alejandrokeller
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Posts posted by alejandrokeller
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I will Alex, very soon
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Any comments about the claim of Zeiss saying that this lens has
reached the theoretical limit for sharpness?
</p><p>
The link: <a
href="http://www.zeiss.de/c12567a8003b58b9/Contents-Frame/30536193ed0c97a7c125711c006fc2c2"
>Zeiss News 24</a>.
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QC, I would answer but I cannot type anymore. I traded both legs and arms, as suggested by Paul, for a Hasselblad 2000 camera ;) I am normally very critical about what I read in internet, but there are several sites showing this history about the film numbers (with years confirming it). I read also in one of those "non-trusty" places that, as you said, KODAK did NOT numbered their films like that. They were rebels and used to call their film 620 to stress out that it had six 6x9cm images on it. 120 became the standard at some point with eight 6x9 images.
May not be true but it is the best explanation that I have heard... unless Paul can come out with a better one... Paul!!! are you reading? And thanks for the good laught, you made my day.
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Jesus Paul, then I guess hasselblad intended their 500 series to be rather cheap (dont even mention the 200 series). That, or they wanted their users to be earlier and get better places to take the pictures.
Really the best explanation I have heard.
Q.G. you broke my illusion, I always believed blindly in Wikipedia.
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Well, speaking of sharpness, look at what the people of Zeiss say about
<a href="http://www.zeiss.de/C12567A8003B58B9/ContentsWWWIntern/30536193ED0C97A7C125711C006FC2C2" >another one of this ZM lenses</a>.
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Steve said: <i>All 2 1/4 X 2 1/4 (6cm x 6cm)camera's have horizontal film paths, so their frame height is decided by the film's width.</i></p><p>
Nope, I have two 6x6 cameras. On the Hasselblad V system, the width of the film is the width of the frame. On my Agfa Isolette III (Vintage Folding Camera), the width of the film is the higth of the frame. At the end, because the format is square, it does not really matters.
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120 was called so because, starting in 1895, the film types were numbered from 101 to 130 according to the year when they were introduced. Look at the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_format" >film entry in Wikipedia</a> if you do not believe me. Therefore, 120 realy means <i>type 20</i> film... I guess that afterwards somebody had the brilliant idea of changing the 1 in <b>1</b>20 (i.e. type 20) for a 2 when they introduced the <b>2</b>20 film to point out that it was 2 times as long.
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Now the system is working perfectly, just as it did before. Thought you would want to know. Thanks you... and hope that this thank you note wont get deleted.
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Arkin, what kind of sekonic do you have? can you do spot measurement with it? I use the 558, which does spot measurement, and found that that is more than enought to determine the exposure time. I will spend some time determining what the different zones are and then set the exposure of my camera accordingly. As easy as that... Having say that, I must add that night photography is not what I usually do, but I have always got the exposure right with this technique.
</p><p>
Other important factor is, how long will your exposure be? I never have use times longer than 1s. If you plan to use longer times you will have to correct for the <a href="http://www.google.com/search?q=Schwarzschild+effect" >Schwarzschild effect</a>... there are other important things besides getting the exposure right. For instance, which apperture value you should use to get a specific shape from bright lights, etc. But someone else can give you better advice on those things.
</p><p>cheers, Alejandro</p><p>PS of course a tripod, cable release and previous lifting of the mirror are all a must.
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Thanks Brian that is very comforting. I dont do street photography, so in my case it has to be (a) not good... I can accept that and live with it, but the fact is that we all (all the people posting above, that is) have been experiencing a change in the recent rates system thruogh the last months. In my case, (a), it would mean that I am getting worst and worst with time. Indeed, after two days with zero ratings, my last image got 8 rates within one hour and was placed as one of my worst images ever. How come that, after two days of having only politically correct raters, so many people voluntered in such a short time?
The real point is that this has happen to me, without exeptions, since the beggining of the year. The time that it takes from the critique request till the first rate arrives is increasing. This has happen with all the categories and with images rated both high and low. I do not thing this has to do with (a) because my rating average has actuelly increased during this time.
Any other idea? could there be a (d)?
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The question is, is it really worth to submit your images for ratings? At this moment, they do not seem to get much attention.
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After almost two whole days, my picture has now 3 rates... and one is from a guy that has rated about 1500 images in the last 5 days! (wonder how he does that)
Brian, your mention of the 4400 rates/day does not convinces me that it is bussines as usual.
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Well Brian, 4400 recent ratings may be a normal number but my image has been arround for 1 1/2 days now and still has zero ratings. Maybe it would be a good idea to recheck that algoritm.
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Ricardo, I am experiencing the same. <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/10016320" >This image</a> has been up there for about 24 hours without rates, comments or anything. I have been experiencing a decrease in ratings since some months now but it has now reached the absolute minimum.</p><p>Wish that somebody could explain what is happening.
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Q.C. it is probably the different kind of publicum. From what I know, the Japanese are the ones that are more interested in the boken than anybody else. Would be interested to know how Hasselblad scores in that market... As for how much the five blades will influence the boken, here is my <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/4030213" >most extreme example</a>. Taken with an extension ring + a 150mm CF lens:
</p><center><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/4030213-lg.jpg" /></center>
<p>The pentagon is pesent everywhere and not only on the brightest highlights.</p>
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Christopher, I think that is part of the original question. Is it really better to go for the more sophisticated model? After all, the simplicity of this cameras (in comparison to today's electronic monsters) is part of their beauty.
As for the lens, after the 50's, coated was the standard. Of course there were differences but there will always be a big discussion regarding which one produces better pictures. Maybe a lot of people will disagree with me, but in my opinion, if you go for a folder it is because you have a very special approach to photography. I could not care less about details like MTF graphs and those kind of things. I just want to know what the signature of my lens is...and I can assure you that even the Apotar version of my Isolette III produces images that have a precious-like visual quality.
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Try <a href="http://www.marginalsoftware.com/LS8000Notes/LS8000Notes.htm" >this page</a> (at the bottom) and <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coolscan8000-9000/message/2427" >this thread</a> in the <a href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/coolscan8000-9000/" >Nikon 9000/8000 yahoo group</a>.
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Robert, check out the site of this jurgen guy (<a href="http://www.certo6.com" >certo6.com</a>). He seems to be doing a very good work. The only reason why I have not bought from him is that it feels a little strange to have the cameras fly all the way across the ocean when there are so many arround in Europe. Write to him and ask him all these questions... I dont really have that much experience but I can tell you that I am having a great time with <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=564447" >my Isolette III</a> (slower Apotar 85mm f/4.5 version).
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Actually, <b>I find the uncoupled rangefinder very usefull</b>, specially if I want to be discrete. I can measure the distance with the camera closed. Only then, I open it and focus. The camera is, of course, very silence. Great for street photography or spontaneous snapshots... I do forget ocassionally about adjusting the lens to match the rangefinder, but only because I have always used Relfex Cameras.
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:-D
Very good Shawn, just what I wanted.
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Yes, but you need to be a chess master to figure out the best strategy.
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<center>
<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/10014090-lg.jpg" />
</p><p><i>Agfa Isolette III, Apotar 85mm f/4.5</i>
</center>
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<b>Yann</b>, since PN introduced new possibilities for uploading images, the upper left image is not necessarely the newest one. Look at <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00F9P5" >this ignored threat</a>.
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I was writting at the same time as Edward. The book that he recommends is a must if you are serious about ussing Hasselblad. On the other hand, once you start to use it regularly, it will look as if the Hasselblad system was the most intuitive camera in the world.
to keller; street lamp, post, tree
in No Words
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