bobby_cranford

Joshua, I did the same thing last Christmas. My local camera shop carried the new hot

foot in stock for less than $10 if I remember right. (Definitely, less than $20). There is

some soldering involved and since I did not know how to do that or have the tools, they

did it for me for an extra $20? I do not remember the exact amount, but it seems like it

was in the $30-40 range total. I was surprised it was easy to get done as it was. I thought

I would have to send it in to Nikon. I gathered that this is a common type repair.

 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

 

Bobby

I just got a 18-200 VR lens this weekend. Nice lens. I have noticed

that between 70 & 135mm (really about 80-120mm), the lens will not

focus to infinity in AF. This is with the VR on or off. I am using

it on a D70s with version 1.00 firmware. Has anybody seen this

problem?

Thanks for the answers so far. I should have said something about money. I was thinking $1k-$1.5K for the computer and monitor. The printer and digital darkroom stuff comes later. I see the ads for the $400-$600 systems at Best Buy, et al, but figured that these aren't enough computer. I don't need the highest end machine, just looking for something in the reasonable range. (But realistic that some money will have to be spent.)

I would like recommendations on what type of computer to purchase

for normal home use with an eye to being able to use it for digital

darkroom work. I have looked at some of the posted comments and

either they are older or they are way above my computer knowledge

(meaning they are threads about custom machines with specific

components). I would like to stay with a PC (nothing against

Apple). I use a PC notebook at work and am used to the

environment. The last computer I owned at home was a Commodore 64.

 

So, what I was hoping for was some advice on something available at

a Circuit City, Dell, Best Buy, Walmart, etc. that is sufficient.

 

How much memory? 1GB

Monitor choice. Are flat screens good enough now for digital

darkroom?

 

Sorry, this is so open, but while I can use a computer, I have never

been into the actual hardware and what is required. I just know,

turn it on, enter the passwords and get the work done. Be gentle.

I attended a workshop in 2003 with Gordon Hutchings. He had one of these meters. I used it when he let me try out his Galvin 6x9. It is small and built well. You look through a viewfinder, press the button and read the EV. A dial on the body then gives you the Fstop and shutter speed, same as the Pentax meter. I only shot one roll of film with it, but the negatives were accurately exposed. I used it inside a house in shadows for a 10-20 sec exposure and out in direct sunlight. It was nice and small, but the price seems high. I did buy a Galvin, but found a reasonably priced Pentax meter.

I have had the same problems. I took a course at the Formulary last year with Gordon Hutchings. I shot a number of rolls of BPF200 (in 120 size). Not only did I get pin holes, I have also had chunks come out of the emulsion. (All developed in PMK). Gordon didn't really have any comments, but the man who owns the Formulary told me that he had heard of similar problems with BPF200. When you get a clean negative, it is a beautiful thing in PMK, but because of the quality issues with the emulsion, I have quit using it. I hope someone has more information to add here on this point.

Cliff:

 

I had a 2.8E Planar until it was stolen last summer out of my car. Very nice camera. I had a Maxwell screen installed in it. I paid $450 for the camera and another $125 (?) for the screen back in 2000. I'm no expert, but I would guess $400-500 would be reasonable.

 

There is nothing wrong with the E camera. They were built mostly in the 50's I think. I took mine with me on business trips with no problems (until the theft). If you can get it for a good price, it is a nice medium format camera.

I had to send my 6008i in to Rollei because if was hanging up in the cold. They fixed it quickly and were very nice to deal with. Give them a call to discuss. The few times I have had questions or for the repair, they were easy to work with.

I have tried BPF200 in 120 roll film size. It stains nicely in PMK. I took a How to Pyro course last year with Gordon Hutchings and he spoke very highly of the film and its characteristics. My 120 film printed nicely. My problem is that every roll I developed had places where the emulsion just flaked off. It was not a normal scratch or mishandling, 0.5mm to 1mm chucks just flaked off. This happened on 12 rolls of film. I have not had the problem with other films like HP5 or FP4.

 

Because of this, I do not use it. A number of the rolls were developed at the workshop with fresh PMK and TF4, so I do not think that is the problem. Anyway, my flaking problem aside, it is a very nice film in PMK.

