andrew l. booth

Elvino - you don't need an RZ-specific book to improve your RZ photography. Ernst Wildi's 'The Medium Format Advantage' is a good book about general MF photography, and is fairly comprehensive.

<p>

Look through the MFD RZ section for RZ specific tips - also make sure you visit <a href="http://www.mamiya.com/">the Mamiya Site</a> to take a look at their RZ forum.

<p>

I just bought 'Techniques of Natural Light Photography' by Jim Zuckerman. It's a good photography book and gives details of shooting in different lighting conditions. Jim uses an RZ, and all the captions show the RZ lens used and the fstop/speed/film details - so you may find this interesting.

<p>

Take a look at <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/dead-trees.html">the photo.net dead trees section</a> for more book suggestions.

<p>

On the subjct of film - 400vc is a portrait film - and not particularly suited to the application you're suggesting. If you want to experiment with exposures and metering on the RZ, slide film would be a better idea, since you can get a much better idea of correct exposure from a slide. I would suggest Fuji Astia, since it doesn't require any exposure corrections out to something like 100 seconds.

Are users upgrading to the new 'II' version?

There are some good Pro shops around London.

<ul>

<li>KJP - big supplier/rental shop. 100m to the west of Euston station.

<li>Teamwork - sells MF/LF etc. Difficult to find - somewhere North of Oxford Circus station.

<li>Leeds - again it's a hire shop but sells lots of gear. The Brunswick centre - 100m NW of Russel Square.

</ul>

<p>

To get the full address/telephone numbers of these places buy 'The British Journal of Photography' and 'Amateur Photographer' from just about any paper shop. BJP is a pro magazine, so the prices don't include 17.5% tax - Amateur Photographer does.

<p>

There are some antigue camera shops in the roads south of the British Museum (Tottenham court road), and Jessops is on New Oxford street (Tottenham Court Road). They also have another MF shop just North of the Houses of Parliament (Westminster). Jessops prices are poor - but you can get a good price if you argue with them. If you don't get 20% discount you're not doing well.

<p>

I haven't seen much Kiev in ANY of these shops. Most likely is probably Jessops or the British Museum shops (or follow the Manchester tip above).

Your macro criteria eliminates a lot of possibilities. I wouldn't want to do macro with a TLR or rangefinder. MF macro can be difficult (as DOF is even worse than 35mm) - and each system has a range of accessories to accomplish macro photography. Personally I think the bellows focussing of the Mamiya RB and RZ are a gift when it comes to macro - used with the standard lens the RZ is about 1:2, and with the #2 tube (82mm I think) it's about 1.5:1. RB/RZ is also great for portraits and landscape (although a tad heavy).

 

If you eliminate the macro criteria you open the field up again. If you're not printing past 11x14 you may want to stick with 645 over 6x7 - this will bring you weight benefits. I'd want to consider the Bronica ETRSi if I were you - for outside portraits the leaf shutters would be useful, and it's a solid system. Otherwise the Mamiya 645 is great for wide inexpensive lenses.

 

One important lesson is that a single MF camera will probably not be as flexable as a 35mm. If you concentrate on a few applications (just landscape/portrait) you may find a better match to your needs.

 

If you haven't used MF before you'll find the results from a C220 or C330 will easly surpass your Nikon. I'd concentrate on usability and handling over the last ounce of optical performance.

Good idea Paul.

 

I'll try that right now.

I've started to see adverts in the UK photo press (Professional Photographer Magazine) for Cokin's 'X-pro' series. This is a rectangular filter system, using 170x130mm 'third generation organic glass'. Filter sizes supported are 62 to 118mm.

No.

 

There's a review of the ETRSi in this months Professional Photographer magazine (published in the UK). Bronica were asked if they were going to add autofocus, and they replied that they had no plans to do this, as it would require large changes to the system, and they don't believe that they will loose sales if they don't.

I don't think you should buy a TLR - I actually think you should look at either an RB67 or Pentax 67 (with waist level finder). My reasoning is:

 

1/ TLRs aren't the only medium format cameras with waist level finders (where you compose looking down into the camera). Most medium format SLRs come with a waist level finder - this can be swapped for a prism if you want. Prisms are useful for rectangular format cameras, since the camera must be rotated through 90 degrees to compose a portrait photograph, and waist level finders are very difficult to use under these circumstances. Some of the larger 6x7 cameras have a rotating back, so that you just rotate the back, not the camera and can continue shooting portrait with the waist level finder. (A prism may also provide metering functions).

 

2/ You're going to find it difficult to buy a camera with standard, wideangle and tele lenses for #1000. You may be looking at a second hand camera just to buy the basic body+1 lens. I would buy a camera system which is still in production so that you can easily find second hand lenses, and you can easily hire lenses that you need without needing to buy. There are very few TLRs still made, and I don't believe there are any production TLRs with an interchangable lens system.

