hoyin_lee1
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Posts posted by hoyin_lee1
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Peter Parker's camera in the Spiderman movie (a brassy Canon New F-1
with AE Finder FN):
<p>
</p><img
src="http://www.netbeet.ne.jp/~kakusan/Canon/Parts/F1front.jpg">
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Peter Parker's camera in the Spiderman movie (a brassy Canon New F-1):
<p>
</p><img src="www.mediakyoto.com/.../cla_came_e/ grp/canon_nf_1.gif">
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I don't find the finder useful either. Besides the problem you
mentioned about not able to see the entire frame with glasses, its
shape and size prevent the use of a flash next to it on a double-shoe-
-that's a disappointment as I use fill-flash a lot in my
photography.
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Just want to share some of my own travel experience in China:
<p>
</p>(1) Travel as light as possible, especially when you're exploring
on your own; keep everything together in one bag.
<p>
</p>(2) Bring wideangle lenses; an ultra-wide of 21mm or wider is
extremely useful.
<p>
</p>(3) Print films are readily available but good slide films, such
as Velvia, Provia, Ektachrome, etc., are not (they are available, but
you have to know where to find them), except in the
more "international" cities like Hong Kong, Macau, Shanghai and
Beijing.
<p>
</p>(4) Film format; I haven't tried carrying more than two systems
but I would like to try bringing a 6x6 TLR in addition to a 35mm SLR
or rangefinder. I do have friends who bring their Hasselblads on
trips to the mountains to photograph the landscape; one carries a
Hassy SWC with his Nikons or Leicas on most trips, although he moans
about the weight at times! Given that you're won't be travelling to
China again soon, I would suggest that you bring the two camera
systems you mentioned, as they don't seem too unmanageable and you
can carry all of them in one bag.
<p>
</p>(5) Politically, China has loosen up a lot, espeically now that
it's entered the WTO. There're no minders or secret police watching
over you and you can photograph almost everything, except military
installations in certain sensitive areas (that applies to many other
countries, not just China). On certain official tours, I do have
official "hosts" following me everywhere (most were just regular
university students but on one occassion I had the deputy director of
the local party school tagging along!), but they were just being
hospitable in the Mainland-Chinese way, and were in no way keeping an
eye on me!
<p>
</p>Have a good trip!
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Ditto to Ralph!
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Dealers here in Hong Kong are bringing in the M7 in small batches,
and, according to the ones I've spoken with, they're sold out within
days. Current Hong Kong price: HK$ 16,500 (about US$ 2150), but it's
expected to drop when the camera is avaliable in bigger quantities.
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Thank you, gentlemen!
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Specifically, can the Elmarit-M 21mm f/2.8 ASPH and 24mm f/2.8 ASPH be mounted on the M5? Or will the back end of these lenses hit the camera's metering arm?
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The P-word: now I know what my Londoner colleague is saying all the
time!
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Step-by-step illustrated instructions on how to load a screw-mount
Leica: <a
href="http://www.mediakyoto.com/camerashopper/lrc_e/b_e/b01_e.html">ht
tp://www.mediakyoto.com/camerashopper/lrc_e/b_e/b01_e.html</a>. Hope
this helps.
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I had an EM a long time ago (a gift from dad; he meant well, bless
his heart!) and didn't like it for two reasons: (1) it's like a point-
and-shoot with aperture-priority automation--you have no control of
the shutter speed (the only choices of shutter speed are B and 1/90
second); (2) mirror slap is too heavy, especially for a small light
camera, which means the chances of camera-shake is greater.
<p>
</p>If you're looking for a small light Nikon SLR, you can do worse
than to buy a F80 or F65 (N80 or N65 in the US). Or you could check
out a FG, which is like an advanced version of the EM (they're of
similar shape and size), but offers auto-exposure modes as well as
manual--but check to see if you find the mirror-slap too great for
your liking.
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Another vote for Photo 2; tough choice between Photos 3 & 4, but my
personal preference is 3.
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Won't it be nice if . . .
<p>
</p>Me: "Geez, honey, I already have so many cameras; I guess I
shouldn't get that Leica M7-P."
<p>
</p>She: "Don't be silly, if you want it, I'll get it for you, now."
<p>
</p>Hey, dreaming's no crime!
