gnashings

Canon EF - most of the F1's capability, lower cost - most shutter speeds mechanical (all above 1/2 sec), higher flash synch (125) than most FD bodies. Reliable and a joy to use. I just got one when - guess what - my AE1 started going electronically wiggy.

Remember - light leaks can be sneaky - I had one that only popped up in certain weatehr conditions (very sunny), if I did not have a case bottom on the camera. Even overcast days were OK, as were mornings and evenings - only at mid day on a cloudless day did the light leak come back. A huge waste, as I thought that it was the labs fault after getting a perfect roll after one with these artefacts, and this went on for a while - back and forth, depending on the conditions the camera was exposed to. Ne foam fixed the problem 100%

You can do it yourself with a kit from this guy:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=107925&item=7535051922&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

He has a solid reputation, and you can get others to pitch in, as each kit does several 35mm cameras easily. There is another seller of these type of kits - but having it, this one gets my vote. And no, you don't need to be talented or educated in camera repair to do it - especially with these instructions. It cost not much more than the next roll of velvia you will ruin...

Oh, I see - FILM SPEED - still, my comment stands - how can you break a camera doing that? That too is really no harder than most cameras. You pull and turn... pretty simple. At least you can't move it by accident, especially since its an shutter priority camera, you may be turning that speed dial a lot, without looking at it, if you want to use a particular apperture.

I have no idea how "talented" you have to be to break a camera by changing film... As far as the A1 being the "greatest" Canon... that comment is best quantified by reminding that it came from someone who broke a camera by loading film into it... My AE1 is great, I don't see any difference in ease of operation from the AE1 to most SLR's of that vintage, including this puzzling film issue... I've loaded mine in moving cars, while walking, running, and even up in a tree, in addition to the hundredsof times it was changed in "normal" conditions... I don't know about some people... There is no performance difference between the AE1 and the P - the P is newer and has that little grip that seems to work well, and it is handier for most people than the "original". Also, a lot of people find the shutter speed wheel awkward on the AE1 - the AE1P seems to have "fixed" that. As you can see, shoot a couple of rolls through both, see which one feels better in your hands - service that one. Neither has any "pro" level features, like adjustible exposure comp., changeable screens, mirror lock up or even exceptionally long exposures (you have to do it by hand!) - but they work rather well and seem to be reliable, take lots of cheap but excellent lenses, you can't go wrong with either - strictly a matter of preference if the P mode is not an issue.

TO add to the discussion, aside from all the excellent advise you already got - check out the FTb thread in this very forum - lots of stuff on batteries and how much they can throw you off. For what its worth, I have an AE1, and have found the meter to be genereally quite good, although it is center weighted, so it does take into account various parts of the scene you are looking at and concentrates on exposing the middle part correctly - no substitute for a spot meter, and, I find, sometimes quite confusing unless you learn what the camera is really telling you.

I use a wien cell in a QL17 (rangefinder) and it is still kicking after a couple of months. You can get them at Henrys - or go the drugsotre/gasket way. Apparently my QL17 has voltage compensating built in (photoetnography site claims this) - but I doubt the FTb does. I don't know wether this is to account for the reading being usually very close to my AE1.

I've done slow synch with my AE-1 but usually in situations that require very long exposures - so I would generally fire the shutter and shoot the flash off by hand. Interesting results.

Hmmm... I found the new one to be much more prone ot flar, have worse wide open performance and not be as bright to look through - I've looked through a few of these - but I do admit that my findings are far from scientific.

Its a HORRIBLE lens - I'll take it off your hands so you don't have to be burdened with its loathsome presence :)

 

Jokes aside, wether its the same or not as the new FD "L" - its still an absolutely awesome piece of glass. The differences, I think, are only useful for "bench racing" - I doubt very much you will see any image quality difference in reality. And all my research confirms the sentiment that its optically identical.

The only lens that I know for a fact was changed and noticeably for the worse, is the 50mm f1.4 SSC. The NewFD version is much different and noticeable inferior in most aspects - oddly enough, apparently even in flare!

Darn it - the one with the flash and 1.8 lens in AZ... YOU!!!

 

Just jokes - I'm sure I will snipe one to my liking!

 

I have done extensive research into this camera, and can confirm everything said here - except the light meter sensitivity. While really excellent, I don't believe it goes down to -2 EV. All the sources I have put it at 1. Then again, I may be wrong, which will make me want it even more! Many call it the F1 in disguise (I know, its notthe same - but a real value none the less!).

Another thing I have heard about this camera is that it may be the most reliable FD body ever built - again, just repeating what users have told me. And the flash synch blows everything in FD out of the water except the almost-an-EOS T90, which is much, much newer and more dear$$$.

I would really like to make a New F1 my main FD body - but funds do not permit a nice one right now, and good sense does not permit an iffy one (will cost more in the end). After much research, with the eventual purchase of a New F1 in mind, I decided to go with an EF as a "for now" and a great back up later. I find it strange that the New F1 does not have MLU (Canon swore it did not need it... but I still think its conspicous through its absence...).

Good luck with your EF's and hopefully I will have some first hand accounts to contribute soon!