jv1

Get the blad kit and an additional 105/2.5 Nikkor which you can get for less than $100.

I never commented in advance but...

 

"2. Megapixels" - you do realise that "everyone else's 10 Mpixel" cameras are the lowest amateur models (D80, 400D, Sony Alpha), right? And that the pro models are between 12 and 16.7? I don't think megapixels matter all that much, but that doesn't mean you should talk nonsense like that.

 

and "3. Sensor and crop factor" - can't blame anyone for thinking that as even the Leica officials at Perpignan just two weeks back, when they were showing the M8, said it was the same sensor as the DMR...

homeless kids in romania<div></div>

Thank you very much, Michael. In fact, my thinking behind not taking faster film was similar to what you said; in addition to adding more bulk to my kit I was confident that 1600 ISO should suffice for everything because I thought I'd always be able to portray a silhouette, find a small ray of light, ... And it worked, for 95% of the pictures I shot. Technically, I'm very happy with the results of Tri-X at 1600 (see attached picture). I've shot almost everything between 400 and 1600.

 

The two rolls at an EI of 12800 were really nothing more than an experiment; the kids had withdrewn into a completely dark part of the sewers and I figured I might give it a go, not exspecting a result at all. It wasn't untill I came home and saw other pictures online of Tri-X at 12800 that I started thinking it would be worthwhile developing these two rolls. So really, they are not too important but as you say, this and pretty much everything I did in Romania is part of a learning curve that will hopefully pay off in the long run.

 

Thanks for taking your time to answer my question. And I think I can find Acufine in the local store, so that's great news too, I'll give that a shot.<div></div>

Well, my apologies, I may have overreacted a bit. It is indeed a good thing to bring up the difference between EI and ISO. But after three posts bringing up the same point and adding nothing else to the thread I guess I kinda hit my frustration point - sorry guys, it's been a long day, I'm tired, and I hate sitting in front of the computer all day (which is what I've been doing, scanning and editing). So thanks, Allan, Bruce, Michael and Kelly.

 

Anyway, I'll do some more experimenting. I might have to try and find Rodinal or FG7 but I have little time and neither is available locally.

 

Michael, I don't understand your last point. I was stuck with Tri-X in an unexspected situation where I could not use flash, I was using my fastest lens wide open and shooting at 1/15th, so what other options did I have but to underexpose as much as necessary? I am not being sarcastic. I only got into photography seriously a couple of months ago, I'm just a student (and not even a photography student). I read your bio and I'm impressed. I just don't understand..?

 

Greetings

Huh?

 

I come back from living with homeless kids in Romania, documenting their lives living in sewers, under bridges, at the railway station... I've photographed things I really wish I hadn't seen... kids doing glue, kids without legs, ten-year-old girls that get group-raped in the sewers each day, kids half-dead on the streets...

 

 

and all I get here is dissing because I used "ISO" instead of "EI"?

 

ISO, EI, I really couldn't care less, I need to know how to develop these films cause I have a couple of NGO's and magazines waiting.

 

No... I'm not going flash a speedlight in the face of kids high on glue, pretty pissed off already, a foot taller than me and armed with knives, in the middle of the night on my own in a sewer... thanks for the suggestion though.

 

I won't buy faster film, I can't carry more than one variety of film with me when travelling for weeks without any chance to restock, tri-x it is and always will be. I'm not going to start messing with more than one film, it's complicated enough already. More film = more luggage. I can never predict what the circumstances will be untill I get there and then it's too late to buy new film.

 

And for the nay-sayers, saying "it can't be done", it has been done so many times, I've seen Tri-X at 12800 pics that were stunning, here is just one example: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4386&d=1110228115

 

I can do without shadow detail, all I need to know is what's causing this uneven development... As I said above, there is even more shadow detail in the testroll than I was exspecting, so that's no problem. But the uneven development and the 'blotches' of film that are more developed than other pieces, that IS a problem.

And attached is the second image...