Sharif:

 

I started into Medium format with a Rolleiflex 2.8E. (It was stolen out of my car last year during a trip). It is a nice camera. If you like the feeling of mechanical objects, it is wonderful. The Hasselblad is also. I would go for the Rollei if you do not want to use additional lenses. This was my thought at first, but I got hooked on Medium format and wound up buying a Rollei 6008i, so beware the lure of the larger negative.

 

One thing to consider concerning the Rollei or for that matter all of the older cameras is the focusing screens. On the older models, they tend to be dim, so you might want to budget for a replacement screen from Maxwell Optics or Beattie. I had one in my Rolleiflex - big improvement.

 

It is a pleasure to work with a medium format negative in your own darkroom.

 

Sincerely,

 

Bobby

View Camera is offering in Oct., a tour of Chaco Canyon, Canyon de Chelly and Mesa Verde. I went on the same workshop 2 years ago. Steve Simmons, Kurt Giddings and Gordon Hutchings were the instructors. Very nice men and the days were full. Kurt knows the history and archeology of the area, so that helps. They arrange private tours of the areas, so it only the workshop group which is nice for picture taking.

I would be interested if the plate was designed to be mounted on the ball head along the light path axis. Does your design take care of the problem caused with the RRS plates when tightened down? I am refering to the lens mount being pulled out of round if the mounting screw is tightened very much. From your description, it seems that you are using the dovetail in the camera which is a good thing.

 

As far as offering advice on if you could sell a few hundred, I can only say I would buy 1, which is not much help. Post something here if you decide to go ahead with this project.

I got to use one during a workshop with Gordon Hutchings. I used it for an afternoon. It works pretty much like a Pentax digital spotmeter in that you pick your subject to meter, push the button to get an Ev value and then transfer it to the dial. As pointed out, you have to hold it away from your eye, but that is no big deal. It is small but substantial feeling. It is machined from a solid piece of metal, not made of plastic. I would think it would take some abuse and still function for a long time. Mr. Hutchings spoke highly of its accuracy. The size is a great feature, the accuracy is fine, the price is high.

Congratulations on your new camera. Until mine was stolen on a business trip this summer, I had a 2.8E with Zeiss lens. Got me hooked on medium format. I now have a Rollei 6008i and Galvin view camera. Concerning your questions:

 

Lensshade - I was able to buy on the auction site, a Rollei Bay III hood for about $56, but it did not have a case. The prices for Bay III accessories are high. Be patient.

 

Shutter speeds - my understanding is that the shutter needs exercise to keep it in shape. You noted the speeds improved when you worked it and got it warm. Work with it before shipping to a repairman.

 

The Maxwell screens are not cheap. I installed one and liked it, but I still used the flip up magnifier to focus. Beattie makes bright screens also, but they are about the same price.

 

I never opened my camera to lubricate, so I defer to better men than me.

 

Rolleifix - If you plan on using the camera on a tripod, consider a Rolleifix. The camera back is thin sheet metal. Attached directly to a tripod, the camera is a little flexible. The Rolleifix solves this issue, plus it is a quick release device. Really neat.

 

I have just purchased a larger format enlarger. I have an Omega Dicro C760 XL available. ($175 plus shipping). I also have Nikon 50mm and 80mm lenses ($50 each plus shipping). If you are interested let me know and I can supply a complete inventory. I need to borrow a digital camera to get some pictures.

I have the Schneider. As Thomas points out, the size of the lens is a big plus. I have no experience with the Zeiss, but I would think it is a quality lens. I have been pleased with the Schneider and the quality of the photos. I periodically second guess not getting a 50mm instead so all of my lenses (80 & 150) would have the Bay VI mount. The extra wide view of the 40 comes in handy, so I think I made the right choice. Also, I think the Schnieder might be a little less money (at least new), so combined with the size advantage, I went for the Schneider.

