bernard_frank

The second one is a hotshoe with a piece of sync cord to which I add an inexpensive

"peanut." And you can screw both on top of a stand. No sweat. And voila..

All this in M mode, of course.<div></div>

Believe me, David, the SB-600 can be optically triggered. Not by itself, mind you, but here

are two very simple configurations which work. The first one is a hotshoe with a built-in

optical eye...<div></div>

Mamiya 7II. Rangefinder-like, compact, light, easy to use, good meter, and the lenses are

fabulous.

I guess the Epson 700-V will be the way to go for a MF scanner. Not too expensive and a

good resolution.

David,

If the Wein hotshoe has a PC socket, you could buy an inexpensive "peanut" and just plug

it in via a small lenght of PC sync cord. Then, your SB-600 could be optically triggered by

the SB-800, and you could use the SB-800 as main.

Yes, aren't those manuals generally awful? I think Nikon win hands down in the awful

category with their manuals for speedlights. As an ailine pirlot, you must know a thing or

two about manuals, yet even you can't find your way ;)

David, you are absolutely right, and you're not slow. I am. I can't find a way to use the

SB-600 as an optical slave either. It didn't occur to me that I always used it in remote slave

mode with the SB-800 as main and the D200 in "commander mode". However, I have this

hotshoe, it is called a "Mini-cell" and it has both a "peanut" and a PC sync outlet. It triggers

the SB-600 optically very well with the SB-800 as main. Try to get one.

Thanks, David, I get it. But MY MicroSync didn't come with a PC cord. Not that I remember,

anyway. And, any reason why you chose the SB-800 as the slave and the SB-600 as the

main, instead of the other way around? After all, the SB-800 does have a PC sync outlet,

and the SB-600 can fire in optical slave mode, right?

Very nice, David. If I may ask, what Nikon speedlights did you use, and how did you

connect the MicroSync receiver to one, what with its big jack?

Hold the camera in your left hand, hold the back in your right hand, move the little lever

on the top left side of the back (right above the release for the back door) forward with

your right thumb, hold it there and PRESS DOWN on it. The back should just move out

from the top very easily.

Interesting, but most of the pictures have blown out highlights. Boost contrast, boost

saturation, over-"curves" the whole thing, and that's what you get. I don't like it.

How long would you say an unopened pouch and box of Perceptol will keep, stored at room

temperature?

Thanks.

I've been able to compare the Mamiya 80 mm with the Contax 645 Zeiss 80 mm, the Hassy

Zeiss 80 mm and an older Rollei 2.8F Zeiss Planar 80 mm. I think the Mamyia wins hands

down in terms of sharpness and contrast. In b&w, anyway. I think any MF 80 mm will be

hard pressed to beat the Mamyia. If the FX does it, that's quite an accomplishment.

Unless there is a valid warranty, with plenty of time left, unless this is not grey market, and

unless the seller has a long (5 years plus) and a very positive feedback history, I would not

buy any digital camera on eBay. Not anymore, that is. eBay has, unfortunately, become a

haunt of crooks of all kinds. That's e eBay's own fault, because they never really took

serious care of all the complains for swindling, especially complains from from buyers.

who take all the risks. Now, AFAIC, eBay is doomed.

That being said the D200 is a very reliable camera. As we speak I am in the process of

processing some pictures I took this afternoon, under heavily overcast skies, and I keep

marvelling at how little needs to be done in post-processing to get a technically good

picture from the D200.

"RTM" will do. We can do without the" F". ;-)

Leonard, press the "Enter" (or the "Loupe") button while an image is displayed. Then use

the "Thumbnails" button (the little squares) in conjunction with the main dial to zoom in

more, and with the pad to navigate around in the image.

But, yes, by all means, RTM.

For the VueScan users out there who scan b&w, is there any advantage/inconvenient in using multiple

passes (what VueScan calls "samples") beyond, say, 4 or 6? Time notwithstanding of course. What do

you use? My scanner is Nikon LS 4000 for 35 mm, and Epson 3200 for MF (which is on the

verge of being replaced by something more state-of-the-art) on a Mac G5.