 

3/ Film format. Even though your output device is capable of 1400dpi, you will not require this resolution of scan for a good print. You will probably not discern detail over 300dpi. A 300dpi image at 40 inches = a 12000 pixel width scan. This is pushing medium format - therefore I recommend using the largest film size you can. For a medium format camera within your budget that's probably 6x7. I shoot 6x7 and get pretty good PhotoCd scans made which are around 4000x5000 pixels.

 

4/ Don't write off large format. You can buy lightweight large format field cameras, and there are several large format kits that you could put together new for less than #1000. Buying used you could end up with a nice system for that money. It's also possible to hire extra lenses for LF (and a 5x4 transparency would comfortable give you the scans you're looking for). If convenience worries you though, I'd stick with MF.

 

5/ If you're looking for a production 6x7 camera with waist level finder, good hire/second hand availability for under #1000 in the UK I think you need be looking at a used Mamiya RB67, or a used Pentax67. A complete RB kit can be had new for #1100 (ex VAT). It's a great camera, very solid, revolving film back, and with a very good supply of used and hire lenses. A Pentax with standard 105mm lens (no prism) is about #1200 (ex) new, and can be used with a waist level finder. The Pentax shutter is in the camera body rather than each lens - so lenses are less complex, and are available new and used for less than the RB equivalents.

 

6/ Don't forget accessories. I'm not sure what you already have, but you will need an incident meter (Sekonic 308II is very good at around #120) and a sturdy tripod to acheive high resolution images.

 

Hope this helps. Apologies if I've made any incorrect assumptions - please post your own comment to follow up if you want to add anything more.

Darlene, have you taken a look at the <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/">photo.net</a> site?<p>

There's an article on <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/studio-photography.html">studio photography</a> which you should find helpful.

Try <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/optics/index.html">the Photo.net optics page</a>.

Hi Staszek. I've been in Tokyo for the last few weeks and went to Yodobashi camera last weekend. It's an amazing store. Prices are very good, although the one thing I was looking to buy was more expensive than in the UK (Toho 45X). LF Lenses also seemed expensive.

 

I noted a few prices down (mainly Mamiya/Fuji) - prices are in Yen: 645zi (156000), GW680III/690III (127000), GSW6x0III (141000), Mamiya 7II+80mm (216600), Fuji Xpan (177400), Mamiya 645TL Kit (213000), ETRSi Kit (188000), RZ Kit (238500). Fuji LF lenses: 75/5.6 (119000), 90/5.6 (120000), 150/5.6 (64000), 180/5.6 (75000), Toho 45X (159300).

 

Bronica lenses seemed reasonable, although I don't have any prices.

 

Interesting to note that Fuji sell 6x8 and 6x9 rangefinders with both wide and normal lenses - I couldn't see any 6x7s. I had a play around with the zi and it was great, although I prefer the simplicity of the bigger rangefinders. The Fuji Xpan looks identical to the Hassy, but the product name is something different (don't recall). I was suprised how expensive it was - I'd much rather have a 645zi.

 

Hope that answers your question!

It has always puzzled me why Mamiya gear carries such a large price in the States. In the UK, where 35mm gear is much more expensive, Mamiya seems reasonable. For as long as I can remember, a full RZ kit has been available for less than a Nikon F5. A new RZ kit (not grey import) can be had at the moment for around 1200 pounds or $1900 (before sales tax).

 

Are the prices even cheaper in Asia? This weekend I'm planning to visit Yodobashi - and I may pick up an RZ AE prism if it's a good price.

Richard, I faced the same decision as you a couple of years ago. I hired an RZ, loved it & couldn't face giving up the rotating back, film size, close focussing etc. so I accepted the high weight.

<p>

It is possible to carry it around, and if you travel mainly by car it could work out OK. Even with just the one standard lens, it's an awesome system (which I've actually taken <a href="http://abooth.com/tanzania/LionTree.html">on safari</a>). It's interesting to use on the streets, since I've found people react when you put a camera to your eye, but tend to ignore one which you view at waist level.

<p>

At the end of the day you do risk turning the camera into your enemy though. You wouldn't take it with you 'just in case' - it's too heavy (and the glass gets heavy very quicky as you add extra lenses). I bought a Fuji GW670III which I prefer to carry. I can put this in a small bag and forget about it, and one standard lens isn't too much of a limitation. Of the two it sounds like the M7 would be more suited to your needs, but you would need to accept its limitations. Perhaps the Pentax 67 would offer you a better set of compromises (and there are plenty of previous MFD threads discussing handholding this).

(Hopefully the last off-topic post in this thread)

 

I don't have a problem with manufacturers posting information about their products as long as they identify themselves and refrain from 'advertising'. I believe Kornelius' posting in this thread complies with both these points.

 

Perhaps Zeiss/Hasselblad should take a good look at the excellent Mamiya site and implement a user-forum area on their Hasselblad pages, since there's clearly demand for more manufacturer information!

