wendell_kelly

<p>Not very long ago, I shot several rolls using an (and my favorite) M3 with a Canon 50mm/f1.4. The subjects were all ladies, my wife and a lady friend of my wife (all parties are retired).<br> I shot with the lens wide open with winter light streaming into my northern NY State farmhouse windows. The results were more than flattering to the ladies, almost a glow present in each shot.<br> Clinical sharpness is for microfiche readers (should any exist these days).</p>

<p>My comments here are much like those of the contributors who have preceded me.<br> The Leica 4, 4s, and 5 camera bodies are/were competent, usable cameras, but rather ordinary for their time given what else the world offered. What would make a Leica R of this period special would be if it was equipped with a Leitz lens.<br> I have several R4s; two of them function "as new" and the third has defied repair (by the best of the best, I might add). When I'd like to use an automatic Leica, an R4, with a Summicron, is the one that I choose. When I'm not going automatic with a SLR, my favorite is a Leicaflex Standard with a 50mm Summicron or 90mm Elmarit.<br> If you'd like to see what a Leica (SLR or otherwise) can do, then I suggest that you get a Summicron for your new camera when circumstances and finances permit you to do so.<br> I realize that I'm about to espouse heresy here, but if you were to use non-Leitz glass on your camera, I doubt very much that your results would be different had you used a (something other than) Leica camera body. These days, one can buy a Pentax Spotmatic with an f1.4 or f 2 Takumar for the price of a Leica lenscap and the Spotmatic with its native lens will not disappoint you. Hendrickson in Tennessee (check the web) is offering a Spotmatic CLA for US$63 these days).</p> <p>Good light and good shooting.</p>

<p>A screw mount Leica is my choice. My favorite is a IIIf with a 50mm/1.8 Canon/Serenar but a black Jupiter-8 offers an attractive second choice.<br> Everyday, I carry a Leica IIc with a defaced "Leica" engraving that I doubt has seen 150 rolls of film, including the 75 rolls that I've put through it. I have a J-8 on this one and don't worry much about scratches to the vulcanite.<br> My experience has been that I often need a faster lens speed than I can get with the 50mm Elmars, this, despite the attractions of a compact, collapsible lens.<br> I find the Retina IIIC (and the IIC) to be fine travel cameras and often took them with me in the past on a number of visits to Europe. Unhappily, the service shop that I used for preventative CLA's (Essex Camera in New Jersey) seemed unable to degum the Retinas shutter properly and I had malfunctions in the field with a camera three weeks off a (not inexpensive) CLA. I've had no such problems with my Leicas.<br> I also note that an M3 with a collapsible 50mm/f2 Summicron presents a pretty compact package. A photographer who can't capture the image with this combination just isn't trying.</p>

<p>Nice work, and my compliments<br> When I'm not out with a Leica RF, I shoot with a Leica SLR ("standard, round dial), SL, and an SL2). In the end, I find I prefer to the "Leicaflex Standard (again round exposure counter)" with, best of all, a 90mm Elmarit R.<br> Even among Leica cameras, to my touch, the precision or "Swiss Watch" feeling of the first generation Leitz SLR's is self evident. I actually had an engineer friend (I'm a retired scientist), notice and comment on this point.</p> <p>All this having been said, I opine that a Pentax screw mount camera (Spotmatics) isn't to shabby either.</p> <p>Good light everyone.</p> <p> </p>

<p >Bill Mitchell replied to my posting with the comment:</p> <p>"Please turn your attention to what is in your viewfinder and less to what you post here."<br /> What a rude (and unnecessary) thing to say.<br> I suggest to Mr. Mitchell that my comments were neither rude nor unnecessary and were, in fact, to the point.<br> The web is awash in helpful information on how to use the "sunny16/sunny11" rule with a camera that doesn't have an on-board meter. This forum is a fine place to start a search.<br> Between the guidance/suggestions that I offered in my posting, and what one would find on the film information sheet (or lately printed on the inside of the film box) one can make exposures producing useable to really good prints without an on-board or hand held meter. I did this in the years (early 1960's) that I had my first Leica IIIc but was unable to afford a reliable meter.<br> So, when someone, yet once again, posts here a "dear little me, whatever will I do" message without any evidence of having taken the initiative to do a simple web search (or go to his local library) to find the information he needs, I will suggest that he do his homework.<br> Spend the money for two rolls of film. Shoot using the guidance already provided. Learn from your mistakes and take pride in what worked.</p> <p> </p>

<p>There are those of us that would suggest that Leica/Leitz got it really right the first time with the Leica IIIf. Further improvements in the artistic quality of the images produced would better lie in the vision/ability of the individual holding the camera<br> And so, may I further suggest now:<br> 1) That you either buy a reliable light meter or learn how to apply the "sunny 16, or realistically, in the northern hemisphere, "sunny 11" rule.<br> 2) Shoot outdoors using "Sunny 11"<br> 3) Shoot indoors using ASA400 with 1/30th f 2.8 in the (brightly lighted) kitchen or f1.4-f2 in the rest of the house.</p> <p>Please turn your attention to what is in your viewfinder and less to what you post here.</p>

<p>Several:<br> M6 with a 50mm/f2 Hexanon for travel.<br> M3 (preferably DS) with a ZM Planar 50mm/f2 for going unwired.<br> A IIIf with a Canon 50mm/f1.8 or a Nikkor 50mm/f2 for serious work, unwired. (BD fully acceptable, RD better).</p> <p>Good light all-</p> <p> </p>

