mmene
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Posts posted by mmene
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Thank you very much my friends. Your help was very useful.
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Specifications 0-40 C.
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Shall I carry my D300 to the seaside with 40 celsius and more or not? What can I do ?
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Dear Josh, thank you very much for your very imediate and kind help.
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By anyway I can not change anything in the biography window. I just tried now to ad a word to my bio and I always get the same mesage.
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URL of image in question: http://www.photo.net/photo/8666906
Old ID: 8666906
Desired New ID: 11243910
I mean to change it in the biography editing area..........
Born in Athens,Greece in 1949.Studied Electrical and Mechanical Eng.at the National Technical University of Athens.Amateur photographer since 1967.Also,involved in amateur film making.I hope to learn all the secrets of these arts in my next life-:
But what is photography?An art or just a frame of reality?Reality or a reproduction of the photographer's point of view?Is it fake or just an illusion?How many grey tones for the optimum capture?How many colours? B&W or coloured? Analogue or digital?And so on...Who cares!You just enjoy it or you don't.You like it or you don't.They like it or they don't.Some like it,some don't.Who likes it and who doesn't?Why like it and why not?The answer is simple or is it not...?Why not?
<li> <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=613335">My Latest Submissions</a>
<li> <a> Some of my favorites</a></center>
<table width="100%" border="2" bordercolor="#000000" bgcolor="#999999">
<tr>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/6035433"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/6035433-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/8666906"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8666906-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/8582120"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8582120-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/8670294"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8670294-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/9039713"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9039713-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/9677231"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9677231-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/8568872"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8568872-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
<td><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/6929813"><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/6929813-sm.jpg" border="0"></a></td>
</tr>
</table>
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The photos id nr. in the area Some of my favorites.
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What is the most basic HTML ?
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I was updating my personal info with no problems till now. When i try to make some minor changes to the photos id i get an answer
"" We had a problem processing your entry:
* Your biography contains HTML that we absolutely do not allow. Please go back and reenter it, using only the
most basic HTML. ""
Please help.
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<p>The camera exposure profiling in the manual is a bit confusing me. What shall I do step by step ?</p>
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<p>I purchased a new Sekonic 758 cine. I would like to know how well this meter works with D300. Any advice ?</p>
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<p>VR will be very helpfull, in the other hand the price is very high. I will prefer my old version.</p>
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<p>I wonder if there is a way to measure ansi contrast of an image. That means the ratio of <a href="http://www.google.gr/search?hl=el&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:el:official&hs=Opq&ei=gVwKS9LCFYyusAbK54zOAQ&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&ved=0CBcQBSgA&q=luminosity&spell=1" ><strong></strong> </a> luminocity between the brightest and darkest area,without using a lightmeter.</p>
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<p>Thanks to Antonio and all of you for your help.</p>
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<p>I am shooting raw and underexpose 1-1,3 stops.</p>
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<p>I know the difficulties, but I still have problem when I try to shoot red flower with D300. Though I shoot 1-1,3 stops under red color is still burned. Any help ?</p>
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<p>Too many very good and almost excellent photographers use old models like D70, D70s and D100 shooting little masterpieces. So get a low budget camera/lens and many books about photography and digital photos. Then go on shooting as most as possible.<br /> <br /> THE EYE BEHIND THE CAMERA IS THE SOLUTION, NOT THE CAM IT SELF.</p>
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<p>Sorry my friends, but I cannot understand your comments, when you haven't share not even a photo to our club.</p>
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<p>I own both of them, tack sharp lenses.</p>
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<p>Dear Matt,<br>
I already mentioned that I own 17-55/2.8 and you must know that I own 70-200/1.8 also. So I know what do you mean saying "If you handle both lenses...". But I want just a light and very good lens.<br>
You are right about bokeh but with the use of PS that's a minor problem.</p>
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<p>Dear friends, as far as I can trust photozone .<br /> <!-- [if !supportLists]-->1) <!-- [endif]-->“ The lens shows barrel <strong>distortions</strong> at around 1.7%, certainly more than one would expect from a prime lens in this focal range”, same comment and test for both lenses.</p>
<h4>Vignetting</h4>
<p><!-- [if !supportLists]-->2) <!-- [endif]-->Dedicated DX lenses usually suffer from higher vignetting (compared to FX glass on the same camera) and one would especially expect this behaviour from a fast lens. However, the AF-S DX 35 wide open only shows moderate vignetting which is reduced to a not field relevant level by f/4 and beyond.<br /> <!-- [if !supportLists]-->3) <!-- [endif]-->The Sigma shows a fairly unusual vignetting characteristic (which also showed up in the test of the Canon variant of the lens) - normally the vignetting curve is logarithmic (steep drop in the beginning followed by moderate fading) whereas the curve of the Sigma shows a quite linear behavior. This isn't really favorable because it takes a couple of f-stops till the vignetting reaches really low values. At wide-open aperture the issue is quite pronounced (1EV) and even at f/2.8 it is not much better. The vignetting is no longer field-relevant from about f/5.6. Vignetting is not disturbing in all situations but other lenses perform better here.</p>
<h4>MTF (resolution)</h4>
<p><!-- [if !supportLists]-->4) <!-- [endif]-->Sigma is a little bit better in the centre but worst in the borders.</p>
<p> </p>
<h4>Chromatic Aberrations (CAs)</h4>
<p><!-- [if !supportLists]-->5) <!-- [endif]--><strong>Sigma </strong> . The degree of lateral chromatic aberrations (color shadows at harsh contrast transitions) is acceptable for a 30mm lens but nothing to rave about either. CAs with an average width around ~1.2px at the image borders can be visible at times.<br /> <!-- [if !supportLists]-->6) <!-- [endif]--><strong> Nikon. </strong> Chromatic aberrations (color shadows at harsh contrast transitions) are moderate wide open, but rather high for the rest of the aperture range. This is a somewhat disappointing behaviour, however lateral CAs (unlike LoCAs, see below) can easily corrected in post processing and most newer Nikon DSLRs already do this on their own (as well as most of the current RAW converters).<br /> <strong>If you compare the measurements Nikon is better at f1.8 and almost the same at f/2. </strong> 8-4. Finally Sigma is a bit better at f/5.6-8.</p>
<p><strong>So I prefer Nikon by any way.</strong></p>
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D300 into the seaside with 40+ celsius
in Nikon
Posted