douglas_price

<p>I don't know anything about the feisol tripods, but if you think you might want one they are sold in the US by http://reallybigcameras.com/</p>

<p>Elevator digital in Toronto does this. Be prepared to open your wallet and cry, however. I don't think anyone in the US still does it.</p>

<p>I've personally met with Ed Praus and toured his lab. The man certainly knows what he is doing.</p>

<p>The doctrine of first sale means if you buy a print, you can resell that print (not make copies, but I think you know this). You'd have a hard time making money, as you'd be on the hook if you chose something you couldn't sell. Galleries normally have the artist furnish the print and take a percentage of sales.</p>

<p>The only way to make use of all that extra bit depth is to use RAW.</p>

<p>Efren, I think what he means is you should get a catchlight in her eyes. I think your shot looks good, except there seems to be a lot of noise in the shadows. You might want to look into that.</p>

<p>Lets assume he means examples of solid lighting work, and get on with it.</p>

<p>http://www.eoloperfido.com/<br>

http://www.qstra.pl/</p>

<p>$400 total? per day?<br>

perhaps you could pay by wire transfer to a reputable dealer?<br>

What country, and why the limit?</p>

<p>total sales amount / number of sessions<br>

Of course you should add the session fee. It's money, right?</p>

<p>COGS is anything you can directly link to production of your goods. Your session fee is income. It isn't a cost to you. COGS is stuff like, cost of printing, cost of CD, album, etc. Anything that is consumed in making your product. </p>

<p>I would say you are approaching magenta.</p>

Well, after a couple days airing out it was still no better. I put in a fresh battery and it now emits a whine, like a cap charging. I don't think it's coming back.

I was using a zoom at the time, 24-70mm sigma, seems to get rather cavernous inside at 70. This may indeed be the problem. It's been sitting now since it was first suggested to air it out. I will try it out tomorrow.

 

I guess now I've just to save my pennies for a 40D or a 5D, but wonder if, without weather sealing these would be just as susceptible. Maybe the camera just needs to ride in the trunk instead of with me. I always bagged my cameras coming in during the winter, it seems so much overkill to do the same in the summer.

 

Thank you all for your kind suggestions. We'll see tomorrow what happens.

Dan, condensation is possible, it was in the air conditioned car, then out into warm moist air, however that was about 40 minutes before the problems started. I'll try that for about 24 hours.

 

Sarah, yeah, given it's age I would most likely be looking at replacing it or poking around inside myself rather than sending it to Canon. If further airing out doesn't do anything I'll look for a disassembly guide.

I was at the beach, no sand, and didn't get any water on it, finishing up a

portrait session when suddenly my LCD cut to white and the camera shut off.

Whenever the camera tries to fire up the LCD it goes white and the camera dies.

I tried it with the video out cable to a TV and the camera fires, writes,

displays menu, etc, but no dice on the LCD.

 

I already tried leaving the batteries (the biggun and the button cell) and lens

off overnight.

 

Basically what it looks like is the LCD is getting power, the backlight turns on

(thus the white screen) but no data.

 

I guess I could grab my meter and pretend I'm shooting film, but I do so like my

histograms.

 

Any thoughts?

I have found that with a little practice you can get better results scanning as a positive and using photoshop curves. best part is, you can save your curves and then apply to all you images as a starting point

Definatly go with the well established merchants like those suggested thus far, and avoid places like eBay. There is far too much paranoia on eBay about shipping to foreign buyers and it's best to just avoid dealing with the stupid sellers.

Viviar 283 + <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=245292&is=REG&addedTroughType=search">Wein Safe Sync</a>

It looks like a poor focussing issue. Make sure you're focussed on the model, and try a smaller aperture.

How about painting it matte black? Perhaps it is the tungsten light source? You could try blue filters designed for tungsten filtration.

Heck. Why bother with the DSLR when you can pick up a fuji quicksnap at walmart?

Do you not want the black background to be black?

 

It seems to be that the easy solution to have them separated is to keep light off the background and have the subject wear dark grey. If you want light on the background then you'll need another light, or you'll need to repurpose one of your lights and use a reflector for fill on the subject.

yes. I second that you'd need about 3000 watts to be useful.

3000w / 120v = 25A

 

I doubt they would appreciate you blowing their fuses / circuit breakers.

I thought you couldn't enlarge onto AZO. I was wondering why, as no reason was ever given. From what I've seen of AZO, I wish I had the facilities to try it myself. I take it the LED head is crucial, because of the blue only sensitivity of AZO, and a standard head wouldn't work?

Assuming I could manage to scrape together an enlarger and some trays, would a color head, or blue filtration on a standard head help me? What about the cost of building an LED head? (I'm proficient enough in soldering)

 

This is really interesting news :)

Bill,

 

3 minutes is longer than 10 seconds.

not when they can sell you wireless as an add-on for $1000