<p>I paid $30 for the mechanical cleaning, relube, and shimming. One of my J-3's needed internal cleaning of the glass and this was $10 extra. I paid postage both ways - not to bad for something as light as a J-3.</p>

<p>Way back when, 12-14 years ago, one could buy one or more Jupiter-3 lenses from FSU sellers for ca. USD30. I did so and became the owner of four of these jewels, manufactured between 1957 and 1964.<br> I tested each of them at f1.5, photographing a newspaper classified section at 1 meter with the camera on a tripod. The earlier two lenses, pre 1960 were OK/pretty good wide open; the other two 1961 and 1964 were hopeless, completely out of focus wide open.<br> I am all thumbs when it comes to dismantling lenses and, due to these personal shortcomings and lack of ability, cannot make use of the available and very helpful web advice to DIY (re)shim my J-3's. I admit to having ruined a Jupiter-8 while attempting to replace its petrified lens lubricant (read really ugly blob of grease).<br> Fast forward to 2014. I discovered a fellow offering lens service on eBay under the name : <a href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m44.l1181/7?euid=b2af21ec1617491db3012529c8e0d434&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fmyworld.ebay.com%2Fjenstarct%2F%3FssPageName%3DADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1181&exe=10708&ext=25561&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext">jenstarct</a> <a href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11051.m44.l1183/7?euid=b2af21ec1617491db3012529c8e0d434&loc=http%3A%2F%2Ffeedback.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewFeedback%26userid%3Djenstarct%26ssPageName%3DSTRK%3AME%3AUFS%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AX%3ARTQ%3AUS%3A1183&exe=10708&ext=25561&sojTags=exe=exe,ext=ext"> (1571<img src="http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/icon/iconRedStar_25x25.gif" alt="Red Star" width="18" height="18" />)</a>. He offers to clean, relubricate, and polish the mechanics of Russian lenses, but much more importantly to me, check the lens focus on fixture that he made and adjust shims as needed. His prices were quite attractive to me.<br> I sent him my two bad Jupiter-3 lenses and the were returned to me in "on the money" operating condition. The two lenses which formerly produced only a hopeless blur wide open and close now yield images wide open (f1.5) equivalent to a first generation Summicron at f2 (I have those too and can speak from direct observation).<br> The same fellow has now worked his magic on all of my Jupiter-3s.<br> I report this as a satisfied customer or a genuinely useful service offered on the web.</p> <p>Good light all-</p> <p> </p>

<p>IIIf with a Canon 50mm/f1.8 or a Leicaflex Standard with a 90mm Elmarit.</p>

<p>The camera is actually a Leica IIIf rather than a IIIc or a IIIc/IIIf conversion. Small point.</p>

<p>I've been to a number of towns in Tuscany and can't say that part of the world is where I'd go looking for photographic gear.<br> Siena has a great deal to offer a visitor but I can't remember anyplace with photographic offerings. Spend your time in the restaurants or soaking up local culture (plenty of both there).<br> Florence has a couple of reasonably stocked photographic shops; there is a large one just off the Piazza di Duomo that had a large Leica logo in the window when I was there last. A second was near the (now closed) AMEX office and had Tri-X 135/36 exp on the shelf.<br> No bargains there - the asking price for the M6 in the window of the one near the AMEX office was so great that I was tempted to offer to sell the M6 that I was carrying.</p>

<p>Unless you are in Canada, I'd avoid Kindermann.<br> They return cameras by UPS and UPS charges a US$30 customs brokerage fee to bring a package into the US.<br> My experience with Kindermann wasn't a happy one due to sloppy work on their part.</p>

<p>Hello all-<br> John Maddox has done some really nice work for me in the past and I, again, have some LTM cameras that really need his attention.<br> I would very much appreciate it my fellows here would:<br> 1) Confirm that John is back is business with LTM repairs. I understand that he was seriously ill and is back on the mend now.<br> 2) Does anyone have a current, and working, eMail address at which I can reach John to discuss the work that I'd like him to undertake?<br> 3) Does anyone know if John's old mailing address is the correct one to send him ailing Leicas today?</p> <p>Any help/advice/guidance here is welcome and would be appreciated. If the timing works, I hope to take one of John's repaired Leicas with me to Italy this Fall.</p> <p>Thanks in advance and good light to everyone-</p>

<p>I use two, a Brockway clone Sekonic Studio meter (incident light) and a Weston Master IV. The Sekonic works just fine in the field.</p>

<p>All is well, follow this sequence:<br> When requested to turn your M3 "on" do the following:<br> 1) Politely say "Yes, of course"<br> 2) Turn the rewind lever 90 degrees<br> 3) Hand the M3 to the security operative and instruct him to peer through the view finder. If he/she is really perceptive show him how to rotate the lens focus ring to move the rangefinder spot image.<br> One can really have an enjoyable time in this way should your travel camera is a Rolleiflex. You turn a Rolleiflex "on" by opening the viewfinder hood - but you knew that.</p>

<p>I think that if you can assure a potential buyer that:<br> 1) The shutter fires smoothly at all speeds <br> 2) The viewfinder is clear and the rangefinder patch is bright and clear.<br> 3) The camera is free of dents<br> then I suggest that the expense of a CLA on your part is wasted expense. Personally. I would much prefer to obtain a working camera at an attractive price and once having bought it, arrange a CLA at my own expense and with a camera guru whom I know. </p> <p> </p>

<p>Go off for a week or so, focus your M6 on anything that seems interesting, and see if your difficulty persists.</p> <p>I suspect it will not. There is little photographic that is more reliable than a RF Leica.</p>