nigel_keene

Sorry let me try that again.......<div></div>

Just thought I would share this shot with you as I was quite pleased with it......taken this weekend at a football (soccer) match.

Part 3<div></div>

Part 2<div></div>

Haven't posted for a while....Football for me this weekend (soccer to some of you!)<div></div>

On Canon camera's the mistake people often make is forgetting to move the camera setting from one shot to Al-servo, perhaps Nikon has a similar setting?

 

Other than that as has been said previously a faster speed setting is required which often means a higher ISO!

Thanks for your comments and advice so far. I have tried reducing the CS2 sharpening and noise reduction to 0 and then have added shapening and nr after converting to jpg and this has definately helped .......might have to give Capture One a go tho!

So am I better taking off any default sharpening and noise reduction that CS2 has and then adding my own afterwards?

I have just shot using RAW as I knew light was a problem at the venue I was at

and I thought RAW may give me more options. I found though that shooting at

1600 the images were far noisier that I have usually got from jpgs at the same

speed. Is there something in the PP that I should be doing? .......I would

normally add something like noise ninja anyway....but an explanation as to the

increased noise would really be helpful

The paper are paying on a per pic basis and are really only interested in certain local to them swimmers so my time there is really my own so I don't expect a conflict.

 

What I mean by Photoshop being to slow is that I am assuming there will be a fairly high number of pics that need to be cropped to print sizes with some basic work such as sharpening and level alteration and I kind of assumed that there would be some specialist software for this type of event photography?

Kind of following on from the " Do you need permission" thread. I have been

asked by a local club to cover a weekend swimming event where they would like

a photographer to produce pictures that can be printed straight away and sold

to parents. I will be covering the event for a local paper (being paid) so was

thinking of donating my time provided they covered hire of equipment etc.

 

So my question is what printer should I hire (I think Kodak do a quite good

event one) and what image software package would you advise as I suspect that

photoshop would be way to slow.

 

Any other advice offered would be gratefully received!

 

 

Nigel

A little xmas week soccer action

Wonder if anyone can help. I have just bought one of these lenses and am

puzzled as to which hole on the foot of the lens coller to attach a monopod to

(there is a choice of two!) Also I have a fairly lightweight carbon fibre

Manfrotto monopod and I am wondering whether this is going to be sturdy

enough......Any advice would be gratefully received.

 

 

Thanks

Soccer team qualifying for the FA Cup.....a uk institution!

Couldn't work out how two load multiple images - sorry!<div></div>

If its any help I have taken grab shots with both the 200 1.8 and the 135 2.0. My daughter was taken with the 200 and one on my neighbours with the 135, both were fantastic. The 200 had staggering bokeh, but is expensive and difficult to get hold of, in reality depending of course on your use, I think the 135 is outstanding and a great portrait lens in addition to its other potential uses.<div></div>

I have one 580 and one 550 Ex flashes and I was wondering whether this was

enough to light a room of say 10m x 5m. If so and assuming the room was kind

of rectangular where would you place the flashes to get all round room

lighting and would using a master flash on camera be a good idea or should

both be off camera and a remote triggering device used?

 

 

Thanks

A little bit of advice if possible. I am covering a lecture next week and

although I am set for that, I have been asked to also get some shots of the

great and good at a reception afterwards. I think they want something similar

to the pages of Hello Magazine ie this is Lady so and so wither her husband

etc!

 

I was intending on using my 24-70 2.8 lens with 580 EX flash, but what sort of

settings should I be playing with to ensure all parties are sharp, but given

that I will be shooting at a fairly poorly lit area and will only get one shot

I wouldnt wonder.

 

 

Regards

 

 

 

Nigel

Just wondered people opinions on the value of IS on the big telephoto lenses.

There seems to be a few second hand options around for both of these lenses,

but mostly the non IS versions. I can see that non IS on say the 400 could be

a big deal, but is it so important on a 600 that one assumes would mostly be

used supported?

Thanks for your comments guys, I guess I was fishing to see if there were many people who owned both pieces of glass or whether you assesed your primary needs and went for the appropriate one. It seems to be the latter perhaps.

Can I just ask, how many of you sports togs out there own both a 300mm 2.8 IS

and a 400mm 2.8 IS or is it an either or situation?

That I guess was really what I was trying to get to the bottom of. I felt that the Mark 1 version would certainly be too slow, but was hoiping that the Mark 2 version would at least be similar to the 70-200, but offer a little more scope for low light, close up action shooting. I did check out the Castleman website and he used gymnastics to demonstrate his points, but again he was shooting at F/2 so I guess it just comes down to whether 135mm is a problem.

Having done a Google search there are a number of comments and reviews about

these two lenses individually, but not too much by way of comparison of the

two of them. Before anyone says you can't make such a comparison, what I am

looking for is a low light lens ( better than the 2.8's I currently have ) to

cover really badly lit events such as some stage plays and more importantly

gymnastic events.

 

It seems the bonuses are with the 85 1.2, you have the benefit of an industry

standard portrait lens as well as a reasonably close action sport capable

lens. However I suppose portrait is not top of my priority list and one of my

other lens may well do. Its also more money.

 

From what I have read the 135mm has a very fast auto focus, which I can see is

a benefit. But will it real terms offer me much over the 2.8's in terms of

faster shooting speeds and is it for nstance as fast a focus as my 70-200 2.8?

 

Well there a few questions posed there. Any input would be gratefully received.

 

I would be using either lens on a 1D Mark 2.

Hi all

 

I shot a regional gymnastics meeting over the weekend, and whilst I ended up

with enough shots for my purpose, I was really struggling with the light (no

windows and more of an old air hanger as opposed to a gym) and having to drop

to 1/320 meant I missed a couple of really cracking mid air shots that hit the

nearly, but not quite, pile.

 

I was using a 70-200 2.8IS and a 3002.8IS which I have normally found my best

sports combo but has anyone tried any faster lenses in this sort of arena that

might be worth considering as I am likely to be doing more of this type of

stuff.<div></div>

I think 200 at this time of year is sufficient, 400 if you are at all nervous about the sppeds you can get. 70-200 maybe enough, if you can get to a bend where the spectators are close to the track. The best source of information are normally the motorsport websites. TV priority at 1/500 will catch the action and leave a little movement in the tyres. While I'm no expert at panning ...my achilles heel I would say, something like 1/125 gives you a reasonable result, if like me you want to fudge it....remember to turn the stabiliser off if your lens has it. And try and get some good crowd/grid shots as without a press pass it's tough getting acceptable racing images I would say.<div></div>