As forum maintainer, I welcome input from those with 'insider knowledge' - as long as:

 

1/ You make your interests clear in your posting

 

2/ You don't make a sales pitch for your product

 

I have no complaints with your posting Per, and welcome you to the digest!

Scott, if it makes you feel any better, after the security official at London Gatwick refused to hand inspect my 50 rolls of 120 he told me that they would receive more radiation during a 13 hour flight at 30000 feet than they would passing through his scanner.

 

No - it didn't make me feel any better either.

The batteries that Sekonic include in the box are junk. I used them in my 408, and it died after only about 2 hours use (at the time I didn't have any spares on me, but luckily I bumped into a friendly MF'er who gave me a reading!)

 

I haven't really had problems since then - I use Duracell batteries and they last me a long time, certainly longer than 10 hours. I always carry spares now.

Marcelo, if you ask for a hand-check in a UK airport you probably won't be granted one. I think that the US CAA gives you the right to have film hand checked (just give them plenty of time to do this, and make it easy by packing film in plastic bags).

 

UK airports have installed the high-power Xray machines for hold luggage, but don't warn travellers about their destructive effects on film. The UK magazine 'Amateur Photographer' ran a campaign last year to try to get airports to do hand-checking, and won the agreement of BAA head of security, but this decision was later reversed and the current situation is that all carry-on luggage must go through the Xray machine.

 

I find this very annoying as I tend to travel to places where you can't buy or process 120. Last October I carried 50 rolls of Astia/Velvia to East Africa and was forced to have it Xrayed (fortunately there were no ill effects). I'm prepared to have low-speed film Xrayed, but I would also like to try travelling with some of the Ilford 3200, and I'm not as confident about having this Xrayed. 50 rolls of film weight a fair amount, and many of the airlines are simultaneously tightening up carry on restrictions to 6kg (try packing an RZ, 50 rolls of film and keeping everything below 6kg). I'm not prepared to trust either camera or film to checked luggage.

 

If you can detect some pessimism here, you're quite correct! I really don't know the answer. I wouldn't use a lead lined bag in checked luggage, since the new machines purposefully turn the Xray power up quite high to see through this sort of thing. As for carry-on, I'm not sure if they change the Xray power. For small amounts of 120 you may be able to carry unwrapped film in pockets (since it won't trigger the metal detector).

As part of the weekend's upgrade to the photo.net bulletin board

software (including the software used for the Medium Format Digest),

the list of email subscribers to the MFD has been cleared.

<p>

If you wish to receive the digest by email, it's easy to (re)subscribe

using the <a

href="http://www.photo.net//bboard/add-alert.tcl?topic=Medium%20Format%20D

igest">click here to add an alert</a> link at the bottom of the MFD

home page. Also this link if you wish to turn your subscription off

(ie unsubscribe) at any time in the future.

<p>

It is possible to specify a list of keywords on the subscrption screen

if you want to filter your emails to only cover certain subjects.

<p>

Before subscribing, please remember that the email digest can get

quite

large. I receive error messages from some email accounts which fill up

and aren't able to receive the weekly email (this can reach 200k in

size). If you use a free email account (such as juno.com) and check

your mailbox irregularly you may find that I have to unsubscribe you

for this reason.

To change your name, if you're not happy with the name the system has defaulted to, click on the <a href="http://www.photo.net/pvt/home.tcl">photo.net</a> link on the first page (or click here)<p>

There's an option there to update your name, and add your own web link if you want.

Gene, to answer your question, you have to have logged in to see other people's email addreses. I think you may also see email addreses if you have logged in previously and accepted a cookie while posting (you checked the 'remember this login/password combination').

</p>

Trouble is that it looks like you're not asked to log in until you either try to ask or answer a question. So you can't see other's email addresses until you do this. I guess this is a bug - please email me or post to this thread if you think you find others.

</p>

You may also want to read the thread <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000N0q">New photo.net ID system question</a> where this new system is also being discussed.

</p>

I think that having logged in you should be able to change your name details by clicking on a posting with your own name.

Steve, there's a previous thread discussing <a

href="http://db.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000JWB">

Exposure compensation using PME5 meter prism with Acute Matte

screen</a> in the archive - I'm not sure whether it will be useful to

you (except to confirm that you do need to make an adjustment).

Have you tried the <a href="http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/">Really

Right Stuff</a> Arca style quick release plates. I haven't used them

myself, but others swear by them.

Bob, there are a couple of good threads in the MFD 'Hasselblad'

section covering the Flexbody:

 

<p>

 

<a

href="http://db.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000GTn">

Flexbody</a>

 

<p>

 

<a

href="http://db.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000HuC">

Hasselblad PC-Mutar vs. Flexbody</a>

 

<p>

 

However, neither describes user's experiences fully. It would be

interesting to hear some feedback on this subject.

Thomas, If you need a repair shop close to home, you'd better tell us

where in the world you live...