lester_wareham

@ David. I qualified my comment by saying "with the same framing".

I am currently shooting this lens with the 7D and 6D, so this is my observation. A subject you need 3x on for crop you may

need to go to 5x on the full frame. Tbh result are not so different, but at lower magnifications the full frame has the edge.

Of course managing the working distance and interference of your flash rig on the surroundings gets harder at high

magnification.

On the 6D I have done some sucsesfuly natural light work handheld up to about 3x, great for subjects like the Green Tiger

Beetle where flash would have to be very heavily diffused to be acceptable.

Most of use photographing insects with this lens work handheld, normally with flash.

A crop body or full frame is good, easier to get close in with a crop but full frame gives slightly better resolution at the

same framing.

For flash I would avoid ring flash due to the ring reflections this causes. Better options are the twin flash (expensive) or a

conventional flash with a bracket and hot shoe cable. Searches will turn up examples of the latter.

For good results flash diffusion is advisable, again searches should turn up examples.

One hint for the camera is as you will be using flash it helps if you can adjust the flash exposure compensation without

removing the camera from your eye. The less highly featured Canon bodies only permit the FEC adjustment using the monitor quick menu and don't indicate the setting in the viewfinder.

I wonder if we will see the f8 AF capability, that would be an improvement. Assuming the AF is similer to the 5D III this

should be possible.

I just got one and can confirm there is no problem with the 7D AI servo, all recent lenses must have the new firmware.

The lens seems to give good results and seem well constructed.

A bit of feed back on using DPP 4 compared to the current 3.

I like lots of the new features but why not have copy and paste of settings implemented (greyed out) one has to go via

save recipie to file and load from file, this does make it look half baked.

Also update of files on return from the edit window is much slower, attempting to save too early results on lots of ding

sounds and pop up warning windows of not being able to access the file.

Also batch processing seems slower.

<p>So is there any position on if edits made on DPP 4.0 are backwards compatible with DPP 3.x?</p>

<p>Ie I edit a file with 4.0, will DPP 3.x see the changes correctly?<br>

I "assume" the reverse is true else it would be very bonkers, but I should probably ask that also?</p>

<p> </p>

Hi Derek,

That looks quite marked, I assume these a 100% crops.

The only caveat I would have on those images is where the focus plane was, if you were using the foreground object as a

focus target the plane could shift around. Canon might suggest this.

I would recommend using a high contrast target all in a single plane to avoid that sort of discussion, newsprint is a good

choice.

Derek, I did controlled tests on my 24-105 when I first received it, testing at around 1/200 and 105mm there was very little

difference in MTF 50% between IS ON and IS OFF, well within measurement uncertainty.

Ref IS OFF tripod. 58 lp/mm

Handheld IS OFF. 50 lp/mm

handheld IS ON. 45 lp/mm

You can get to the 100% crops via a menu system.

The write up is here http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/LensTests/IS_Tests/EF_24_105mm_f4L_IS_105mm/

I have not checked since to see if things have degraded, but I can only assume what you describe is a fault condition.

Jamie Robertson "Price fixing of any sort is illegal in the UK. Perhaps that's why prices are so much more expensive here

to start with."

I think it has got more to do with the hordendous level of tax we are charged.

I can't say I have noticed any difference what so ever following the upgrade.

Other than letting a few others try out a new upgrade I would not worry.

As noted thay are both very good. The main difference is the Canon lens is an internal focus design but I believe the

Tamron is overall linear extension, this gets longer when it focuses closer.

100 mm is probably the ideal length for handholding with bugs.

A 180 can be nice for the larger bugs but needs more light to handhold.

The 7D on board flash has to fire the preflash to communicate with the slave, you should be able to dial the built in flash

contribution to the exposure using the flash control menu on the 7D.

Look at p123 to 128 of the 7D PDF manual.

Looking at the details http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/ef/data/macro/ef_100_28macro.html the old

100mm looks like it has the mount lip for the ring and twin flash, if not the adaptor rings are inexpensive.

The macro flashes cables easily cope with the extension of the MP-E so they should ok with the 100mm.

