kent_phelan

<p>Interesting Photo.net review of the DA35 Macro by Mike Johnston and Carl Weese:<br>

<a href="../columns/mjohnston/pentax-35mm-lens/optical-discussion/">An Optical Paragon</a></p>

 

Yes.

 

And I'm wondering how Marc pre-ordered. Would like to do the same.

Thanks everyone. I will investigate the Lee system.

 

---Kent

Can anybody tell me who makes filters that will fit a Sinar 100mm

filter holder? Evidently Sinar stopped making filters some time

ago, and I've heard that other 4x4 filters are too thick for the

Sinar holder.

 

All ideas appreciated. Thanks much.

 

---Kent Phelan

<a href="http://www.luminous-landscape.com/columns/sm-feb-05.shtml">Mike Johnston on Filters</a>

 

Complete with 40mm Nokton examples.

Thanks to all! I bought a used 95mm B+W yellow filter from Chuck Farmer. It arrived today and is in perfect condition.

 

I appreciate all your help.

 

---Kent

I am looking for filters for black & white use on a Schneider 72mm

SA-XL lens. I have had a couple of B+W filters on backorder from

B&H since April, with no ETA in sight. I'm looking for the usual

suspects -- yellow, orange, red, green, etc. I leave for a trip in

2 weeks and need to find something in stock, new or used OK. All

help appreciated. Thanks much.

AFAIK there was no 100mm Focotar lens. The Focomat IIc came with a 50mm f4.5 Focotar-2 and a 100mm V-Elmar. The earlier Focomat IIa came with a 50mm Focotar (not -2) and the 95mm f4.5 Focotar.

 

I owned a Focomat 1c Color with a Focotar-2 lens. It was fine at the time (70s-80s). If I were doing it now I would switch to Rodenstock Rodagons, especially the Apo variety.

 

I think you got the correct lens and wouldn't sweat it.

I have shot approx. 30 rolls of new TX. I cannot see any visual differences between new and old. I rate mine at EI 320 in an M6 body. I use D76 1:1, and recommend using Kodak's time & temp as a starting point (tho my guess is you will eventually be happy at 10-15% less time). I develop mine in a Jobo processor, so my info is pretty far off Kodak's. If you're interested, I develop at 75~F, with a 3' presoak, and 5' development time, all at Jobo rotation speed 3. I agree with Tony about the neg curling. It is important to use a hon-hardening fixer to help with this (I use Kodak Rapid Fix w/o the hardener), but it still curls a lot.

 

Overall I love TX. I have no problem with the new factory and all the internet rumors about it. Given today's economic climate, I'm just glad they are still making it.

Many of you may know this by now, but I thought I'd pass along the

sad news that Frances Baer passed away on July 24, 2003. Frances

was the wife of photographer Morley Baer, and was a fine

photographer and painter (she used a 5x7 camera). She was 86 at the

time of her death.

 

I don't know how long it will remain online, but her obituary can be

found at the Monterey County Herald at: <a

href="http://www.montereyherald.com/mld/montereyherald/news/6501657.h

tm">http://www.montereyherald.com/mld/montereyherald/news/6501657.htm

</a>

>> I was considering buying a 10D with 70-200 f/4L... do you think I might run into the same problem? Does it happen with mostly 70-100 f/4L? thanks.

 

I have no idea if you will or will not have the same problem. My guess is you will not. Also, from my experience, there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to which lenses are affected. I also use a 28/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8, 100/2.8, and 24-85 zoom. All focus perfectly. As does the 70-200/4 at all but the short end. At 70mm my example mis-focuses.