I have had the Rollei for almost 2 years. It has been on several car and plane trips to different locations in the U.S. It has been in the deserts and below freezing temperatures. I have not had any electronic problems with the camera. There was an issue in cold weather which I thought was due to the batteries loosing power. It turned out to be a mechanical problem with the mirror. When the camera got cold, there was a contraction of one part inside which would cause the mirror to stick in the up position and skip frames on the film. I sent the camera back to Rollei USA. They tested it, found the problem, made the repair and returned it FOC within a week. Rollei's service has been very good. The few conversations I have had with them have been polite and helpful.

 

I use the camera for landscape and portraits. I am an amatuer, so it is not used continuosly. But, it does get banged around in my travels. I take care of my equipment, but it does get used. I have the 40mm S.A., 80mm Planar and 150mm S.A. All good lenses and a nice range for my pictures.

 

I have thought about a large format camera and maybe one day. I don't plan on making really large prints, so the 6x6 negative has been more than sufficient.

 

If you can, try one before you buy it.

 

Sincerely,

I had him install a screen in a Rollei TLR about 3 years ago. If I remember correctly, it took about 6 weeks to turn it around. The work was done well and I enjoy the screen. 7 months is excessive. I had to pester him some to get my camera done. He does seem to procrastinate or get side tracked on other projects. Hope you your camera soon. They are a pleasure to use.

I wanted to solicit some comments on switching to large format from

medium format. I have been shooting B&W with 6x6 for the last 2

years. Quality is good, but the lure of movements and individual

control over each sheet of film is tempting. I do not normally

enlarge past 11x14. Most of my pictures are 8x10 or 8x8 in square.

If I switch, I am considering just contact printing.

 

I am looking for comments from those that have made 5x7 contacts.

Have you been satisfied with the results as far as size is concerned

or would you prefer larger? I realize the subject matter can dictate

this decision. The pictures I enjoy the most are those that extract

some detail out of the scene like a single tree in a landscape or a

portion of an interesting brick wall. I have taken some of my prints

and put them in a 5x7 mat to get a feeling for the size. Holding

them up against the wall, I find that landscapes get lost, but the

detail type shot works for me. It kind of asks you to come closer

and take a look. The reason for the large format thinking, is when

you come in for the closer look, the overall detail of the print

would very high because of contact print.

 

This is a meandering train of thought, but I would like some comments

from anyone who does (or did do) 5x7 contacts and the impressions

from them. I think they would be fun to make, intimate to view and

not overwhelming on a wall or in an album.

I have had my camera for about 1.5 years. I have made only a few shots hand held. I mostly use the tripod. The brief experience I have with it hand held seems to be fine for me. The grip to me is the key for comfort. All the controls are at your right hand except for the focus and aperature which can be easily worked with the left which is under the camera supporting it.

 

Since the service issue has been brought up, I would like to say I have had good service from Rollei USA. I dropped a lens and 120 back in a river last year. Carmin was very helpful in working with me and the insurance company to get replacements. (Oddly enough lenses and film backs are not waterproof. They make especially nice sounds when the water is full of grit.)

 

This morning I faxed Rollei with another question. Carmin called within 1 hour of them opening and was very helpful. Rollei service in the past seems to have been bad, but I think the regrouped Rollei USA is at least trying very hard to be helpful. The Grey market issue is another point. All the equipment I have purchased came from Kurland Photo, so it was not a factor.

Congratulations. It is a wonderful camera. I have the 150 Tele Xenar. I have not tried the 180, but the 150 is lighter and not too big overall. It is just about 25mm longer than the 80 and the same diameter, so it is easy to hand hold. Outside, it is bright enough for easy focusing. The 150 Tele Xenar is only available used. I paid too much for mine compared to a new 150, but it is my favorite lens of the 3 I own (40SA, 80, & 150SA). It will not give you a head shot without adding an extension ring. The out of focus plane has a nice look. Also, it uses the same filters and attachments as the 80, so that is a plus to not have multiple filters or adapters. There are a number of favorable reviews of the 180 here also.

After using Photo.net last year to extensively research my medium

format decision, I finally settled on the Rollei 6008i. I noted many

unfavorable comments concerning the service offered by Rollei-USA.

