jim_chow
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Posts posted by jim_chow
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Here's what I found out about the repair. As I mentioned before, I didn't purchase the
body through one of the distributor's stores, so the distributor's repair facility will
NOT honor the warranty. I received the repair estimate of $100 for parts and $200 for labor
to replace a 'shutter board.' It will take more than 3 MONTHS to receive the parts for the
repair. The problem with the magazine is that it just needs some adjustment so the body
"knows" when the darkslide is closed. That estimate is $130 for the labor for the magazine, so the total is over $400 or more than 10% of the price of a new body kit!
<p>
I have sent email to twice Rollei at their information email address in Germany (info@rollei.de) as well as the Rollei digest, and have yet to receive any response from either place. It appears the only alternative I have is to send it back to Germany and wait up to 6 months for the repair. Needless to say, especially for a product this expensive, I'm very unhappy with the lack of product support/service.
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I use both heliopan (made by Rodenstock in Germany) and B+W ([schneider] both
multi-coated and single coated B+W). While I can definitely see a difference in the
multi-coated vs. single coated filters (with the multi-coated 95mm B+W UV, you can't tell there's even a filter on without
looking closely, while the single coated filters are obviously visible). As far as image
quality goes, I don't think there's any difference. I use both brands on my zeiss/schneider
lenses and can't decipher any distortion through the loupe. At night, I prefer to go with
no filter provided the weather is benign (no wind, dust storms, rain, etc.). THe pro who
sits near me says he prefers a hood w/ no filter, but says to ALWAYS use a hood if there's
one made for that lens.
<p>
I do have a tiffen polarizer for another camera, and , boy, is it flare prone. I don't mean
a little reflection around the edges, I mean bright orange flare right across the center
of the image, making cropping impossible. IMHO, tiffen is really junk. I hear their colored
glass filters are really some colored liquid sandwiched in between two pieces of glass.
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For my 6x6, I have a 40, 90 macro, and 180 tele and don't really feel that I'm missing any
shots. If I had a 300, I'd probably use it for long-distance scenes at the expense of the
180, so I figure a 1.4x teleconverter w/ the 180 (to become a 250/4) will probably be
sufficient, not to mention a LOT cheaper and lighter. If I had to take only one lens, I'd
go w/ my 90 macro. For two lenses, I'd go w/ the 40 (very compact) and the 90 (big because
it's a macro, but light because the glass is small).
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This past weekend, the dial that controls the shutter speed on my 6008 integral
malfunctioned. When it is in "A" (aperature priority or full auto) or bulb mode,
everything's okay. But when one turns it to any shutter speed between 30 sec and
1/500 (1/1000 for the PQS lens), it reads '15" ' for the first one or two clicks
and "30" ' for all the remaining shutter speeds. Upon pressing the shutter release,
it is, indeed, either 15 seconds or 30 seconds. The lens aperature adjustments seem to
work correctly. I was using freshly charged batteries (tried two of them). Other than
this problem, all other body fuctions seem to work properly.
<p>
Another problem I discovered that appears to be unrelated but somewhat trivial is
that when the magazine drawslide is up (in the "change" position), the shutter will
fire if the shutter release is pressed instead of it being disabled and the word
"slide" appearing in the display. I recently bought a new magazine (the malfunctioning
one is 5 months old) last week and the word "slide" is displayed when the shutter
release is pressed with the drawslide in the change position, so I know that problem
is with the older magazine (the original one that came with the body...purchased new
5 months ago).
<p>
Now here's the catch. The shop I purchased it from in Tokyo does not belong
to the Japanese distributorship, so they would have to send it back to Germany for
repair, which takes up to 6 months from what I'm told. I also never bothered to send in the
warranty registration number, but still have the original warranty card with the
serial number on it (but no date of purchase since the store didn't fill it out) and
the accompanying sales receipt with the serial number and date of purchase. The store
I purchased it from says the warranty is for 6 months, of which there is one month
remaining. The Rollei distributorship in Japan has a repair facility, but I'm told that
they, in general, will only honor the warranty for cameras purchased through their dealer
network. Is there any way I can get it repaired without having to wait 6 months for it to be
fixed? That seems ridiculous. I'm told that if I had purchased the camera in the US, I'd
have to send it back to the US to get it repaired. You'd think that for something this
expensive, there would be some kind of worldwide product support...customers don't always
reside in the same country as the product is purchased in.
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If you plan to use your camera overseas, you might have problems getting 220 film. In Japan
120 is very popular, but 220 is very difficult to find. Even the largest camera chain store
in the country doesn't carry much 220, and at one time, was out of Velvia 220 for over one
month! When I bought a second 6x6 film back, I opted for the 120 just for this reason.
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I'm planning to buy a flash and have narrowed it down to either the Metz 60 CL (CT?) or
the Metz 45CL4. It's to be used for general use (portraits, fill-in) w/ a Rollei 6008
w/ 40mm (or longer) lens. Do I really need the extra power of the model 60? (Is the 45CL4
enough?). Is the NiCad battery pack recommended?
<p>
--Jim
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Though the low price and built-in meter make this a virtual impossibility, you could look
at the Horseman SW612 (don't think it has a meter, though). It's about the size of a Mamiya 7, yet different formats (6x7,6x9,6x12) can be used with either 120 or 220 film, provided
you buy the converting back plate. It's "only" about $3K including the Rodenstock lens (see
the B&H webpage), which is less than the Mamiya w/ wide angle lens.
Follow-up to "Problems with Rollei 6008 integral"
in Medium Format
Posted
This is a follow-up to the original posting I made regarding service
problems with my Rollei. I also posted the identical response as an
answer to the original question, but figured that posting it as a new
question would gain more reader attention.
<p>
Here's what I found out about the repair. As I mentioned before, I
didn't purchase the body through one of the distributor's stores, so
the distributor's repair facility will NOT honor the warranty. I
received the repair estimate (from the distributor/service center) of
$100 for parts and $200 for labor to replace a 'shutter board.' It
will take more than 3 MONTHS to receive the parts for the repair. The
problem with the magazine is that it just needs some adjustment so the
body "knows" when the darkslide is closed. That estimate is $130 for
the labor for the magazine, so the total is over $400 or more than 10%
of the price of a new body kit!
<p>
I have sent email to twice Rollei at their information email address
in Germany (info@rollei.de) as well as the Rollei digest, and have yet
to receive any response from either place. It appears the only
alternative I have is to send it back to Germany and wait up to 6
months for the repair. Needless to say, especially for a product this
expensive, I'm very unhappy with the lack of product support/service.