The 100 should mount ok on the 10D, the 10D looks like it supports ETTL and not ETTL II http://www.canon.com/camera-

museum/camera/dslr/data/1995-2004/2003_eos-10d.html?lang=us&categ=crn&page=1995-2004&p=2 but the flashes do

TTL, ETTL and ETTL II.

I use the Canon 100 and 180, both are very good, the 180 is much harder to handhold due to the longer focal length and

weight, I expect this applies to the sigmas too.

The 150 is newer and seems to be a compromise length between they standard ~100mm length and the longer 180mm.

If you are hanging on to you 90mm rather than replacing I would suggest the 180 is the way to go to see the maximum

difference, if replacing then perhaps not.

I think all the true macro lenses are so good in terms of quality I would only worry about operational issues.

I can confirm the most recent DPP was able to update the DLO data base on a Windows 7 PC, there was a hitch at first

where it couldn't connect but was ok a second time.

What operating system are you using?

Get the latest DPP.

Try at different times of the day.

Try disabling antivirus and firewalls.

When I got my 7D I did some micro adjustment testing, I found the 50/1.4 to be very inconsistant, but this was using MTF

measurements, it would be hard to spot just comparing images. Some overview info here

http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/Camera%20Tests/Microadjust/index.htm

Actualy I changed from ACR to DPP when going from the 20D to 7D, genrally I find it better for most raw editing allthough

I do sharpening and JPEG conversion in photoshop using a TIFF intermediary.

Control of EXIF info is zero in DPP, copyright is in the raw from the camera but description can be added from the other

Canon raw tool imagebrowser.

Removing EXIF data would be via adobe bridge in the usual way, I forget how you do it but I know it is easy.

So DPP is fine for RAW editing but most other stuff is bridge/photoshop.

I like DPP too. I used PS with my 20D but switched back to DPP for the 7D. The only thing I use photoshop for is

sharpenjng with masked layers, other masked operations etc.

I agree it would be difficult to manage without PS but I just don't bother to upgrade it any more.

I like DPP too. I used PS with my 20D but switched back to DPP for the 7D. The only thing I use photoshop for is

sharpenjng with masked layers, other masked operations etc.

I agree it would be difficult to manage without PS but I just don't bother to upgrade it any more.

I like DPP too. I used PS with my 20D but switched back to DPP for the 7D. The only thing I use photoshop for is

sharpenjng with masked layers, other masked operations etc.

I agree it would be difficult to manage without PS but I just don't bother to upgrade it any more.

As bob said on 1. For 2 yes you can set a lower magnification to get the same framing but of course that is limited to 1x,

in practice you need an ordinary macro lens also for the larger subjects.

Note the MP-E is quite a tough lens to learn macro on with live subjects, so if that is your interest it may be worth starting

with a standard 100mm macro lens first.

Also flash is almost mandatory for live subjects and the MP-E. I favour the MT-24 twin flash but people get great results

with an ordinary flash on a bracket.

To be honest I would not trust any camera in the rain, Canon only define the sealing in their 1 series cameras as

resistant, these are not sealed to the standards of out door electronic kit. I would always use some kind of cover and use

a post rain dry out procedure as a procaution.

I collected some info on so called weather sealing here some time ago for my own interest

http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/Weather%20Protection.htm I too am in the uk you see.

To be honest I would not trust any camera in the rain, Canon only define the sealing in their 1 series cameras as

resistant, these are not sealed to the standards of out door electronic kit. I would always use some kind of cover and use

a post rain dry out procedure as a procaution.

I collected some info on so called weather sealing here some time ago for my own interest

http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/Weather%20Protection.htm I too am in the uk you see.

To be honest I would not trust any camera in the rain, Canon only define the sealing in their 1 series cameras as

resistant, these are not sealed to the standards of out door electronic kit. I would always use some kind of cover and use

a post rain dry out procedure as a procaution.

I collected some info on so called weather sealing here some time ago for my own interest

http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/Weather%20Protection.htm I too am in the uk you see.

To be honest I would not trust any camera in the rain, Canon only define the sealing in their 1 series cameras as

resistant, these are not sealed to the standards of out door electronic kit. I would always use some kind of cover and use

a post rain dry out procedure as a procaution.

I collected some info on so called weather sealing here some time ago for my own interest

http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/Weather%20Protection.htm I too am in the uk you see.