Many thanks.

Macs are great for anything creative, image our sound. And it's NOT a religion. Remember

that the vast majority of imaging work like computer animation or scenery design in the

movie industry, or photo editing for that matter, is done on Macs. Didn't you notice that,

when you see a computer in a film - more oftent than not it'll be a cool-looking laptop -

it's a Mac 10 to 1. There's gotta be a reason :-)

I've used Nikon Scan for years, but with mixed results with traditional b&w. I haven't used Vuescan

much so far, but I want to give it a fair try. However, I can't figure out, for the life of me, how to have

the program automatically generate successive numbers for batch scans. It keeps asking me if I want to

"overwrite" existing files with the same name. I'm sorry, I just don't get it. And the "instructions" are

anything but helpful.

My scanner is Nikon LS 4000, and my system is Mac OS 10.3. I'd greatly appreciate some help.

Thanks.

I'm sure you know that already, but just in case: you must nonetheless double the quantity

of developer, of course.

Merry Christmas!

Thank you all. I'll process at EI 400, and we'll see.

Frank, to answer your question about Tri X vs C-41 b&w, I much prefer the look, grain,

contrast and tonality range of Tri X than either XP-2's or T400CN's. I find them nice but

kind of soft. They lack a bit of "punch". Also, I like to process my films myself. But you're

right, C-41 b&w films do scan easier than any true b&w film, except, maybe, FP4.

This must be a classical boob. I shot a roll of Tri X with a model in the studio, cranked it back, and

wrote EI 200 on the leader because I was certain I had shot it at 200, since I do this very often. Then, it

dawned on me that I may have shot it at nominal speed, 400. And indeed, my camera shows 400 on the

ISO dial, and I didn't use it since. But actually, I'm not sure of anything anymore. How would you

process that film? This is to scan the neg later.

Thank you.

I am looking for a waist-level finder for my Contax 645. These 645 accessories are really becoming

hard to come by. Anybody has one they want to part from, by any chance? Or point me to where I could

get one?

Thanks a lot.

Paul Sokal:

" The reason to shoot RAW has nothing to do with the qualities of JPEG files and everything

to do with having complete control over your image. What an idiotic response from

Canon."

Absolutely.

Now, let's see what other crap they'll come up with to explain the absence of a battery

charge indicator. BTW, is the G7 the only, and I mean the ONLY, digital compact in the

entire universe not to provide a battery charge indicator? At least in that price range.

Check your manual, Hala, p. 152-153. What Auto-ISO does is let the camera change the

chosen ISO setting if there is no exposure possible with that particular ISO. You cans till

chose the sensibility you want.

Hala, your last post is right on. When shooting in the studio, I almost always shoot

Nef+basic jpeg. One reason is, as you state it, you can burn a CD with the jpegs (after a

first screening) for the client or the model to choose from. Another reason is that, when

doing the screening, using Nikon View for instance, the jpeg full images will come up on

the monitor from the thumbnails much faster than the Nef. Then it's just a matter of

tagging both thumbnails versions of the bad photos to trash them, or archive them, or

whatever you want to do with them.

As for the LCD brightness, do what feels comfortable to your eyes, BUT do not judge

exposure with the LCD only. It can be very misleading. Always use the histogram.

Annette, go ahead, ask as many questions as you want. They won't be dumb, and this is

what those forums are all about :-)

A Maxwell screen, as it is much brighter than the original old Rollei, will help you focus

much easily, especially with the split-screen focus aid in the center.

Here is Bill Maxwell's e-mail address:

" maxwellprecisionoptics@toast.net "

He'll send you a list of available screens for your particular model. Now, be aware that

these screens are not cheap. But they're worth their price. Other people swear only by the

Beattie screens. It's an never ending clash.