andrew booth

Take it back.

I don't understand why you'd buy the Canon if you'd done the research and found that the

Epson was the right thing. You can get a scanner delivered next day from any of the online

retailers.

PC world / Dixons is renowned for the stupidity of its employees. Please bear this in mind

next time you accept advice from one of them on the suitability of a product for a

particular purpose! I'd be shocked if the employee had ever heard of medium format.

Peter - please use the search facility before asking a new question on the forum. Searching

for 'CFi CFE' using the 'Search' link at the top of the MFD forum page returns a number of

older threads, the first of which answers your question (similarly for '120', '220').

You're almost right, but you should only multiply by the 6 bytes once - you multiplied

twice.

3200x6400x2.25x2.25x6 = 600M

Most modern computers will take 2G of memory, and that would be a good amount. A

good rule of thumb for image editing is to have 3x your max. file size.

You may find that you don't gain much from the 6400dpi. Scannng at 3200 by 3200 will

give a smaller file (300M). On a low cost scanner, you'll also be limited by the resolution of

the scanner optics, and that will be under 3200.

I find that scanning at a high resolution, then converting down in photoshop gives better

results than scanning at the 'right' resolution for the output. That said, a 3200dpi scan will

give you a 28 inch square print from uncropped 6x6. Probably more than you need?

I have no idea how long these scans will take - but you should be using firewire or USB2,

since that sort of data over USB1 will take an age.

They're very efficient.

I had a problem with my RZ shortly after buying it and returned it to JP. It was repaired

speedily, and I had no further problems.

They're the UK's official Mamiya importer - if that makes any difference.

> What I wanted to ask is are both of them accurate?

How can we answer this question for you? You can test their accuracy yourself using a

flash meter, a flash gun and some test film.

These rules of thumb such as 'multiply the 6x6 focal length by 0.6' are for people who

can't do maths, and aren't prepared to sit down and actually understand what's going on.

You've discovered that using one 'multiplication factor' is not helpful when comparing two

systems with different film aspect ratios.

The size of the 6x6 frame is 56x56mm. The size of 35mm is 24x36mm. The diagonals are

79mm and 43.3mm respecively. Knowing this, it's very simple maths to work out all the

factors we need:

For square aspect photos we're going to crop 35mm to 24x24mm. The ratio of lens focal

lengths will therefore be 56/24 = 2.33. So for and 80mm lens in 6x6, the 35mm

equivalent is 80/2.33 = 35mm.

If we're going to crop the 6x6 to a 2:3 aspect ratio to match the 35mm framing, we need

to compare the long side of the 35mm frame with 80mm. 56/36 = 1.55. So an 80mm 6x6

lens is equivalent to an 80/1.55 = 51mm lens in 35mm.

As a rule of thumb people usually compare diagonals when comparing lenses, or they base

their comparison off a ratio between 80mm and 50mm - the 'normal' lens focal lengths in

the respective formats. This is where your 0.6 comes from - but that number is unhelpful,

as the 'normal' focal length is usually equivalent to the diagonal measurement of the film,

and 50mm is slightly telephoto for the 35mm format, where the diagonal measures

43.3mm.

Andreas - I agree with the viewpoint that noise can help.

<p>

There are studies which show that the brain is able to discern signals slightly better in

a noisy source: <a href="http://focus.aps.org/story/v11/st25">http://

focus.aps.org/story/v11/st25</a>. It is also a common practice in digital sampling

to add noise to a signal before sampling takes place, as this averages the slightly

inaccurate stepping that digital values take.

<p>

Personally I think I can see more detail in noisy images. Take a look at Michael

Reichman's F828 review (half way down the page - fig 17): <a href="http://

www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/sony828.shtml">http://

www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/sony828.shtml</a>

<p>

The example shows a comparison between the 10D and Sony. The Sony is clearly

more noisy and this is unattractive - but for my money the 10D is also flawed, since it

does appear posterised. Look at the windows on the left, and the covers on the fans -

more noise but also more detail on the Sony image. I accept Reichman's point that

when printed this noise is not noticible, and under those conditions the Soly holds up

well to the DSLR.

The numbers say 1 stop and your experiment confirmed that. That's what you did, so

you shouldn't need to change the processing.

If you're paranoid that you got it wrong try an experiment on some fresh film now

and get that developed to see. Or if you can loose a shot or two, get the lab to run a

clip test.

Have you tried Colab?

<a href="http://www.colab.com/">http://www.colab.com/</a>

One quick comment for Ray...

If you're going to get a 21 day rail pass, and spend 8 of those days in Tokyo, you

should get a 2 week pass instead, or extend your holiday to be 21 days outside

Tokyo.

Travel in the Tokyo area is cheap, as is much local travel. The main use of the pass is

to get you 'round the country on the Shinkansen.

Your location choices are good. Miyajima is nice (& different).

Patrick,

<p>

If you'd like to post images, please make use of the photo.net portfolio feature

whereby you can add pictures to your profile.

<p>

You can also post images to the <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/

forum?topic_id=1481">Image Critique forum</a>:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/forum?topic_id=1481

<p>

If you post images here, then they should really be used to illustrate a Medium

Format related question; the above forum should be used for general picture sharing.

What do you actually want to photograph Patrick?

If you need wide angle, then get the 40, if you need a slightly long normal get the

100.

The 100 is a good lens, but unless you're shooting test charts for a hobby, you might

find that that an 80 or even a 60 is a much better second lens for a range of practical

shooting.

Please don't address forum questions directly to one person - email should be used

for this purpose. I have updated the thread title accordingly.

Which Rob suggested that you do this?

<pre>> You wrote "I needed to keep the shutter button pressed until the exposure

> was over." This shouldn't be necessary with a timed shutter

> speed. Were you shooting on "B"? </pre>

<p>

This IS necessary for longer timed exposures on a Hasselblad. Linda is correct.

> can not find a definition in any available dictionary

<p>

For goodness sake Peter - you have the whole internet at your disposal, but you give

up when you can't find it in your dictionary?

<p>

Go to http://www.google.com/ and type 'hyperfocal' into the box.

<p>

Would an article like <a href="http://www.photofocus.com/zine7/

hyperfocal.html">this</a> go any way towards answering your question?

Try them and buy on that basis. These are two very different cameras, and you may

not be comfortable shooting with both.

Do you need a leaf shutter on each lens? Go H1.

If you're going to buy any other lenses in the future you'll be paying 2 or 3 times

more for the hasselblad ones.

This isn't an investment, especially with digital improving. Buy the system that meets

your needs photographically and which you can afford to expand (if you shoot

professionally you'll want multiple backs and multiple bodies)

You're right about the cause of the noise. The solution is simple, press both buttons

at once! This removes the stress on the linkages, and results in a much smoother

shutter action. It's not too difficult either.

LEDs are not like lightbulbs. They are extremely resilient, and unlikely to fail in

normal conditions.

I think it more likely that the electronics driving the LEDs is defective. Have you used

a PME51 on your Hasselblad before? There may be a problem either in your blad or

the prism electronics - I'd advise you to take both to be serviced.

It's fine.

It has some sort of bearing in it - or a loosely sprung lever. If you put it on the body

and rotate the whole lens/body you shouldn't hear anything.

Max - your links are all coded incorrectly, as Mark points out. You may be able to see

the pictures on a PC running internet explorer, but none of the pictures load on a

Macintosh.

Loose the metered prism and grip, and then decide. I have a 503CW - with back, WLF

and 80mm lens it's a very light 1.5kg.

Gary - what's the name of the lab?

Thanks