jean-louis llech

Did you calculate the focal length multiplier of a 6x7 lens (56 x 69.5 mm) with a 36 x 48 mm ZD back ? About 2.25x.<br>

With a film, the 43 mm is nearly equivalent to a 21 mm in 24x36 format. With a ZD back, the same 43mm wide angle would be equivalent to a 48 mm in 24x36 format.<br>

Here is a leg of the G-1329 with white paint dots.<div></div>

The f/4 80mm Distagon exists. It is a 5 lenses/ 5 elements lens with leaf shutter (1/30s - 1/500s) for some cameras (Zeiss for Rollei) with focal plane shutters.

I use a Gitzo Carbon Fiber G-1329 tripod, and I recently exchanged the rapid column for a levelling base.<br>

It is important to choose a 3 sections tripod, because the sections are larger, and more rigid that on 4 sections.<br>

On each intermediate section, I painted a dotting line of 1 millimeter white dots every 5 centimeters. So, I can extend the three legs accurately at the wanted height.<br>

When I use a MF camera with waist level finder, I can set the tripod height exactly as I need.<br>

The recent Polaroid backs have 2 to 3 ISO settings to couple to the meter of the SL66SE.<br>

Concerning the Arca Swiss back, mechanicaly speaking, no problem at all.<br>

But the buyer will not be able to use the SL66-SE' metering system because these older Pola backs don't have any electrical contacts.<br>

Not an adaptation of the ZD back for the RZ67 (Pro-IID, of course). But an adapter for mounting the original ZD back on a RZ67.

Many thanks for this accurate answer, Martin. I hear this for the first time. I never had any problem with the SL66-SE spot cell.

Hi, Martin,<br>

<i>"i know that exactly this spot metering is known to be very often defective"</i> What do you mean exactly by that ? Do you say that it makes wrong measurements ? <br>

I use SE cameras, and I made several times crossed measurements with a Sekonic spotmeter. I never noticed a difference.<br>

Could you please explain ?<br>

Personnaly, I prefer the SE not only for the spot meter but also for the backs. I prefer them to the E-backs.<br>

About repairmen, I know Paepke, who is the second one ?<br>

Too many people believe that using a 35mm or DSLR camera as a metering cell exonerate them from learning the basic knowledge of light measurement.<br>

If you use a spotmeter or even a simple hand-meter you will understand the basics of film exposure, and you will know how to deal with shades and highlights.<br>

Otherwise, continue to use a fully automatic digital SLR, you will enjoy it, but avoid manual MF film cameras.<br>

If you think that a 15.8x23.6mm sensor is equivalent to a 56x68.4mm negative, use your DSLR.<br>

Of course don't forget to adapt the ISO sensitivity of your Nikon to the film you use in the RB67. If you use a 50 or 25 ISO film, just recalculate the metering results obtained with the D200 which stops to 100 ISO. That's easy to do.<br>

Don't forget too to use lenses with an equivalent focal length on both cameras, or convert the aperture/speed obtained through the Nikon lens on your Mamiya's lens focal length, angle of view....<br>

Don't forget to carry the D200 in your bag with the RB67. With a lens, it weights only 1kg or 1.2kg. Better to carry it that another RB67 lens.<p>

 

Or simply learn to measure light by yourself and buy a hand-held meter.

John,<br>

Barry Thornton, who died in 2003, was a great photographer, a great printer and technician. His book "Elements" deals more with prints. I think that the book by Barry Thornton that you quote is "Edge of Darkness".<br>

If you find it in a bookstore, buy it.<br>

Bruce,<br>

I use Rolleiflex 6x6, SLR and TLR, and 4x5" too. Each camera has its own use, and I buy and use the cameras I prefer. Don't worry about things which are none of your business.<br>

I don't have absolutely anything to justify. I do not see why I would. And I don't understand why you waste your time "insulting" these poor cameras. And lemon juice is full of vitamins. ;>)<br>

If you don't like some cameras, don't use them, that's so simple.<br>

But you are probably right : go on buying and selling "crappy cameras".<br>

<i>"The lenses before that were not as good."</i> Did you had one ?<br>

On SL66, all original lenses before 1972 already had a dual coating, and, thus were protected against flare.<br>

HFT is only useful on wide angle lenses, like the 40 or 50mm. First, many lenses, like the 30mm fisheye, the Distagons 40 FLE and 60mm only exist with HFT coating, becauses they were all produced after 1972.<br>

Many other lenses have a deeply recessed front lens, and, if you use a lens shade, flare is not a problem at all.<br>

Flash sync : Rollei made two (80mm and 150mm) lenses with leaf shutter : flash sync at all speeds.<br>

Concerning the mirror, it is an instant return system, with a pneumatic shock-absorber. It still has the reputation of being the best 6x6 mirror system concerning the lack of vibrations (Not a P67). Don't forget that there is also a mirror-lock-up lever.<br>

Last, I never had one repaired.<br>

Obviously, the camera disliked you too, Bruce. Can understand why. Probably not simple enough...<br>

Does it smell ?

