rddelliott

Take a look at Adobe's Lightroom. Beta is free to try. Great ways to convert to B/W

Renaldo:

 

No need to shout. This is a learning forum for all. I have both a 400D and a 5D. If I take a picture with both cameras with a 400mm lens attached, is the image any larger with the 400D or is it just cropped due to the smaller sensor? Have I increased the size of the image or just changed the field of view?

Agree. The pixel density is greater. Just wanted to make certain that he understood he is not getting a 640mm focal length with the 1.6X camera.

Correct me if I am wrong here, but a 400mm lens is a 400mm lens no matter what body you put it on. Only the field of view changes. So you are simply croping the center of the lens with the 1.6X camera as the sensor is smaller than a full frame sensor which makes the image look bigger. Buying the 1.6X camera only changes the field of view, not the focal length.

The question is do all printer drivers interpolate your image up to 300ppi? The responses seem to indicate that the Epson printers do, but in my case I am using a HP 8750 and a HP B9180.

I usually don't upres at all unless I drop below 180ppi at 13X19. I have printed at 300ppi and 180ppi the same photo and cannot tell the difference without an eye loupe.

There is a great video tutorial by Ben Wilmore called Mastering Camera Raw. It will take you through everything you ever wanted to know about Camera RAW in 21/2 hours

As a side note, for those of us who use and want to no more about color management, you can not find a better book than Andrew Rodney's book Color Management For Photographers.

I have the same setup, 5D plus TS-E and have added a Acratech Leveling Base which really gets you level.

You might want to look at this tutorial from the Radiant Vista http://www.radiantvista.com/archive/video_tutorials/11/

Mark:

 

My prints turn out consistently dark unless I soft proof and make all my adjustments from the image that is soft proofed.

Are you soft proofing. Prints being too dark I have found is a function of not soft proofing. You make your adjustments on the screen after applying the soft proof. I am using the same system you are and my prints compaired to the screen are dead on to my display.

No banding issues on my 8750 and HP support is great.

If you like Epson's Premium Luster, you will love InkJetArt's MicroCeramic Luster at about half the cost of the Epson paper. http://www.inkjetart.com/

Thank you all for your responses.

I just purchased a 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS USM lens and did some inital testing. I

set the lens on a tripod with a remote release and shot a series of pictures at

70mm, 100mm, 200mm and 300mm at f/8. The lens seems very sharp except for

300mm at 100% crops. Has it been your experience that this lens is not as

sharp at 300mm? I also tested in the portrait mode and found no difference

from the landscape, so I must have a good copy.

 

Your responses are appreciated.

Julieanne Kost's CD"s from Software Cinema are great. They are broken up into Fundamental and Advanced. I have both and would highly recommend.

 

Bob Elliott

Thanks for the response. That is just what I was looking for.

 

Bob Elliott

Slade:

 

I have the Swiss paper. Starting point is 12mp digital camera and good glass.

 

Bob Elliott

Slade:

 

Thanks for the reply and sorry if I was misleading. I will be using HP Premium Plus Satin Paper and HP Inks on the 8750 and I do not find a Photoshop CS2 workflow in my manual.

Can anyone direct me to a site where the steps are discussed to

produce a fine art black and white print on the HP 8750 using HP inks

and papers?

I am also partially disabled and I find that good L glass zooms work best for me. I am unable to zoom with my feet so I found the L primes did not work for me. The primes are generally sharper, but with my 5D and 1DSII the zooms work great.