

camera and its operation.</p>

 

<url>http://www.thermojetstove.com/Autoeye/</url>

 

<p>The meter on the camera was not working when I got it, so at the end of that page there is also a link to instructions for

troubleshooting and repairing the meter.</p>

Sensia is the consumer labelling of Astia.

If you understand the composition of your scene, a spot meter will do you little good. I bought an OM4 years ago for the spot meter and almost never use it. Second guessing the center weighted average was more likely to screw up the exposure than improve it.

 

My favorite hand-held is the Ikophot. It is small, light, very accurate and easy to use. It has a selenium cell so there is no need for a battery - just keep in mind it is limited in range and not useful for flash or extended shutter speeds. There are usually several for sale on that auction site. Just be sure it comes with a money back guarantee.

A new 35mm SLR????? That has to be a mistake! Everyone knows that "film is dead"!

You can cut an old eyeglass lens with a dremel tool and set it into the eyecup. This is especially useful if you have an astigmatism, which the diopters will not correct.

I'm not sure what you call "shiny", but on my Stylus the areas you indicate have a slightly gloss black finish. Everything else is matte black. You have to look closely to see the difference, though. If these parts are actually "silver" in yours, there is something wrong with the camera. The Stylus is one of the most popular 35mm P&S ever made. It didn't get that reputation because people had to put black tape inside it.

If were lucky enough to find an FTL at an estate sale, you should have it completely CLA'd. Check out Camtech. John Hermanson posts regularly here.

I know that the OM-1 doesn't officially make it under the "pre-1970" limit for this forum.

But I don't think anyone will dispute that it is a classic! And I figured the folks here

would appreciate seeing what a frame of film can really do. Next time a digitroll starts

comparing his DSLR to 35mm, tell him to take a look here:

 

http://www.thermojetstove.com/Tonality/

Olympus never made an 11-22mm or a 12-60mm SLR lens. Are you perhaps refering to DSLR lenses?

http://www.olympus-global.com/en/corc/history/camera/lineup_chronicle.cfm#03

Mr. Fromm, Mr. Maintani was the most innovative and creative camera designer who has ever lived. No one has come close to matching his accomplishments. While he certainly improved on previous ideas, he never imitated!

 

"If you canﾒt make something original, better not to make it at all. A camera maker that simply copies others has no right to call itself a maker in the first place."

- Y. Maintani

Recently, all of my cameras have been going to Frank Marshman --> camerawiz@msn.com

 

He works very fast (2-3 week turnaround, including shipping!). His prices are reasonable, and his quality is first rate.

 

I've got two RC's that will probably get sent off to him shortly. He's currently fixing up a Chrome Six for me.

Frank Marshman --> camerawiz@msn.com

 

Fast, reasonable prices, very good quality work.

"It's very comfortable to hold and the controls fall readily to hand."

 

Hmmm, I guess that means the shutter speed setting was around the lens mount --> where god (and Mr.Yoshihisa Maintani) intended it to be!