 

Thanks again.

I've seen some nice results of Tri-X developed at 12800 ISO before (some in

Tmax developer, some in Microphen, some even in Rodinal), and I was recently

forced to shoot two rolls at 12800 myself. Now, I'd like to get somewhat

decent results and after developing a first testroll it seems I'm not getting

there.

 

Let's see:

 

Developed a testroll at 12800 ISO. Microphen (fresh) stock, 20ﾰC (68ﾰ F), 60

mins, 60s agitation at the start and afterwards 10s every three minutes.

Results are... Pretty horrible. Grain and exposure/shadow details are fine,

better than I had exspected, but the negative is developed unevenly (bottom

1/5th is developed more, best visible in picture #2) and "speckled" (best

visible in the empty areas of the pictures - development is not even).

 

Any ideas? Agitate less, agitate more? Use 600ml instead of 300ml even if it's

just one roll (I'm using a 2-roll plastic Paterson tank)? Agitate only

extremely gently (using the agitator instead of doing inversions), or on the

contrary, agitate more heavily? Use another time/temp? Use DD-X or T-Max

developer?

 

Some advice would be appreciated, thanks a lot in advance.

Jonas

$80? $90? Huh?

 

I got mine for free, and saw many for $20-$40 in good condition...

12mm = 18mm equivalent

 

Cokin P is certainly OK till 20mm fov, if you really want to use it at the very widest (12mm - meaning an 18mm fov), you could cut off the third filter holder. It can only hold two then, but you'd be fine all the way zoomed out. Otherwise just use it from 13-14mm and you'll be fine at any rate.

Grainy results have nothing to do with the lens.

 

Rodinal is a pretty gritty developer, and many people consider HP5+ and Rodinal a bad combination at any rate. Too much agitation, reticulation because of temperature changes, or scanner-induced 'grain' could be other factors. If you'd post this in the B&W film forum, with a sample shot and crop, I think you'll get more usefull answers. Cheers

what does it matter?

 

if he asked not to shoot with it before paying, that should tell you enough: walk away.

I forgot to mention two things... all Nikons 180mm lenses are superb performers, and secondly, since it's about sports I assumed you were talking about the AF(D) version, the manual focus version will be cheaper but a lot harder to use especially for action-type shots.

for most types of portrait a 180mm (270mm fov on digital) will be too long, although some people do like the flat, compressed and boring images it gives. Oops.

 

For sports, I think most people use a 70/80-200, and primes only for the really long lenses (300mm and up).

 

That said, nobody is forcing you to be "most people". A 180mm is certainly not standard for portraits/sports (I would get a 70-200 if I wanted to do both and couldn't afford the longer fast primes, or just an 85 or 105 for portraits) but if you have specific reasons for wanting to use that lens, it's an option...

I paid ﾀ 175 for mine, which is as good as new.. but I'm always lucky to find good deals. I agree that $300 or up is more common.

a step-up ring and two slim 72mm filters, perhaps?

If you don't mind carrying an extra body, Voigtlander all the way.

 

By the way, I believe you can get the Voigtlander in Nikon mount as well, you just need a camera with mirror lock-up and an external viewfinder (I wouldn't bother and just get an L and the CV 15).

An F6 + digital back would cost more than an F6 + D2x.

 

Sounds pretty stupid to me.

Looks like normal flare to me. (otherwise it's a pretty big dust particle ;))

 

Try using a lenshood and no filter when shooting at night, that should solve most flare problems, unless in extreme situations.

Luc Tuymans, famous Belgian painter, during an interview...<div></div>

fuji reala, cokin filters<div></div>

Switch to Canon and go whine on their forum.

 

Alternatively log off the computer and take some photographs.

What is the difference between the R2 and R2m?

By all means, try it. If you're happy with it, great, you can sell it all and buy a cellphone to take pictures with, probably about the same quality then. but if it suits you... :)

"The D200 makes manual focusing much easier"

 

compared to what else than the D70?