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heimbrandt

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Posts posted by heimbrandt

  1. Andrew, I have two SB-800 speedlights that I used to trigger from the built-in flash on my D800E when I could not use my studio lights. Since I got a Godox X1T and two X1R to trigger my speedlights, I have not used the built-in flash. The Godox system is reliable, not a black frame to date. Exposure is up to the camera as it is is fully iTTL/CLS/HSS compatible. The transmitter allows for setting the flash manually (in 1/3 steps from 1/1-1/128), use TTL with exposure compensation dialed in independetly for up to four groups (1/3 steps +/-3 steps for up to a 6 stop difference between the groups). It also has an IR emitter for AF assist light, which works well. While the Godox do not have the same build quality as Nikon, they are still adequately built, especially when you factor in the price.

     

    My friend fell for the ”Elinchrom inspired” design of the Godox X1Pro, but both the X1T and Pro do the same job. Godox also doubles as a remote camera trigger. He bought it for use with a D810 and SB-800 but now uses it with a D850, SB-800 and a Godox AD600E.

  2. I would go for a used SB-800 and judge its condition by its cosmetics and included accessories if I cannot test it in person. If it charges on time and puts out light (tested via M and the guide number rule) like it should, it can be a bargain in the long run.

     

    I have bought lots used flashes from Canon, Metz, Nikon and Sunpak and others over the decades. None ever caused me any problems.

     

    I respect that Shun advices against buying such an old model, but in this case I strongly and respectfully disagree with him. The line between facts and opinion is thin. Comparing the monetary risk between an SB-800 and say an 400/2.8 AF-I lens in terms of what may be an expensive paper weight is really not the best comparison. Looking through the posts in this thread, consensus, apart from Shun, is that you need not be more sceptical about buying a used flash than anything else second hand.

    • Like 1
  3. Heimbrandt: Lovely shot, but pedantically I think that's a greenfinch, not a goldfinch. Although I have very limited credentials as a twitcher. (More photos of Staines-based big white ducks possibly coming when I get to download some images...)

    Thanks - and yes, it is a greenfinch. I though of one but wrote the other’s name...

     

    Hope to see those ducks in a coming Nikon Wednesday.

  4. Which 70-200/2.8 do you have? There are three Nikkors and they have improved notably by each new version.

     

    The AF-S 851,8 is a very good lens. I liked it very much but did not use it enough to have it justify its place in the bag. Even though it is an FX lens it does not feel bulky. Why not look at your photos taken with the 70-200 and check EXIF data for which focal lenght you would have most use for.

     

    When I shot DX, I really liked the AF-S 10-24 mm and I too encourage you to check it out. I am not sure there are many DX wide-angle primes to choose from.

  5. I wanted wide but stil a lens that could take a normal filter, so I got the 16-35/4 VR. Since I never looked at the 18-35G, I will not comment further on it than I prefer 16 mm to 18 mm.

     

    Build quality is better than the 24-120/4 VR since it is an internal zoom mechanism. VR is nice to have and does a fine job. Personally, I do not value VR that high on such short focal lenghts as I do on tele photo lenses. I have used it on the D610, D800 and D800E and I find it produces good results.

     

    Admittedly, I have looked at the 14-24/2.8 but its front element and shorter zoom range makes me content with what I have.

  6. Shoot against the light when testing it. Such marks may render the lens more prone to flair. Make sure the zoom action is smooth as it has taken a few hits.

     

    Regarding price, Shun has a good point about its resale value.I will only add that you should also consider the trade-in value. It may well be that many dealers will not even make an offer for it, which is a signal of how badly even minor damage (that may not even show in the photos) hurts resale value. The seller may have failed to trade it in. If so, perhaps you can lower the price even more (granted you cannot detect the damage in the photos).

    • Like 1
  7. I have both a wired Nikon remote (and had an infra red ML-L3) but my preference is a cheap Viltrox 2,4GHz radio operated remote. It works with all Nikons with the 10 pin connector and the other modern DSLRs. Range is so good I never think about it. Excellent for everything from macro to shooting from a raised monopod.
  8. Do you really need a case for buying a new toy (sorry, meant tool..)? I agree that new glass would make a noticeable difference and would be worth considering as a starting point.

     

    Am I correct in assuming the difference in AF on the D4 and D800/E and D4S and D810 where more noticeable than they are today between the D5, D500 and D850? I know most reviewers have concluded the D5 has a faster and more reliable AF than the D850, but I do not interpret the differences as being as big as the complaints about the older generations of D8X0 and D4/S implies. In other words, I have not seen that many complaints about the shortcomings of the D4S's and D4's AF as those of the D810 and D800/E.

     

    I ask because while the D850 could be an expensive one camera alternative to adding a D500, a used D4 or D4S would also meet the OP's four requirements for sports.

  9. rodeo_joe|1, I do not mind manual mode. Somehow my friend does and since he is far from alone in this day and age, I think it is a good thing that you can set flash ratios in TTL mode. Nikon's Flash Value Lock feature is helpful as it can lock in the flash output from the last exposure and keep it for the rest of the shoot. Godox also has a feature that can take a TTL value and transfer it to a manual value.
  10. I use a SB700 with the same set Yongnuo's and there is absolutely no reason to get other transmitters...

     

    True, I did note note it was an old thread, so my comment was in reply to the OP. Sorry if that caused any confusion.

     

    Andrew, it appears to me that the Yongnou does what the Godox does. I got the Godox XT1 but a friend got the XPro for the better interface. I got the XT1 for its hot shoe, but I should have realised I would not use it... My friend’s plans involves mixing his SB-800 with a Godox monolight using iTTL CLS on both (on a D850). My usage is either the SB-800(s) alone or with my old monolight(s). Both Godox triggers handle groups A-E, HSS, power zoom and allow you to mix iTTL CLS, manual flash (with either remotely adjustable output or studio strobes/old manual only flashes triggered via the PC sync connector) and the entire Godox range (camera mount and studio strobes) on iTTL CLS anyway you want. The system also doubles as a remote trigger for your camera (although I cannot ge T mode to work, normal release mode works). If you are still in the market for a radio based system, it is worth looking at.

  11. I am sorry you cannot get your triggers to work the way you want.

     

    I can recommend Godox X1N or XPro transmitters. Both offer IR AF assist light, full 2.4 GHz radio controlled CLS TTL (you can set groups and ratios) and manual mode. I use the X1N and receivers with my two SB-800. It wil also work with the SB-700. Everything CLS works with the addition that the link is 2.4 GHz radio.

     

    A set with a transmitter and a reciever is about USD 80-85.

     

    I believe Adorama also offer Godox products under the name Flashpoint.

  12. I have read about it regarding the AF-S 300 F4 here before in a couple of threads, which is not enough to conclude it is a common problem.

     

    I have also noted that the AF-S 17-35 and AFS 28-70 seem to figure relatively more often in these discussions, however they are also more common lenses to begin with.

  13. I had a D80, that I got with the 18-55VR. The lens was extremely plastic and had a real cheap feel to it. However, it did produce good results on the D80. It costs about filter money used. On the more modern higher resolution bodies, it may not hold up that well, but it is perfectly fine on the D80.

     

    I also bought the Nikon AF-S 10-24 and loved it. I loved it on the D7000 too. The lack of VR made me sceptical before I got it, but not something I ever thought of when actually using the lens. I can highly recommend it for DX. Should you later decide to upgrade the camera, you then have a wide-angle zoom that will hold up.

     

    While I do not think you will find the 35 mm wide enough, the 35/1.8 DX is a very strong performer for the money.

     

    If 18 mm is wide enough, the 18-105 VR is as good as the more expensive options on the D80. It held up fine too on the D7000. If 16 mm is what you want, the 16-85 VR is worth looking at.

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