Jump to content

tim_drake

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    219

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by tim_drake

    Pentax M 100mm vs 120mm vs 135 F3.5

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>I have read complaints that the 135mm F3.5 doesn't focus close enough. Just how close do these three lenses focus? Does anybody know how many aperture blades each lens has? Does anybody have a favorite of the three as far as image quality? Loads of Thanks, TD</p>

    <p > </p>

     

    Question to Pentax K7 users.

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p >To summarize the original question then, the built in "Three-shot in-camera HDR capture" does work then to improve jpegs but nothing to the level of out of camera post processing and this may be a plus for those who rather be out in the fields rather than sitting at a computer. Thanks for all the replies. TD</p>

    Buying a medium format TLR camera.

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p >I have both the Rolleicord and the Diacord. I personally like the focusing on the Diacord better. To me the ergonomics on the Rolleicord feels like a left handed camera. On a tripod the Rollei feels ok but I don’t like to hand hold it. As to the glass, I would say the Diacord is a bit smoother in out of focus areas and equally as sharp as the Xenar. </p>

    Most underated classic camera

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Diacord, Kallofex, Konica Ft-1. If I don't tag my Provia 100f, I can't tell if the the film was shot with my Rolleiflex 3.5E, the Diacord, or the Kalloflex. None of my classic Canon, Pentax, or Minolta glass out performs my Hexanon lenses and the Ft-1 motor drive makes my Canon T70 sound and feel like a mistake.</p>

    My Kowa Kalloflex siekosha-mx

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p >In reviewing the results of my serviced Kalloflex vs my serviced Rolleif;ex 3.5e., at f16 , it’s a tie. Shooting Provia 100f, on a tripod, same scene and exposures, the Kalloflex is equally as sharp with great color as the Rolleiflex. Weakest point of the Kalloflex is the tripod mount, offset forward, and not stable with an Arca plate. Until I modify an Arca plate for it, I’ll use a cable release. Also my Rolleiflex with a Maxwell screen is much brighter. Regards, TD</p>

    TLR vs Folding

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>My least expensive tlr, a Ciroflex $15.00, is sharper than my most expensive folder, a Super Ikonta III. TLRs don't have the lens to film plane alignment problems folders have. I am a tripod-landscape shooter and the size and weight of the Mamiya tlrs is no problem, in fact I grab them much more frequently than my Rolleiflex 3.5E.</p>

    Mamiya C220 and Rolleicord

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p >Your uncle is obviously one cool dude to have both the C220 and a Rolleicord. Film has definitely succeeded better for me in doing night photography than digital. The 120 format is my most used unless there is no wind and then I’ll set up my Ebony 4x5. Night photography comes in loads of different styles and subjects and you didn’t really state what kind you are interested in. So first start with two books, “The Complete Guide to Night & Low-Light Photography by Lee Frost” and “Handbook for Star Trackers by Jim Ballard.” Check Amazon.com for both. The Mamiya TLRs along with the Pentax 67 and the Koni Rapid Omega are my favorite winter night cameras because of the flat film plane travel. The Rolleicords and most other TLRs take a 90 degree bend which is not good when you’re out for hours in 20 degree weather. So you need a heavy tripod like a Studex , I prefer Arca mount plates, a light source such as a flash or hand held spot light, and of course a shutter release cable. For film see if you can find some now discontinued Kodak 160T on eBay that has been refrigerated, if not my film choices are Kodak 64T or Kodak E200. The trick in color night photography is to find away to keep the sky from going green and the tungsten film is the ticket here. Another option is to use a tungsten filter like Hoya’s FL-DAY. For Star Trails, lock your shutter open, set your f stop at say f8 paint your subject with light, then open your aperture all the way and give it at least 30 minutes to several hours. For bright non moving stars build a star tracker as outlined in Jim Ballard’s book. I find clear cloudless new moon nights the best for night photography. If I start early in the night after the stars are clearly out I seem to get better blue and less green in the sky. Good luck and don’t forget the bug repellant. Regards, TD</p>

    My Kowa Kalloflex siekosha-mx

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p >I have two Kalloflexes. The lens seems to be so good that I am testing it against my Rolleiflex 3.5 E this weekend. Also in the test is a Mamiya C220 with an 80mm S lens. Last winter I thinned out my tlr collection but the Kalloflexes stayed. If you find yours in need of service I would recommend Paul Ebel Lens Services in Wisconsin. Hope yours is as sharp as mine are. Regards, TD</p>

    After you are gone, your cameras....

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p >My wife and two children love photography. Some of my vintage cameras have already disappeared on permanent loan. My daughter living in Alaska has enough great images to publish a book. My son just did a tourist trip thing to Italy only taking a light meter and a Minolta Autocord. My wife’s wild flower photo collection surpasses anything I have ever accomplished. I can pass away knowing that at least for the next generation my cameras and photos will be well appreciated. Regards, TD</p>

    Question about Time Exposure on Pentax 67II

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p>My Pentax 67II is 300 miles away right now but as I remember I always wound the film, pulled the time exposure lever out, flipped up the mirror, and then hit the shutter locking it open with a shutter release cable. I don't think I ever have tried winding the film after pulling out long time exposure lever but it seems it should work either way. You should be able to test it without any film in the camera. Regards, TD</p>

    Manfrotto Quick Release Plates

    in Pentax

    Posted

    <p >My first ball head was a Manfrotto Proball 468RC with a RC2 clamp on a Studex Performance tripod. The RC2 just wouldn’t hold my Pentax 67II sturdy enough so I converted it to a RC4 and that was worse. I think the rubber pad just added to much give. Since the problem didn’t seem to be in the 468 ball head, I then converted it to an Arca Swiss quick release plate with a Kirk mount and problem solved. This not only holds my Pentax 67II but my Ebony 45s without a problem. I now also have another Studex tripod with an Arca Swiss Monoball head and I think the Manfrotto 468 is just as good. On my Pentax 67II and 645N I use Really Right Stuff custom for Pentax Arca mounts. The Arca Swiss mounts are made by numerous companies and come in countless sizes and shapes. I think there is a good chance that eventually you’ll end up going Arca so why not start there. On my carbon fiber tripod I have a Novoflex Magic Ball head and a Novoflex Qbase for Arca Plates. I really like the Qbase but doubt that I would buy the ball head again. Even though you might have a light weight camera now you never know when the big camera bug might bite and there is no such thing as having a too heavy duty ball head and quick release mount. Regards, TD</p>

    To the folding cameras experts !

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p >I purchased a Franka Solida IIL with a Xenar from Mr. Kreckel in hopes the Xenar would be close to the Xenar in my Rolleicord Vb but not even close. The camera was a dud. I also had a Perkeo II with the Color Skopar that was Clad by Mr Kreckel and it had a sharp lens with great color. I say had because my daughter claimed it as hers after examination of some Provia 100F through a Rodenstock loupe. I think there is a lot of image variation between different specimens of the same camera in these old folders. </p>

    <p > </p>

×
×
  • Create New...