marymac
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Posts posted by marymac
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I was recently using a Rebel XT with a 580EX flash and I found that if I changed to the Portrait mode the flash was perfect, while full auto underexposed. The limitation is that it only makes a jpeg (can't do Raw in the basic modes) but it worked perfectly when I handed off the camera to someone else.
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Sigma sells lenses for a variety of camera manufacturers and you have to ensure that the lens you buy is for the right brand first (Canon, Nikon, Minolta, Pentax etc), and the right mount second.
For example Canon AE-1 has an FD mount while the newer (in the last 10 years or so?) Canon cameras have an EOS mount. There may be info printed on the lens or lens mount that specifies what camera and mount the lens is for, or you could take it into a camera store (or Best Buy) and try it on the current models.
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The Sensorsweep brush at Naturescapes.com is a reasonably priced option for cleaning the sensor. I have a Visible Dust brush and it works great but the price on them is ridiculous and unneccessarily high. Try Naturescapes - they're very efficient.
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It isn't freeware but iMatch will do what you want for $60. It's got excellent image cataloging and keywording and allows you to store stuff on removable media like CDs and DVDs.
Hopefully someone will come up with a freeware version for you but if not you could create a simple database in Access that lists each image, the number of the CD it is on and a few keywords if that's all you want.
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Do you have Strikethough set for your font? Does the line show up when you print?
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Conni -
I read a thread on Steve's Forums where someone using the Ilford Smooth Pearl had trouble with the ink not drying after 10 days. Have you noticed anything like that? Does specifying the Film profile you mention above put less ink on the paper and allow for a faster drying time? Also, you mentioned in another thread that you coat your photos with a fixative after printing and I was wondering if that works well on the Ilford papers?
Thanks! - Mary
http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=57325&forum_id=56&jump_to=324332
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I just ordered the 8750 myself and am looking forward to trying out the Ilford papers everyone is raving about. Ilford does publish ICC profiles for the 8750 - are these the ones you tried Dale? I was planning to try them out in any case but I'm curious to know what your results were.
http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/prod_html/galerie/IJPROFILES/default.asp
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Any upgrade will work. I had the educational version of CS and bought the regular $149 version upgrade to CS2. Worked fine.
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See http://www.resellerratings.com/seller1805.html
They've got a rating of 0.56 out of 10 over the last 6 months so that tells you this outfit is not a good one to buy from, to say the least!
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You don't really need that much equipment. I just read Ebay Photos That Sell and I highly recommend reading this or some equivalent before investing in any equipment.
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Amazon has them in stock and they have a great return policy if you should need it.
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Weston (or Marissa?)
Go to Image > Image Size and ensure that the Resample Image checkbox is UNchecked, then change the DPI to 300. You are not changing the number of pixels in the image (upsampling) you are just changing the way the pixels are portrayed (72 per inch or 300 per inch). This will not affect the file size at all.
- Mary
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William -
Using PSCS2 I do color correction and some curves in Raw, but I only do sharpening in PS since you have a LOT more control of it. If you apply sharpening in Raw the sharpening is applied to the whole picture since you can't use any masks to control what you are sharpening. - Mary
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I just tried this free plug-in last week called BW Filter and it seems to give you a lot of flexibility in the conversion. When you run this action it converts the image to B&W with three new layers in the layers menu. You can double-click on each layer (particularly on the Filter(Hue)layer) and adjust the appearance to your liking. Go to http://epaperpress.com/psphoto/ , click on Black and White in the left column then click on BW Filter. Lots of other cool filters and actions here too (free).
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Dee -
PSCS2 is mainly an image editing program like Elements and does not include an image cataloguing function per se (that I know of) though you can add IPTC keywords to help you search for images. My understanding of Album is that it is an image cataloging program. If so, you could probably continue to use Album 2.0 to catalog your images and use PSCS2 for editing instead of Elements. You don't actually import the 3000 image library into CS2, but you can use CS2 to edit your images.
CS2 can do a lot more with an image than Elements, but the stuff you learned in Elements will help you get started in CS2. I would suggest getting a good PSCS2 book to get you started (you can look through lots of them at a bookstore) so you have a better idea of what can be done with CS2 before you make the investment. It may be that everything you want to do can be done in Elements 3, which would make CS2 a very expensive pain in the neck. That said - I use CS2 every day and love it but it does take some time to learn. Good luck! -
Mary
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See www.resellerratings.com before you buy from people like this. Royal Camera has a rating of 1.72 out of a possible 10. I'd find somewhere legit to buy from.
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Dan -
Moving the focus to the * button lets you separate the process of auto focusing from the process of auto exposing (using Av or Tv modes). In use it lets you focus as you want (auto focus with the * button or manually focus)then press the shutter halfway to lock the exposure. When you press the shutter down fully it takes the picture.
- Mary
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Hi Jacqueline -
Extension tubes are used for macro photography (taking closeups). When you put a tube between the camera body and lens the lens will be able to focus at something closer than it normally would. The longer the extension tube, the closer the lens can focus. They are very useful but they have a couple disadvantages. 1) Extension tubes absorb more light so you lose a stop with a short tube and more stops the more tubes you add. 2) You lose your infinity focus.
So here's a hypothetical example: If you have a lens that can normally focus from 3 feet to infinity, adding a 12mm extension tube will allow you focus from 6 to 48 inches instead, and you have to use one stop more light (enlarge aperture or longer shutter speed). If you add a 25mm extension tube you may be able to focus from 3 to 24 inches but you need to add 2 or more stops to the exposure.
Look for John Shaw's "Closeups in Nature" for more info. Hope this helps - Mary
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If you do get the timer remote to work, here's a thread with some details from a guy who's doing time lapse shots in LA with a 20D. There's also a link to his website where he's posted some "movies" he's compiled. It's pretty cool...
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Beautiful portraits!
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That is probably dust on the sensor. Use a nylon brush to clean it off. I have the Visible Dust brush but if I had it to do it again I'd get the Copper Hill Sensor Sweep instead - it's much more reasonably priced! They're selling them at Naturscapes.com now. http://www.naturescapes.net/store/product.php?productid=102&cat=14&page=1
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I have had good success at improving dynamic range using the Shadow/Highlights tool in CS2 under Image > Adjustments > Shadow/Highlights. Be sure to check the Show More Options button for max flexibility. It takes a little messing around but not as much time as some other methods.
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Jan - You can get the most recent version of the hack from the Undutchables website (http://www.gpi.dk/300d/). A good friend of mine uses it with excellent results. You can revert the camera to the original firmware if you don't care for the changes but I can't imagine why you would. I haven't heard of any problems with it. Good luck! - Mary
Help Me Choose A Digital Darkroom
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
Regarding printers:
I recently bought the HP 8750 printer after dithering between the 8750 and the Epson 2400. As others have mentioned here, the deciding point for me was the frequency of printing. I often print in batches but it may be days or weeks until I get to the next batch so I ultimately went with the HP because the print heads do not clog like the Epson's do, and they are replaced with each cartidge (built in to the cartridge). If I printed daily I would have more seriously considered the Epson.
The HP has gorgeous color, though, and I'm very happy with it. There are also Matte papers for the HP: HP has Premium Plus Photo Matte and the Ilford Smooth Pearl is lovely. I previously liked glossy but now that I've seen the matte prints from the HP I'm a convert. The HP is also $400 less than the Epson.