john_lee23
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Posts posted by john_lee23
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<p>For manual operation, set it to flash (red) and the shutter speed will be set to 1/30 sec and you can adjust your f/stop accordingly. Set to (green), you can set the f/stop and the shutter is set to bulk.<br /> FYI on the side next to the shutter trigger, there is a cable release. (It is not well indicated even on the user guide.)</p>
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<p>It is sad that Kodachrome is sunset. There just not enough people shooting slides any more and it does't make sense for Kodak to support both Koda and Ekta processes. B&H is out of Kodachrome 64 already. I think you can still get the film at a price. (Saw someone selling it at $30 a roll on line) But if you can't get it process it is no good :( Can someone give us a Kodachrome filter on photoshop? I think is signify the change from photography to photoshopgraphy.</p>
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<p>I think most if not all battery power on camera flashes should be safe for most popular cameras. You can only get 6V out of 4 AA batteries. If you use a AC studio flash then you should read your owner manual and see what the spec say. Most modern studio flash tell you what their trigger voltage is. For Alien Bees it is less than 6V. You should able to measure the trigger voltage with a multi meter from Radio Shack. Hold the negative probe on the side of the pc terminal and carefully put the positive probe on the center pole of the pc terminal as long as you don't trip the flash, you should get a reading. That is the trigger voltage.</p>
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<p>Hi,<br>
I have an Elan IIE with QD. The QD databack uses a CR2025 battery and I just lost the battery cover fixing screw. Any idea where I can find a replacement?</p>
<p>Thanks.</p>
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Does anyone notice a slight different on the battery insert between the 645 AFD and 645 AFD II? I got 2 used AFD II on ebay from the NorthWest and I think they are student package. The battery insert is filed down a bit so that it can fit into the handle smoothly. My 645 AFD battery insert can't go in smoothly. It is a very tight fit. I couldn't get a straight answer from Mamiya Support. They told me that the battery insert should be exactly the same. But I have seen for myself that they don't There may be some slight defected AFD II out there. Other than this slight physical defect, the camera itself seems to operate fine.
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I am using a Alvin translucent cutting mat with a C-Thru triangle with a cutting edge and a good x-acto knife on top of a light box. I like to cut with the sleeve from the lab and this work out great.
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I put in a Duracell 6v battery from my light meter and the meter seems to work. In addition, how does the PME3 knows what is the shutter speed setting? On it, I see a setting for ASA and Max Aperture for the lens. Without knowing the shutter speed how does it give an EV reading? Does anyone know the formula for converting EV to f/stop?
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Does anyone know where I can get a manual for the PME3? I need to know what type
of battery does it take. If any one has that information, please let me know.
Thanks.
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I like my Contax. The lens are faster but more expensive. I think in general, Most Contax lens are at least f/2.8 where as Mamiya lens are f/3.5 or slower. The filter size for Contax is also larger 72mm and Mamiya is 58mm. I like the Contax a little more than the Mamiya about 65/45. Because of the faster lens and the Contax has more of a manual camera. They are selling for about the same price on eBay. Digital back for them are still too expensive for me right now. But I think they will come down.
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I bought a used Contax 645 on ebay. I am still on the 2CR5 battery that came with the camera and I shot up to 10 rolls of 120 with auto focus and I am have close to full battery power. So far I don't see any battery problem.
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There are also rechargeable 6v external battery pack made by Maha. I am sure there are other external battery pack out there. The Maha 6v battery pack is less than $50.
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Yes, the power grip is one option for the power problem that many have said. You can also get a M-8 power pack which let you use 4AA batteries. The M-8 power pack is less than a $90.00. New power grip and power pack are still available.
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The Pentax 645 is a great camera and the 645 lens are not bad. I have a Pentax 645 and a number of Pentax 35mm system. I am not crazy about the 35mm but I do like the Pentax 645. It would be a good camera to get into MF. Another option is to look at the Mamiya 645E. It is kind a like the Pentax where you don't have interchangable back. With the Mamiya, you may still use the lens if you want to upgrade your body later. Pentax is talking about come out with a digital 645. I don't know if it is going to be a whole new camera body or a digital back type of thing. But since the 645 doesn't have interchangable back, I would guess it would be a whole new body.
I have the Pentax 645 for a long and still loving it. But if I am looking to get a MF now, I would also look at the Mamiya 645E.
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The Mamiya website doesn't fully support Mozilla FireFox. With FireFox all the links on the left are not showing. This site works fine with IE6.
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Thanks Peter, for some reason I am not getting the full content with Firefox but with IE6 I was able to see what you have listed.
Does anyone have a copy or xerox copy that they want to sell?
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Hi Peter, do you have the web address? I went into www.mamiya.com but I can't found what you have listed. Thanks.
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Does anyone know of any sites where you can download the Mamiya 645
AFD Instruction Manual? I can't find any information on the Mamiya
website. Thanks.
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Hi Nino,
That was great input. I think that is exactly what every one goes through when comparing 2 systems. I think even if there are differences between the Zeiss and Mamiya lens, it doesn't necessary make one better than the other. I also think most of your clients or even photographers could see the different or be able pick out the better image. I am sure I would be happy with either one of them. I would mind having both of them if I can afford it. Right now, I am looking for the best deal I can find.
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Has anyone been burn with a international warranty? Or you had no problem with it in the US and which camera is it.
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If you buy a camera from oversea with international warranty, does
that warranty good in the US? Or is it relatively worthless?
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If reliability is important then you should shoot with a Nikon F3 or any other mechanical camera like the Hasselblad 500. Any electronic camera is as good as the battery. But digital is the way of the future, you can't get away from those batteries...That is why I am looking at these 2 camera systems.
I looked at the Contax 645 and Mamiya 645 AFD today. There is a different on how they handled. The Contax feel lighter and better balance. The Mamiya feel heavier and it is back heavy. Contax lets you control the aperture and focus on the lens. Overall, it has the look and feel of a mechanical camera. I have a Nikon N80, to this day, I can't remember how to manually change the aperture without looking at the manual. I don't think Mamiya is as plastic as people said. The auto focus on Mamiya is faster than Contax. I have a RZ67 and a 6 so I know Mamiya optic is not bad at all. So is the Pentax 645 system. They cost about the same for new or used. I guess it really come down to personal preference and handling. Also if auto focus is important for you, then Mamiya maybe a better choice. I think there are about the same number of digital backs available for both cameras.
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I am thinking about getting a Contax 645 or a Mamiya 645 AFD. Does
anyone has any suggestion or comments? I noticed for a new system,
the two are about the same with Contax being $200-$300 more. But for
a used system, Contax is a bit less than Mamiya. (a mint Mamiya is
about $2300 and Contax is about $2000) Does Contax 645 loss it value
faster?
Thanks.
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Does anyone know if the 126 format film is still available? Any info
is welcome. Thanks.
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Can anyone recommend a lab in Manhattan for 120 film processing? For
both Slides and Prints.
Thanks.
hasselblad repair in NYC
in Medium Format
Posted