I just got off the phone with the Canon USA repair center in

Jamesburg, NJ. I sent in my 10D and 70-200 f4-L lens eight days

ago, to have the AF adjusted. My camera has only shown AF problems

with this lens. I use many EF lenses with this body, but this lens

at 70mm is the only one I can detect has a focusing issue. It

hasn't been a big deal, and I'm not panicking like so many online

users of this body. But I thought it would be nice to take care of

this problem before I head off on vacation later this month. Canon

has had the camera for a week now, and this morning I called for an

update. The young woman on the phone was very pleasant, but when I

told her that the repair concerned a 10D with autofocus problems,

her response was immediate, "Oh that. Oh boy, we are swamped with

those." (Her words, not mine) She thanked me for sending the lens

in along with the body. Many people have sent in their 10D body w/o

any lenses, and it is hard for the technicians to either fully

diagnose or fully effect a repair. She then put me on hold, and

tracked down the technician who was assigned to my camera & lens.

When she came back whe told me (again) that they are totally

swamped, and that my repair would take approximately 15 business

days (from today). That's 3 weeks. Plus the week they've had it

already makes a month. Whoah! As I said, I'm not panicking. I

will have the camera Fedexed to me at my vacation location. But

from my albeit limited experience with CUSA, this is a significant

problem for them. They are handling it quietly, and on a case-by-

case basis, but it was clear to me that it is taxing their resources.

The Focomat 1c takes a standard PH-211 or PH-212 bulb. The only difference is wattage -- if I recall correctly the 211 is 150w and the 212 is 250w. Any manufacturer will do. The original OEM bulb is a 150w unit made by Osram. Any equivalent 150w enlarger bulb will suffice.

Try this <a href="http://medfmt.8k.com/mf/flashbulbs.html">Link</a>

Well, I give up. I've posted these on a web server and tried to insert the images here, but when I get to the confirm screen, they are blank boxes. Soooo, if you want some examples from a 60mm, click on the links below. These were all taken with a 60CB (same formula as CFi) on a Flexbody. Most likely at f16 or so, TMX film, tripod mounted. And yes, the vignetting is intentional.<g>

<p>

<a href="http://12.110.224.147/kent/AdamsStreet-1.jpg">AdamsStreet-1.jpg</a>

<p>

<a href="http://12.110.224.147/kent/AdamsStreet-2.jpg">AdamsStreet-2.jpg</a>

<p>

<a href="http://12.110.224.147/kent/Merryvale.jpg">Merryvale.jpg</a>

<p>

<a href="http://12.110.224.147/kent/OakvilleGrocery.jpg">OakvilleGrocery.jpg</a>

These were taken with a 60CB (same formula as CFi) on a Flexbody.

Robert, I use both a Flexbody and a Linhof Master Technika 2000. I bought

the Flex a few years ago for largely the same reasons you are thinking of. I

needed a smaller view camera kit for those occasions where the 4x5

backpack was not appropriate or not possible. I should say that my Linhof kit

is trimmed down as much as I can make it. I use Readyloads, and stay away

from fast heavy lenses. I do, however, carry 4 to 6 lenses, depending upon

the location and the length of trip.

 

That said, the Flexbody is significantly lighter and easier to transport than the

Linhof. The major caveat, as has been mentioned before, is that you cannot

carry many of the Hasselblad lenses. Their size & weight add up QUICKLY. I

carry a 60mm, 120mm, and 250mm. I chose them based upon image circle,

focal length, and size. In practice, the Flex is easier to knock around with. I

carry mine in a large Domke shoulder bag (as opposed to a full backpack). I

also use one size smaller tripod with the Flex (a Gitzo 1325 instead of a

1349). Setting up & breaking down is fast. Actual field use, however, is not as

straightforward and intuitive as using a 4x5 camera. Because the Hassie

lenses do not have separate cocking and open/closing mechanisms, you

have to go through a few added steps to open/close & cock the shutter. It's

not that big a deal, but you have to have your wits about you when shooting.

 

I would also suggest carefully perusing the Hasselblad web site on lens

coverage with this camera. The lenses were not designed to cover more than

a standard 6x6 frame, and many of them don't. Maximum shift on any of them

is 15mm. 5-10mm is more of an average. Many photographers cannot live

with these kinds of limitations. For my photography, it is acceptable.