During a recent photo trip, I managed to drop a lens and 120 back

into a river. I contacted Rollei as to what do. To make a long

story short, Carman at Rollei-USA was exceedingly helpful. They bent

over backwards to help and follow up. During my discussions with

them, I noted that they seem to be making a big effort to support the

product and help the U.S. market. I believe the U.S. warranty versus

import (ex. Robert White purchased) is still an issue, but I

understand their veiwpoint on this.

 

I just wanted to make a positive comment for people possibly

researching Rollei cameras, but were reluctant due to other comments

posted here from past experiences. The camera system is worth a look

if you are considering medium format. Hopefully others are seeing an

improvement at Rollei-USA

I am about to expand my lens selection for my Rollei 6008i.

Currently, I have only the 80mm. I want to add the 40mm Schneider

which gets rave reviews, but would like something longer than the 80

for portraits and some landscape. The 180 and 300 seem like great

lenses, but are also heavy. Looking at the type of pictures I take,

they seem to be too much in focal length. I wanted to hear some

opinions from people using the Zeiss 110/2 on the Rollei. It appears

to be a wonderful lens. My intended usage would be for portraits and

some landscape work. Also, I am pondering using it with a 2x

converter to get some distance. I would like comments on the 2x as

well. I just cannot see needing a long telephoto for the type of

shooting I do. A larger range of lenses would be ideal, but like

most good products, these Rollei lenses don't come cheap.

I experienced a problem this weekend on one roll of TMax100 in my

Rollei 6008i. Two of the images looked as though the transport began

before the image taking was finished. There was a ghost image

between the frames and on to the next frame. This happened on 2

frames of a 120 roll. One occurance at image 4 and the other on the

last frame. The fifth frame had no image from the picture I took.

It only had the partial ghost image from the previous image. All the

other frames were fine.

 

I tried a roll of Ilford HP4 afterwards with no problems.

 

I called Rollei and they think it is a combination of the TMax

thickness and a low battery charge (The temperature was about 60F, so

this was not an issue.) They said TMax can cause problems in the

transport because the film base is thicker and not as subtle.

 

I was wondering if any other Rollei users had a similar experience

with TMax or other films.

 

I have run about 20 rolls of TMax through it with no problem since I

got the camera about 3 months ago.

Yes, it actually does happen. Our company happens to be one that goes with this policy and I know others as well. Typically, in this case the wholly owned subsidaries of overseas companies will have their exchange rates fixed by the headquarters. The companies based in the U.S. pay in dollars, so the advantage of the exchange rate is had by the factories and not by the subsidaries. You learn to work around it. It is not always pleasant. I was only suggesting this as a possibility as to what is happening here.

In defense of some of the points made by Bob Solamon, I would like to comment on my work experience. I work for a European owned company. We sell high end industrial product, but maybe the thinking of Rollei (and Mamyia) in their pricing is similar to our company's. We too run into situations where the prices are cheaper in Europe and have customers call us on this. Remember, besides the normal business overhead which any company in any country has, there are import duties to pay, shipping costs and the one that always stings us the worst, the exchange rate. Typically, the parent company fixes the exchange rate (in their favor of course) for the entire year. While the dollar may be strong it does not mean that we or possibly Rollei USA is buying the product at the current rate. The factories may be keeping the exchange rate margin for themselves. In Europe, especially since conversion to the Euro began, the prices across borders have somewhat come to the same level. U.S. companies are stilling buying in dollars and if Rollei is like us, the U.S. subsidary is paying at a predetermined exchange rate. I assume this to be the case for most of the camera manufacturers since almost all are currently offering some type of promotional rebate or product offer. While the economic situation could account for some of this, I think it is due to the strong dollar.

 

I agree that the internet is posing some serious problems for worldwide companies. I have purchased a Gitzo tripod from Robert White at a tremendous savings. The service was great. I purchased a Rollei 6008i from Kurland Photo. The price was the same as Robert White, but the lens was a PQ instead of a PQS. Eli Kurland told me he had purchased a number of special kits from Rollei to be offered at a special price. The current product rebate did not apply, but if I purchased from Robert White, it would not have applied either. The camera is U.S. warrantied.

 

I just wanted to add this exchange rate comment in defense of Bob Solamon's comments about U.S. distributors of imported products. By the way, I do not know Bob Soloman.