Johan,<br>

Many people think exactly the contrary. First, there are no <i>"obvious difficulties with rangefinder/TLR"</i> People who say that, most of the time, never tried one, or didn't try long enough to appreciate them.<br>

I currently use waist level finders, and groundglass focusing on MF or LF cameras. I use too rangefinder focusing (with a viewfinder for framing and composition). Both are very accurate and most friendly looking for people who are photographied. Nothing is more aggressive that "aiming" through a prism on a SLR. Don't you think that people can consider a SLR in the same manner that a gun ?<br>

Using a waist level finder on a TLR looks more like a humble and respectful attitude.<br>

Groundglass focusing and framing gives a wider field of view, while TTL focusing confines any photographer in the angle of view of the lens. Now, when I think to that, I realize that I did not throw a glance at anything directly through a lens since more that 20 years : TLR, SLR with waist level finder, field camera with groudglass, and rangefider/viewfinder.<br>

I have practically forgotten what TTL means.<p>

 

Brian,<br>

You write : <i>"Even GG viewing, whether waist-level or on the back of a view camera, has its problems - sun glare and the need to hide under a hood to see the GG image clearly"</i>.<br>

That was never a problem : did you often see a photographer looking through a bare groundglass on a view camera or on a TLR ?<br>

All TLR have a folding viewing hood which is a part of the camera. Concerning view or field cameras, there are also protective folding hoods for viewing, and, on a tripod, a focusing cloth is still useful.<br>

I can assure to you that I never saw any sun glare under a focusing cloth.<br>

;>)

Diego, what do you think of TLRs : 6x6, square format, manual focus.<br>

Do you absolutely need a zoom lens ?<br>

Anthony<br>

The model on your link is exactly the same Fotodiox adapter that Michael's link...<br>

Evan,<br>

Patricio says that <i>it works perfectly in Automatic mode</i>.<p>

 

Before giving it for repair, please, try what I wrote earlier.<br>

With these adapters, Hasselblad lenses can be mounted on a 645AF, but all automatisms are lost : no autofocus, no auto-exposure.

Patricio,<br>

Using a CF lens in C mode with a focal plane shutter camera needs simple but accurate operations. You probably <u>remove your finger too quickly</u> from the release button after the exposure.<br>

When you are in C mode, <i>keep your finger on the release button depressed as long as you don't hear the sound of the focal plane shutter</i>.<br>

You already know that, when using the C mode, the leaf shutter remains closed after the exposure, and, consequently, the screen remains dark until you have rewound the camera<br>

Willem,<br>

Personnaly, I use a Rolleiflex SL66-SE.<br>

Just try it.<br>

Well, you like 6x6 square format, and you need a MF compact camera, that you can bring with you ?<br>

Why don't you buy a Rolleiflex TLR with a 2,8/80 mm ?<br>

I know nothing more compact in this format, and if you are a Blad user you know the pleasure of composing and framing with a viewing hood.<br>

First, I need to know which model of Mamiya 645 and which prism you have. There are many Mamiya 645 models, with different prisms, each one having its own viewing system. If I don't know that, I am unable to help you further.<br>

If you buyed your 645 used, did you check if a diopter correction lens was already on the eyepiece of the prism ? If there is one, try to remove it by pulling it downward.<br>

Otherwise, if your 645 is an AF model with the prism integrated in the camera body, there is on the left side of the prism a diopter adjustment dial.<br>

Generally speaking, with many cameras, if you wear glasses, it may be sometimes difficult to see the whole groundglass.<br>

Then, the best solution, if you can't see the entire groundglass, is to buy a diopter correction lens adapted to your sight, and remove your glasses when using your camera. That's what I do most of the time with the folding viewing hood and lupe. I will soon buy a diopter correction lens for the prism.<br>

I will try to help you more when I will know the exact 645 model.<br>

Best regards.<br>

Vlad,<br>

I searched on Pbase for some pictures made with a Mamiya RB or RZ with a shift 75mm. I found none. But I found some very interesting pictures of urban landscapes and buildings made with a <a href="http://www.pbase.com/tianmou/bulidingsocial_landscape">wide 50mm lens</a>.

A photographer who had one time into his hands a 6x9 or a 4x5" transparency, or a 6x6, 6x9 or 4x5" black and white negative could ask this question : "What are some reasons to purchase a DSLR in addition to my MF ?"