 

A previous thread can be found on teh Flexbody at: http://www.photo.net/

bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001TQw

 

---Kent Phelan

So how does one insert a picture directly into the message, isntead of just posting a link? Also, how to center the image on teh screen?

Hope this works....<div></div>

For black & white, hands down, medium yellow. It's great for skies and is not too obtrusive on flesh tones (unlike orange & red). Alternatively, a No. 11 Yellow/Green filter can be used for same. Great with skies & foliage, and not bad with skin tones.

 

I don't shoot much color. The only filter I ever use is a KR1.5 which produces a slight warming effect. I'm sure the overwhelming choice, however, would be a polarizer.

Hi Jim:

 

I have used quite a bit of 4x5 TMX with PMK in a Jobo CPP2. I use a 3 minute or slightly longer presoak (depends upon how long it takes me to mix my batch of PMK). All times are at 75 degrees and Jobo rotation speed 3.

 

Normal: 9 minutes

N+1: 11 minutes, in 2 batches of 5.5 min. each

N+2: 15 minutes, in 2 batches of 7.5 min. each

N-1: 7 min 15 seconds

 

For times longer than 10 minutes, Chuck Farmer recommends using 2 batches of developer, and I agree. Also, I do not use my spent solutions for the aftersoak. I use a liter of fresh water with a tablespoon or so of Sodium Metaborate. No Perma-Wash. Then a 30 minute wash in a 4x5 vertical film washer (I use a Salthill).

 

Hope this helps. Sorry about the formatting -- I do not know how to add line feeds to a msg....

>>>Staring at the digilux on the desk in front of me, I can tell you that it says absolutely nothing about being a Zeiss lens.

 

That's because it's made by Canon...

I cannot answer you concerning the Linhof tripods. I own 2 of the 3663 heads, and am crazy about them. I use them for large format (Linhof Technika 2000) on a Gitzo carbon fiber 1349 tripod, and for medium format on a Gitzo 1227 tripod. The 3663 is a superb device: small & precise. I use it with the Linhof quick release (larger model, can't remember the model no.). Neither has ever failed me in the field.

 

I highly recommend the Gitzo Mountaineer tripods as well. I am sure they have been discussed here as well as many other places in great detail. I have had my 1349 since they first came out. It has never failed me, and has saved me countless pounds and hours of aggrevation in the field since I bought it.

 

---Kent

1) Best tonal range: T-Max 100

2) Best contrast: there is no such thing as best contrast, but again, TMX. The tonality, the gradations between tonal values is second to none.

3) Less grain: hands down, TMX

4) Better scanning: if the above 3 criteria hold, again, TMX. If not, what�s the question again?

 

I have found T-Max 100 to be on par with Technical Pan, in terms of image structure (grain/sharpness), and better in terms of image gradation (the ability to move effortlessly from one zone value to another). I�ve done tests with 120 versions of both, in the 6x12cm format. The results are indistinguishable under the enlarger (and T-Max is a whole, whole helluva lot more manageable in terms of exposure, development, and zone system expansion/contraction characteristics)

 

I use TMX in 4x5 Readyloads, 120, and 35mm. In large format and medium format, I rate it at EI 64 and develop it in T-Max RS developer. For 35mm I rate it at EI 80 and develop it in D76 1:1 (tho XTOL also works well, also at EI 80). In all cases, I use a Jobo rotary processor.

 

Hope this helps.

 

---Kent

Sorry, no Leica lenses in this list. I haven't been back in the M system long enough to make this kind of confirmation on any of them (tho, IMO the current 50 Summicron is awfully good).

 

1) - Fujinon 240mm f9 AS

2) - Schneider 110mm f5.6 Super Symmar

3) - Mamiya 65mm for Mamiya 7

4) - Mamiya 43mm lens for Mamiya 7

5) - Zeiss 45mm f2 for Contax G