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alejandrokeller

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Posts posted by alejandrokeller

    Rangefinder calibration in NYC

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    mmmhhh... that with the focus at infinity seems to be a common issue. I have the same problem with my ZI. But, since the infinity range is not that critical and the close range seems to work fine (I did the focus test that I mentioned above: http://www.photo.net/learn/focustest/), I did not payed much attention to it... On the other hand, I never used the camera with less than f/2 (I only have ZM lenses).

     

    Now, I have to write an email to Zeiss and see what they say about that.

    Rangefinder calibration in NYC

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>If your Zeiss Ikon is brand new, why do you think it will require a calibration? Every single Zeiss Ikon item (lenses, camera, etc) is sent to Germany for testing and comes with a quality control certificated...</p>

     

    <p>I don't know if you have used a rangefinder camera before. If you don't, probably you'll get several unsharp images until you get used to the focusing system... at least in my case it was like that ;-)... for your peace of mind, if you want to test the calibration of your rangefinder, you can do the ruler test described here (and please use a tripod when taking the pictures of the ruler): <a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/focustest/" >http://www.photo.net/learn/focustest/</a></p>

     

    <p>cheers, <i>Alejandro</i><p>

    Too late to start Medium Format?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    There is also the issue about the bokeh that you get using different formats. Even if you use the same brand, the control of the DOF that you will get is always better with film than with digital. This comes from the fact that all the DSLR sensors are smaller than the original negative format. Digital cameras will always give you a wider DOF than their film counterpart if you use the same apperture and the equivalent focal lenght. If you want to control the focus on your images to make them more expressive, you are still better off using film. Digital images, specially the ones that come from small sensors, tend to have too wide DOF, which sometimes ruin what otherwise would be a good image... MF, btw, happens to have a very nice bokeh. That, together with the larger negatives, is a good motivation to change format.

     

    There are, of course, some digital backs for MF. Those sensors are so big that they dont have that problem. But most of us cannot pay 20'000+ Euros for them.

     

    I wrote more about that here: http://www.ball-saal.com/ThirdParty/phorum-5.0.13a/read.php?2,7603

    Image colors shift when uploaded to photo.net

    in PhotoNet Site Help

    Posted

    Dan, it must be what John says. In my PC monitor, both images are identical. I am looking at them with Firefox 1.5.

     

    So, even if you see a difference in your monitor the rest of the world, or at least PC users (i.e. most of the rest of the world), will see only the non-flattering version. If you care so much about the color quality, try saving your images as sRGB if you plan to upload them.

    Self Portraits with Camera

    in PhotoNet Site Help

    Posted

    Was just jocking, Milo.

     

    I happen to believe that all those photographic cliches, including beautiful sunsets (most of them are beautiful if you were there with your girlfriend, but not at all in the picture), should have a low rate. But, then again, other people may think that all my images fall in that kind of category... At the end, I am anyway completelly disapointed by the rating system, specially by the anonimous ratings.

    Washed out image

    in PhotoNet Site Help

    Posted

    Alex, do you save your images with a color profile other than sRGB? if so, the PN software will take that profile away. The resulting image will have a wrong color rendering.

     

    Always save your images as sRGB jpegs if you intend to upload them to PN.

    Impartial Observers Wanted

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <i>How good is Leica?</i></p><p>

    Depends for whant. For your pocket, for instance, it is very bad ;)</p><p>

    I guess that for arstistic purpouses, the best camera is the one that you feel comfortable with. If you are in doubt, you could rent one and see how you feel with it (althought I always need several films and many days to get comfortable with a new camera)... At the end, it is probably much more important to develop your own style than what kind of gear you use.

    Hasselblad Biogon lens flare

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    Look for sunset or sunrise images. There are a lot around in PN. Some of them have some flair, But none as bad as this one, and some others have none really visible. I may be mistaken, but I dont think that they took them with the lens cap on ;)

    </p><p>There are even more drastic examples around. But I was looking yesterday to <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2300527&size=lg" >this</a> and <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/915400&size=lg" >this</a> images of Jeff Grant, wich have a similar situation to the one of George: Sun in the frame, only partially covered by clouds... Actually, it would not be a bad thing to ask Jeff directly for advice.

    Hasselblad Biogon lens flare

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    George, read the link from above. If it was in fact filter flare, it will happen even if the lens and the filter are perfectly clean. It has to do with the fact that the light reflects from the outside surface of the lens back into the filter and, then again, back from the filter into the lens. This will happen even with low intensity lights, like street lights on night shots.

    Hasselblad Biogon lens flare

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    This looks like <a href="http://www.photo.net/mjohnston/column66/" >filter flare</a> to me. Because the light source is almost a point almost in the midle, it will most likelly cause defined rings instead of blured mirror image of the light source... You also have a small point in the field, bellow the small house that is also caused by this kind of filter flare.</p><p>Try doing the same image with and without filter to compare.

    </p><p>

    Why will you make an image like this one using a filter anyway? are you using multicoated lens? I dont think that the hasselblad multicoated lenses really need a filter, unless you are using a red or a polarizing filter to get some special contrast.

    Hasselblad Film Back problem. Vertical lines on film.

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    It is, of course, difficult to tell from a jpeg that way sharpenned in PS. But, if there was just a small aperture, it would produce diffraction patterns, that could explain bright and dark lines...

    </p><p>

    If you look at this other <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FlkQ" >previous post</a>, and the <a href="http://www.danloflin.com/files/leaky/" >link within</a>, it seems like a leak can manifest in many "wonderful" ;) patterns. If you look at the images were the leak is not so evident, like in the frames <a href="http://www.danloflin.com/files/leaky/large-16.html" >16</a>, <a href="http://www.danloflin.com/files/leaky/large-18.html" >18</a>,

    <a href="http://www.danloflin.com/files/leaky/large-9.html" >9</a>, and in some of the others, you will see that they all have a similar vertical dark line, a little further away from the edge.

    </p><p>

    Probably the best thing to do is to consult a Hasselblad technician (not so cheap). If it is the light trap, you could also try to change it yourself (but, of course, dont believe what I say, I am just guessing here).

    Would you hire a photographer who are not using Leica?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    a) I would first look at his work an then decide. What kind of gear he uses will not even be in my list of priorities.

     

    b) never! Me and my friends will be enjoying the party while someone else, who also knows what to photograph during a wedding, does the work. I have many good friends, and I would not put them through this hard test, risking to loose their friendship afterwards. I prefer if they (and I) enjoy the day.

    Small compact 6x6?

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <i>A few months ago I shot several scenes side-by-side with both my Super Ikonta IV and my Hasselblad 500CM with 80mm f2.8 CF lens and made 8x8 prints (black and white) of several of them. The scenes were in bright sun so I was stopped down to f11 on both lenses and used 1/500 on both. Looking at the prints, I couldn't tell them apart.</i>

    </p><p>

    Robert, I remember saying that "there are a lot of factors to consider, being the most important the f-value that you select". You were shooting at f11 than wide open. Try doing the same test with the Ikonta lens wide open, or at the second larger aperture, and you may start seeing a difference. After all, you were "only" printing at 8x8, which is nothing for a MF film. Try examining your negatives with a 10x loupe (i.e. a 20"x20" print) and you may see a difference (But then again, you may not. I have never used a Super Ikonta IV and cannot say how it will perform. I just have heard that it is a wonderful camera).

    </p><p>

    BTW, I also remember saying that the quality of my Isolette's print was still good at that same size (8"x8"), and I was shooting in a very dark day and using a large apperture (4.5 or 5.6, I do not remember).

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