sal_lad

There is a pdf here: http://www.tiffen.com/tiffen_product_literature.html (scroll down until you see the .pdf link) that shows the inside of an F-9 or F-10. Both bags are styled the same the difference is size. I'm just curious about the taper at the base of the bag. There's no illustration on the layout of the F-8.

Hi,

Does any one have either one of these bags and can you answer a few questions for me? On the F-8 how is the main

compartment laid out? Tiffen says there is one adjustable insert and that it can be used to divide up the space

into three compartments. Does this mean that there's a divider sewn in as in the F-3x? Is this why the main

compartment dimensions are given as 6.5" x 3.75"? I wish Tiffen would do a better job at illustrating their

products.

Next, looking at the picture of the F-10 the overall dimension is 11.5" but I notice the bag tapers at the

bottom. Again, is this just Tiffin's illustration or does the bag actually have a taper? Unfortunately, there

aren't any photo stores in my area that carry Domke so whatever help you guys can give me would be much appreciated.

Thanks, Sal

Hi Michael,

 

Another thing you can check is your Canon EOS 1n. I have the same camera and I remember having set the exposure compensation (sometimes intentionally, sometimes not) and having shot a whole roll at + or - 1, 2, or 3 stops. The camera does not reset the compensation to 0 after you take the shot, it will remain at where ever you set it.

 

Sal

I agree. To provide a large sensor and only to limit it to a fixed lens is unreal.

The closest thing to a large sensor digital RF (apart from the M8)and it's not really an RF is Sigma's DP-1. Unfortunately it doesn't have inter-changeable lenses.

Hi,

On Epson's site they give the usable life span of K3 ink as 2 years from printed

production date or 6 months after opened. Has any one had ink in their printers

beyond the 6 month period and have you seen any difference in print quality?

Thanks

That's a beautiful car, Jim.

Unless your subjects are moving around (and babies like to do this)A fixed focal length lens is your best choice. On a cropped sensor the 50 is good. On a full frame sensor the 85 or 100 has it.

The general rule is that film speeds up to 400 are safe from x-ray at the carry-on stage. Anything higher should be hand checked. All my film is hand checked no matter what the speed is. The film used after his return could have been an unused roll from that trip and was subjected to x-ray.

Xrays can be the cause of thin or streaky negs particularly if the film speed is 400 and higher. Check out this site: http://www.thetravelinsider.info/2002/0104.htm

 

BWT, make sure you back up that CF card in your DSLR. Yes, I've heard and experienced unfortunate incidences with film but by far I hear more more horror stories from people who fail to back up their cards.

Have you used the camera after returning home? If so were the pictures ok? Perhapes your film was subjected to too much x-rays at the airports.

Can any one tell me if the exposure meter on the R4s Mod P should stay on for 10

seconds or so when the shutter button is depressed slightly or do you need to

keep your finger on the shutter button continuously to keep the meter activated?

Also does this model have an exposure lock?

I haven't used Neopan 1600 yet but was curious as to the quality difference, if

any, between pushing Neopan 400 to 1600 or using Neopan 1600 straight.

Thanks, I appreciate your help and opinions. Robert, Neil Snape's review was very informative.

Has anyone tried out the HP Photosmart Pro B9180 printer yet?? I curious about

it's B&W output.

M6, 35mm f:2 asph, HP4 if I had one choice...though I would miss my 90mm f:2.8 :(

I'll try the Sakura pigma pen on my silver prints. Thanks for the tip Brad.

My silver/gel prints were signed and numbered in pencil on the back. I preferred glossy paper and I could never find anything suitable and permanent for that surface to write with. I also signed and numbered the mat. I never dry mounted my prints.

With the descent selection of mat art papers signing the surface of the print is far more convenient.

Does any one know of any web sites that have information on perparing digital

photographs for exhibition? I'm curious about notation: signature, date,

edition. With the use of artist papers is it appropriate to write with pencil on

the face of the print as you would on a lithograph or etching? I've seen various

methods used but is there a standard for digital photos?

What is the comparison between Piezography Neutral K7 inks used in an Epson

R1800 or 2200 to the B&W output from a 2400 using Epson ink? Is there really

that much difference between three shades of gray in the 2400 to seven in

Piezography Neutral K7?

Thanks for the offer but I wouldn't be interested at this time. I'm just gathering information to see if this is worth while. Cutting the paper isn't a problem. I'm more concerned with curling.

To lessen the cost of paper, has anyone used any of Epson's fine art

papers on rolls and cut them to size? Is curling a problem? I'm

particularly interested in Epson's UltraSmooth FA Paper.

My resolution, with the grace and approval from up above (actually, my wife)I've been granted a postage stamp size spot in the basement and I'M BUILDING A DARKROOM BABY!! You see, perseverance does work. No more bathroom darkroom for me. I (and my Leicas) are so psyched!

The LED read out in my M6 .85 is a bit hard to see (I wear glasses). Does any one know if it's

possible to raise them a bit? Has any one had this done?? I also have a .72 but have no

problem with the LED position. In fact, with the .72 the LED falls within my peripheral vision. I

can pretty much well focus and meter at the say time. No so with the .85.

Unless you have sentimental value with this particular M TTL, It might well be easier to sell

your .85 and buy a .72.