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ted_reyes

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Posts posted by ted_reyes

  1. <p>If you are visiting someone in California, another alternative is to order from Adorama or B&H and have it waiting for you.<br>

    I doubt prices will equal to on line stores and as someone mentioned, there is the CA tax.</p>

    <p>I bought a few lenses and flash accessories from Calumet in Escondido and Nelson's in Little Italy because the people in the store were knowlegeable helped me in my selection; basically earning my business. On the othe hand, I made numerous purchases on line when I did the research.</p>

  2. <p>Sounds like you are off to vacation South Africa.  World Cup too?<br>

      Is renting even an option? <br>

    I have used 70-200 2.8 with both 1.4X and 2X for soccer in SoCal.  When stopped down to 7.1 or 8, I am happy with the images from either.  Auto focus is not as good but still faster than if I am using my Tokina lenses.<br>

    Not sure about differences between extenders but I like my Canon images.  Even coupled both for surfing, not great images but I had to pull them in.<br>

     <br>

    My suggestion:  2X, 1.4X and monopod.  I have rented 100-400 and had a choice whether to buy 70-200 or 100-400.<br>

     </p>

  3. <p>If B&H is losing money on each transaction and their volume increases 100X, they will lose 100X more.</p>

    <p>What I do not understand is how Canon can raise prices in a recession.</p>

    <p>There is a recession and many of us will stay with what we have. 30D and 10D are fine for me now.</p>

  4. Buying a present for a first time digital user. They borrowed my S60 and

    enjoyed the pics. Planning to buy them a present and thought these two looked

    good. The only significant diffences I see are the 2 vs 4 batteries, LCD w/

    swival and 6MP vs 8MP. Am I missing something? $80 differnce.

     

    Should I look at Panasonic or Sony? I have a personal bias to Canon as I use

    their DSLR's.

  5. How close can you get? It might be better to shoot w/o 1.4 and instead shoot at f6.7 or f8 and 100ISO. Then crop to the area of interest. I shot a couple of club swim meets with a 70-200 but was able to get pretty close. It was summer and outside in SoCal so f8 was no problem.

     

    On another note, I have shot using a 2X TC, 70-200 f2.8 in Soccer with decent results in bright sun.

  6. 20D or 30D. Minimal lens should be 70-200 f4. I used a 10D with 70-200 f2.8 over the past three seasons. Works great but I will most likely upgrade to 30D for better buffer/AF/viewfinder/etc. Before the 10D, I used a Elan 2E with a 100-300mm f4.5-5.6. Tried that lens once on my 10D and was very disappointed in the comparison with 70-200 f2.8.

     

    For small sided soccer on smaller field, 70-200 is perfect. It can be short for midfielders or central defenders on full sized field or from the stands if one cannot get on sideline.

  7. Having shot numerous club soccer games for the past eight years I would suggest:

    1. Where you shoot from is most important, sideline, end line, midfield, etc. Where does your child play?

    2. Where your child plays ie my son plays in SoCal which typically provides excellent natrual light,

    3. Buy the fastest AF (USM) and best quality glass one can afford.

     

    I started with an Elan 2 and a 100-300USM. Also rented 100-400 L. Pictures were ok with 100-400 L providing much nicer pics as one would expect. Moved to 10D and 70-200 f2.8. Tried my 100-300USM on a trip and will never go back. L glass delivers much better outcome. Sometimes use 2X extender but am not really happy with it unless very bright day plus I then need a momopod.

     

    Using a 70-200 f4 here in SoCal could work and would be the one change I would possibly make.

     

    Here is an example from today: AV mode, f3.5, 70-200L 2.8, 10D, 100ASA, 1/2000

  8. If you like fantastic wind or kite surfing photos, take WA14 east, parellel to the Columbia River. Great scenary on the way to the city of Hood River. Before the Hood River Bridge is the "Hatchery." This is a fish hatchery and one of the best place to get close up shots of some of the best windsurfing in the world. Go on a weekday for parking. After leaving the Hastch, one can drive up Mt. Hood or drive back on I-84 and stop to see waterfalls.

     

    Over in Portland, the Rose Garden is tremendous too.<div>00CbOj-24227284.thumb.jpg.a1eaa83f4d0a05549d7cdf643486296d.jpg</div>

  9. The rebate center workers are either thieves, inept or both. In fact, I believe the first pass goes through the thieves and after complaining, one gets to speak to the inept group. Using this process, the rebate center can reduce Canon's marketing cost for legitamite rebates for those who become frustrated and move on.

     

    I sent my forms in correctly, resent copies of all and resent a third time. The first time they stated that sections of the box were missing. Second and third time, the inept workers stated that my lenses were duplicates and that I could only receive a rebate for one. I guess to the rebate center inept group, an 85 f1.8 and a 17-40 f4 could be construed as the same color? Bottom line is that with persistance, the rebate finally came for the correct value. Giampiero's post above adds a couple of process steps that I will use next time or I will go grey market.

     

    My only question to Canon is, what is this rebate problem costing Canon USA with customers who switch to competitors or who go grey market?

  10. I really like my 17-40. For weddings, you may wish a faster zoom with more range such as a 24-70f2,8. If cost is too high, one could get the Tokina or Tamron pro level 24-80 or a 17-40 plus an 85 f1.8.

     

    When using my 10D flash, I get showdowing with this lens requiring use of my 420EX instead.

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