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Chris, here's one to add to your list: the county of Kaiping in
Guangdong province, China. It's a potential UNESCO World Heritage
Site (in fact, the county government is applying to have the place
listed as one) with some 1,800 <a
href="http://www.kaiping.gov.cn/dl/default.htm">"watchtower-
houses"</a> (eclectic Chinese-Western style fortified tower dwellings
built by wealthy overseas-Chinese in the 1920s and 1930s), located
everywhere outside the county capital (Kaipingshi). The townships of
Chikan, Tangkou and Xianggang are a must-see. Went to these places
last month armed with a Minolta CLE with an Elmarit-M 21mm/2.8 ASPH,
a M-Hexanon 28mm/2.8 and an Elmar 90mm/4. Turned out that the 28mm
and 21mm (in that order) were the most useful, and the 90mm hardly
used. In hindsight, a 24mm or 25mm would have been much better (oh
why did I leave my Voigtlander 25mmf/4 home??)
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Jonathan, here's the repairer you're looking for:
</p>Mr. Lee Cho Tat
<br>Panda Camera-Repair Service
<br>Penthouse, Double Building
<br>22 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong
<br>Tel: 2522 9905, 2522 9908
<br>(the building's entrance is to the left of Luk Yu Teahouse [as
you face it]; take lift to top floor and walk up two flights of
stairs)
</p>You'll find Mr. Lee the nicest and the most honest camera
repairer you can find anywhere in the world; in case you're
wondering, we're not related.
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Holy Summicron, Ralph, those are great shots! Mike, your portraits
are always a delight! Alfie, how about giving us more focused shots
of your two Leicas, or perhaps shoot one with the other instead of
using your "cheap Kodak digital camera"?
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Soroka, I'm sorry for your friend's loss; if he has filed a police
report detailing the stolen equipment and serial numbers, there may
be a chance of recovering the items if they turn up in an auction.
<p>
</p>Speaking of lost prototype cameras, I read somewhere about the
story of the prototype Contax SLR. It goes something like this: in
1936, Zeiss Ikon formed a team to develop a 35mm SLR camera, and in
1940, a prototype was built in great secrecy based on the Contax II
rangefinder body, but with a bulit-in eye-level prism that gave a
upright and left-right reversed image in the viewfinder. The
developement was halted during the war as Zeiss had other production
priorities. The prototype was subsequently lost in the chaos as
Dresden was invaded by the Red Army. Soon after the war, as the
story goes, a Russian officer turned up at the Zeiss factory in what
had became the East-German city of Dresden with a request to repair a
peculiar camera that featured the Zeiss Ikon logo and a fixed
viewfinder prism. The service technician refused the repair thinking
that it was a privately converted camera. Later, when the factory
people heard about it, they realized that they missed the opportunity
of recovering their lost prototype Contax SLR. It wasn't until 1948
when Carl Zeiss Jena produced the Contax S, the world's first SLR
with a built-in viewfinder prism.
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I have a copy too--a gift from a generous friend. My first
impression of the book was, "My God, this looks dauntingly
technical!" But it turned out to be a very enjoyable read and a
highly useful reference book.
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Besides Color Six, here's another choice: John Leung Studio on Heard
St. (UG floor, Kwong Sang Hong Building). Fotomax, although not a
pro-lab, is also pretty good.
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Ben, according to Stephen Gandy, the Noctilux 50mm f/1 can't be used
on the CLE. See here for details on the CLE's lens-compatibility: <a
href="http://www.cameraquest.com/cle.htm">http://www.cameraquest.com/c
le.htm</a>.
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One time my Nikon F4s misbehaved and started to expose himself (I
believe it's a he) whenever a woman came into the viewfinder. Had to
confine him to a locked drawer ever since. A very sad end to a fine
camera.
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For colour slide, I use Provia 400F whenever I can. Before the 400F
was available, I used Provia 100F exposed at ISO 320 and push-process
two stops with great results. I suppose Provia 400F can be
satisfactorily pushed to ISO 800, although I have not tried that
myself. For colour film, I have used Supra 800 and PJ 800. PJ 800
seems to be slightly better than Supra 800 in terms of grain and
exposure latitude. I find Supra 800 has a tendency to become very
grainy even when slightly underexposed, but nice and smooth in bright
daylight or with adequate flash lighting. For b/w, I stay with TMAX
400 and T400CN, and have not used anything faster.
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Kristian, I had the same reservation about guess-focusing when I got
the Snapshot-Skopar 25mm f/4. It turned out to be a non-issue, and I
haven't got a *single picture* that's out of focus from this lens--
that's how easy guess-focusing is with a wide-angle lens, once you're
used to it.
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I have no idea what this "Cosmos" finish is made of. If you have a
Leica custom leather fetish, you'll go crazy <a
Not a Question, but a Statement
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted