felix_ing

Hi there,

I remember reading responds by other members that when shooting with crop

sensor, the hand-heldable speed = 1 / {focal length x crop factor)?

I was doing some thinking when I was commuting home just now and wondered, the

factor in "crop factor" only does the cropping, so, shouldn't hand-heldable

speed be the same as 1 / focal length on FF?

My rationale is that, it's just like taking pic with a FF THEN cropping it

later, thus the shutter speed should remain the same?

Comments?

Explainations?

Cheers.

Hi,

Quick question, will the 1 series AF better in case of a backlit subject (low

contrast, will better glass help?)? If it indeed does, is that because of the

increased number of AF sensors or is that because of an increase of the AF

points' sensitivity?

Please advise.

Thanks.

Hi,

I've recently shot the L'oreal Fashion Week in Toronto using:

30D + 24-70mm on monopod (poor choice of lens = yes, but I needed to cover

some backstage so needed the wide end...and 24-105 wasn't available for rental

blah blah blah and I didn't want to rent 2 lenses; shot in M-mode, AI servo,

highspeed (5fps) mode, ISO 1000, 1/200 @ f/4-ish, portrait orientation, with

top AF point selected (in portrait orientation)--> should I have used "auto-AF

selection"?

I find that it was hard to track models at times and that images aren't as

sharp as I'd like them to be. So my question is, since the center AF point is

a cross-type and others are not (hence difficulities tracking models), can I

use center AF point to track models (will be aimed at crotch area of garment,

so garment will be in focus, hopefully), stopped down to around f/5.6 and get

their faces in focus?

In such distance am I safe to say that the models faces and their crotch are

at the same focus plane?

Anyone have shot runways care to share the setting that worked best for you?

Also, anyone used the extended ISO3200 in real life situation? How do you find

the noise?

Much appreciated.

Cheers

Giampi, it was right-up-the-figure-close, retested today, things got weird above ISO 1000ish.

I reshot the same stuff today with some available sunlight, tried to have ambient reading under so that the flash output's all that matter, it worked much better for some reason today.

Upon further testing, I conclude that:

1) the flash starts to blow things out above ISO 1000

2) using P mode gives more consistant and acceptable results

3) screw the weird flash metering (or not publishing how E-TTL II works exactly for us to learn), Canon, but thanks for digital photography (LCD playback!)

Let's play guess how many lights/softboxes were used...

From the reflection on the bottles in lower lefthand corner...looks like 6 were used? Is that necessary? Hence >>1/800 at f/8 @ ISO 6400 means there is enough light available to shoot 1/90 at f/5.6 @ ISO 400. That's a lot of light, even w/o an IS lens.<<

Hi,

I was just going through all of my pictures and I realized that, it seems to

me that my pictures are less sharp since attaching the handstrap to my 30D.

I shoot wide open, so 1.8 with the 50mm and 2.8 with the 24mm.

With the 50mm, handheld w/out handstrap, 1/30, I was able to get great

sharpness.

With the 24mm, handheld w/ handstrap, only under specific circumstances may I

achieve the same sharpness.

Now would you say that because I have the handstrap snugly, thus every minute

vibration is thus amplified and transferred when shooting? I've also invested

in a Manfrotto shoulder brace, and doesn't seem to improve much except I feel

like it's more stable, but the results do not show any significant difference.

Please advise.

Thanks.<div></div>

Definitely BS, notice the DigicII processor...

It's like advertising the "next" intel mac...with Pentium P4 processor.

I consider PMA as the holi-day (holy day) for all Canon (and other camera manufactures') fans

ha, I didn't know what it stands for as well!) Oh I can't wait to see what'll be released...um...maybe EOS "3D"?! or EOS 1Ds camera phone (wouldn't that be awesome? to compete with iphone?!)

PMA could stand for...

Photo Maniacs' Association?

Psychotic Moronic Announcements?

the list goes on...

Just read the fine prints on the Canon Rebate form, and realized that it's

only valid for Americans.

Anyone know if such rebates are available for Canada? If so, when does it

usually happen?

Thanks.

For my purposes digital would be the preferred choice since it does cut down on the steps compared with film (you want almost instant turnover with clients).

I own both the EOS 3 and 30D, I have to say, comparing my slides and d-pic shot recently during a trip, even from expired slides (despite the slight shift in color) I believe I still got better results from the awesomely-built EOS 3.

If you go to any store that carries both, just compare and you can tell the build-difference: the EOS 3 feels better, despite its noisy shutter, it sounds sexy still (in my opinion). Oh, not to mention, focus-point sensitivity, look into that to see what will better serve your purposes.

What I mean is this (which hugely depends if my recollection is correct - being that f-stops is calculated based on length of lens / opening of aperture) : say if both lens having the same aperture opening, say a 50mm diameter, but because one lens has a longer lenth, say 200mm vs a 100mm (hence f/4 vs f/2), then will we get the same depth of field?

Or as I'm gathering from the above answers, f-stops are absolute numbers, being that an f/2.8 will have the same depth of field with all lenses?

Hi,

Recalling years ago when I began photography, I remember reading something

about the f-number is the ration between lenght of the lens and the size of

aperture size (correct me if I'm wrong).

This got me thinking: how does the depth of field compare between f/2.8L and

f/4L lenses (i.e. 24-70mm f/2.8L USM v.s. 28-105mm f/4L IS USM)? (clearly

f/2.8 will still be a faster and more expensive lens)

What do owners of such lens(es) think?

Thanks.

Does the sweetspot of the lens unique to each copy?

Or is it "universial" to each lens design?

(links to sweetspot of lenses please?)

Thanks

Hi there,

I was just wondering if using different ISO settings in the same environment

will result in different DR. (i.e. improved DR using some "optimal" ISO during

any particular environment.)

Cheers

yea...thanks for all your comments, I just thought I knew my equipments enough and so I'm just being anal and try to push the boundary a bit further and wondering if it's the equipment that's holding me back...

apparently I can do way more with this camera is what I gathered from your responses. any "standard" way of testing if I have a good copy for everything? 30D, Lens etc etc.? Thanks.

(and no, I don't get offended...but let's try to be more constructive...I know how to shoot M and RAW...but perhaps there's something missing thus leading to my "problems")

I'm suspecting AF's off...despite my effort at setting hand-held-able speed (when tripod is not an option), I don't get sharp images anymore.

I do remember when I first got the primes, they did give me good results...come to think of it...

Now how do I check if anything's off (sensor / lens) in terms of my gear's ability to focus properly?

Given that the Digic3 DSLR will be out soon, I'm wondering what would be a

better investment.

I currently have saved up enough to purchase one L-zoom, still debating if I

should get the 24-70L, 24-105L IS or 70-200L IS...should I get an L to go with

my 30D,

or,

Would you suggest that I stick to my 24 f2.4 / 50 f1.8 (both non-L) and

upgrade my 30D (which I purchased just in the summer) to the new FF (2D/3D-->

i doubt they'll call it 3d...since ppl might think it actually shoots 3d

pics?/4D)?

The reason I raise such question is that I'm not too happy with the quality of

the pic, i.e. the resolution (whether it's optical / sensor-related I'm not

sure) is rather poor (the 70-200L IS + xt did quite good compared to my

combo).

So would a new sensor solve my problem or would an L lens does the trick?

Also, if you suggest getting a digic3-DSLR, would you trade in the 30D

(perhaps to help paying for half an L) or leave it as a backup (I'm making

money with my photography, so I'd say having a backup's nice?)?

Thanks.

Cheers.

Giampi,

I understand that Manual and ETTL-II are seperate modes on any of the EX flashes.

The issue remain is that the handheld meter can read flash as a percentage of the total available light, so if this is the case then all I have to do is to set the camera according to the reading (the ratio was set as desired), but this setting did give me overexposure.

Therefore I'm confused as to the accuracy of handheld vs internal lightmeter (yes, the light sensitive dome was parallel and pointing at the lens' axis).

Giampi,

When I view the pic at <100%, the color noise / CA is totally visible. Then when I enlarge it at 100%, camera raw automatically adjust it so that the "original" problem disappeared. So I can't find a sample supporting my claim.

To clarify post:

1) focusing part: if camera shake is not an issue, then there should still be a plane of focus, even at f/1.8 (used 50mm f/1.8 but f/1.8 wasn't used), right?

2) I used 580EX as fill for shadow areas, set to manual. ETTL-2 gave unstable and unreliable results

Hi,

I'm also finding this prob:

Weird settings - whenever I'm in the "creative modes" (Av, Tv; safty shift

disabled), the metering is giving me crazy readings: i.e E.V. set to +1 but

meter giving me -1/3. It's making me do manual adjustments. Isn't the camera

supposed to help me adjust the other settings to compensate to achieve the

desired exposure?

Thx